Thursday, March 12, 2020

Sapa Trek #2, The Valley

We continued on, generally downhill, to pass through a couple villages...
Water...water buffalo

Nearly all in a row (there's always one)

Spring



Hydroelectric


Vlad the Impaler haystack...haven't seen one of those in a while

Irrigation via bamboo trunk

Selling tubs off the motor scooter; which was equipped with a PA system

"Traditional clothes for rent"

Mail delivery

Here Vicki stimulated the local economy

Dogs in the villages...all impressively well-behaved

Half traditional, half modern house

Don't look too close...here, a pig has been sacrificed to the ancestors, informing
them of an impending wedding...and more ancestors to join them, eventually


Preparations for the wedding, to occur next day

Cinnamon/cardamon incense sticks, drying

We took the low road

Middle school (partly residential), closed until end of February in view of the
coronavirus threat (as we left, Vietnam had had 16 occurrences, all
recovered); May said her 11-year-old son was beyond boredom and looking
forward to school as never before

People's Assembly Hall...not full capitalism (!) yet, but well on its way

Interesting home/restaurant/water feature

Our lunch that day was at a home-stay; a simple bowl of rice with pork and
chicken and veggies; after the culinary extravaganzas of the past few days, it
was a welcome relief

In the home stay

A French couple was checking in..."where's the ice machine?" I asked

Us, there, at the conclusion of trek #2

Sapa Trek #2, The Heights

After a luxurious private breakfast at the hotel, May met us for our second Sapa trek, a downhill walk of 10k (more like 10 miles) to see a couple of the valley villages. The walk took the better part of the day, and so I'll divide it between the heights and the villages.

Not in English, too
 
Our trail, below


Sights along the way

Note bridge at left

The valley we are headed for

Looking back to the outskirts of Sapa

Vicki and May by a wall of ferns

Increasing farm-stays and home-stays along the way

Fork in the road; we took the low road


On the bridge: motorcyclistes carrying bricks across the bridge 




Into the valley now

Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Sapa Trek #1

"Trek" as we understand it is a multi-day walk. We have done a few. What they call treks in Sapa can be as short as a day-hike, and that is what we opted for on this visit. The first day was from Sapa down to Cat Cat village and the waterfalls there. Mostly downhill. I would have preferred entirely downhillBut it was only 5k, or maybe 5 miles, and the taxi back to the hotel was there waiting for us at the end.

Perhaps the best part of our Sapa experience was 
our guide, May, a 29-year old Hmong single mother, 
whom we had engaged through the tour company; 
she met us at the hotel upon arrival; she understood 
our interests were mostly cultural and not athletic; 
her English, learned from tourists she said, was the 
best we encountered in Vietnam



Our hike is in there somewhere, down to Cat Cat villages; 
several hundredsteps, hard on Vicki's knees, but she held up

Hazy, even in the afternoon

Construction everywhere in Sapa, from small to large scale

Curiosities along the way

More good fortune: Vicki's articulated walking stick, purchased 
last summer in darkest East Anglia, finally gave out in Sapa; but 
for 6U$D she found an even better replacement in this market 
stall; probably very close to where they're manufactured

Valley view

Us, there

One of the things Vietnamese tourists do in Sapa is to rent indigenous 
peoples' costumes and do selfies; we'll see more of that 


Rice is a one season crop in Sapa; everything would be more
green in July; and hotter

An up and down world

Indigo, in someone's garden; May knew all the plants

On a mountain-side, terraced world, retaining walls are everything

Water feature: fish farm

Returning from labors on the mountain-side above

Cat Cat Falls

Divergent footwear for the trail



Traditional bridge construction

Less traditional (welding in center)

Upper falls

Could be a scene from Maine, or the Appalachians, or the
Rockies, no? OK, ignore the bamboo

Us, there, again

French outpost from 1922

Just as we arrived, there was a traditional dance...more sticks
and baskets...

Selfies in costume

Among several water wheels at the falls

And a water-powered mortar/pestle grinding machine...
the old fashioned way