Tuesday, June 26, 2018

On To The Balkans

One of the advantages of traveling as we do is that we can change our minds and change directions. Our only big constraints are the Schengen Agreement (the 90-day visa thing) and airline reservations. When we "planned" this year's Italian campaign, we figured we'd do some of the south, Sicily, Malta, and then head up north to the Alps or the Dolomites when the weather got too warm. Stay there in Courmayeur or Chamonix, places we know and love. Hike and climb. Enjoy great scenery. Eat great food, whether Italian or French. That was our plan.

Somehow it changed: the allure of the untried, the unknown. Friends, fellow travelers, have extolled the Balkans, and, although we have done much of eastern Europe, we'd never ventured beyond Trieste. So, mostly wanting something new and exciting, we decided we'd head into the Balkans, hitting the high spots of Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Hertzegovina. We had to add a few countries to our credit card approval list and check our vehicle insurance, but otherwise it was a "go." We'd find an English travel guide somewhere along the way. (We didn't). Turn right at the top of the Adriatic, turn right again and head south. Hope that the Italian TIM phone/data plan would continue to work. (Some places yes, some places, no).

So we bid adieu to Prato Smeraldo, hit the Gran Anulare Ricordo, by-passed Rome, and headed north, passing many favorite and wonderful places, vowing to return, stopping for the night at Terme Abano, near Padua. And then back on the road the next morning, braving the northern Italian truck traffic, and indeed turning right, over the Adriatic, and then right again, into Slovenia. Determined to get on with it, we drove right on to Split, Croatia, where our Balkan adventure began.
So there we are, over Trieste (we think), the Balkans on the left, Italy on the
right, passing into Slovenia...

And so what is the first thing you'd see? Porky's, of course

And there's Porky himself; turns out we'd see many more such establishments

Discouraged but undeterred, we carried on

We are apparently not the first RV to enter the Balkans; by the time we reached
Split, we were commenting we'd never seen so many RVs except in Arizona
and southwestern France



Most interestingly, the Adriatic's eastern coast is lined by large picturesque
islands, each with a stunning coastline itself

Above Split, about to descend to the coast and the Split RV park

Galleria Borghese, 2018

Somehow we always seem to save the Galleria Borghese for last or almost last. Always want to leave on a high, fire on the up-roll....
Walking from Termini to our bus stop..."And in English too..." Shouldn't this
be "balcia e cavalca"? or at least "Kiss-o e ride-o"?

In the old Alberto Sordi shopping mall, at a bookstore,
looking for a book; turns out the best selection is at the big
bookstore in Termini

Pines of the Villa Borghese; love the old Toscanini version

The Galleria Borghese; always over-run

You can breeze through much of the 16th-17th century
Italian painting; either not that great or so poorly displayed, 
like this Cranach, as to be un-viewable

Nice Botticelli, Venus with Cupid and Psyche; wait, no...

The real draw is all the Berninis, of which nearly all are KOs

The walls and ceilings and floors are pretty amazing in their own right

Aeneas and his dad, escaping Troy

Bernini, Truth

Also more Caravaggios than any other location

A way better St. Jerome than the one we didn't see in Malta

And this fairly incredible St. John (I triple dog swear I am
not making this up)

St. John with fruit

The illusionary stuff alone is worth the price of admission

A great hall filled with sculpture and Roman mosaics 

Scenes from the gladiatorial school 

Must watch A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum again

Canova's Venus, actually Napoleon's sis, Pauline Bonaparte

I think Bernini was the best of sculptors, despite being
Baroque all the time; but his David does not compare
favorably with either Donatello's or you know who's

The best of the best, Bernini's Apollo and Daphne


As you entered the room, originally, this is what you saw
initially...no hint of what was going on










































Ceiling painting above the statue

As I said, the place is worth visiting just for the illusionary stuff

Everything you see here, as they say, is paint

"Golden rules of civility..." how we miss them...

Return To Rome: St. Paul's Without the Walls, 2018

On Monday the 11th Alitalia got us back to Fiumicino in good order and the metro system got us by way of Ostiense back onto the familiar B line to Laurentina and the bus back to the Emerald Meadow and Le Duc. We spent the rest of the day unpacking and re-rigging the rig. While in Malta we had made reservations to visit the gallery at the Villa Borghese on Wednesday, so Tuesday became another administrative day. It so happens that my favorite lavanderia (washateria) in Rome is at the St. Paul's stop on the Metro. And so while the clothes wash and dry and fold, I walk over to visit what is still my favorite papal church in Rome. (Have I ever mentioned that one time when I was typing "papal" the texting program changed it to "Paypal"? E-indulgences?). Other than the fact that St. Paul's is old, colossal, and beautiful, tourists almost never make out here beyond the Aurelian walls. Except when doing the wash.


Eighty; count 'em






Saturday, June 23, 2018

Malta, 18: Adieu U Nirringrazzjak, Malta!

We spent the evening reflecting on our excellent choice and our excellent visit to Malta...and packing, and looking out off the balconies...
World speed boat racing...



















A confirmation processional at the interesting church over there...wait, Vicki
says confirmation is maybe Methodist, so this is probably first communion;
or somesuch; anyway, they had a noisy parade around the block



















Nightfall on Balutta Bay



















They (who?) say you should always leave something for next time...in our case,
apart from several more megalithic sights, that would be Malta's two
Caravaggios...he did some time here, trying to become a Knight, which he
did, until getting into trouble again; and he left his largest painting here, his
Decollation of St. John...signing his own name in the puddle of the Baptist's
blood...





















Also a St. Jerome; we missed these because we failed to read the cathedral's
hours...who would'a thunk a famous cathedral with major art in a destination
city would have closed on Saturday at noon and remained closed until Monday?!
Oh well, the world probably does not need another comment from me on Mr.
Fruity Butt Pants' framing issues (which are again apparent with the St. John)





















As with The Maltese Falcon, I spent considerable time
looking for the local delicacy...and found it finally as we
passed through the duty-free stores at the airport Monday
morning



























Enjoying a last few minutes of luxury at the airport lounge, Vicki demonstrates
triclinium dining for our grand-daughter; meanwhile I am enjoying a last few
Negronis...it's been a great holiday!