Friday, May 18, 2018

Palermo Street Scenes

After the market, we visited the Palermo cathedral, then a variety of main and side streets. It was a beautiful Sunday, everyone was out, and, Mothers' Day here too, the restaurants were packed
There's a church on every street, sometimes two; or three

Some well worth looking at

Italians have a different set of values which it comes to the exteriors of their
buildings; unpainted plaster falling off old stones and mortar, external plumbing
and electric lines are the rule in the centro storico here; the facade might be
spruced up; maybe not

Do not leave your motor scooter outside overnight, even if chained to a bollard...

On an alley, nearing the cathedral; great old balconies

A half dozen matrons sitting in the alley, chatting, texting;
look straight through to see some of the cathedral sculpture

Palermo cathedral, mid-12th century, when the Normans took over; yes,
those Normans

Stern exterior

Bow

Chancel painting

Meridian

What meridians are good for

Much of the downtown is pedestrianized

Peering into the courtyard of a colossal old buillding

Lemoncello shoppe

Food cart

Random beautiful piazza

Puppet shoppe; among other things; puppets are big here; e.g., Pinocchio

Two intersecting pedestrianized main streets

1/4 of the Four Corners; ground zero Palermo


Evidently the Normans brought cannoli to Siciliy

Vlaams friteshuis!

Street scene

Not one of the better examples

Porta Nuova, 1589

Royal Palace

Royal palace fountain

Ballora Market

For Sunday, May 13th, Mothers' Day, we had planned on taking the bus up to Monreale, overlooking the city, to see the cathedral there, it's 12th century mosaics, its beautifully sculpted cloisters, and its great views of the city and coast. We got an early start--the cloisters close at 1:30PM on Sundays--but grossly overestimated the capacity Palermo's bus system to get us perhaps 15k in under 3 hours. Other than delays and heavy traffic, the main problem is that the Monreale bus, #389, known as Europe's most pick-pocket infested, only runs every 75 minutes. This to see probably the #1 tourist attraction in the area. The very limited public service obviously benefits the private concession, picking up at the same stop, that will carry you to Monreale and back for a mere 20E each. Seeing that we would not get to Monreale before the cloisters closed, we decided to spend the day in town, walking around, taking in such sights as appeared. Targets of opportunity. From the Royal Palace, which we'd see another day, we walked in the direction of the Ballaro Market, Palermo's large daily market that encompasses many streets. I can't say it was the biggest or best market we have seen, although it was certainly the most unstructured. We did buy some Sicilian sun-dried tomatoes, the best, and some pistachio pesto.
Unstructured




Not singing



Available by the kilo or ton

Sorry, Charlie; the Mediterranean has some big tuna, and April and May are the
time of the big run past Sicily; this is by far the largest fish head I have ever
seen at a fish market; and I have seen a few markets

Escargot guy

Zucchini langa; like an entire meter langa; adjoining item
unknown


Very, very large beans

Beets?

Wednesday, May 16, 2018

Palermo's Cappucin Catacombs: Warning! Nightmare Alert!

We all like to play dress-up, whether as adults—Halloween--or as children, with friends, siblings, playmates, dolls and toys. But what if you could play dress-up with corpses and cadavers, in a special and safe place, as the Cappucin monks did in Palermo, not all that long ago?! What a wondersome thing! And so it has been preserved, the Cappucin Catacombs, in some rightly dead part of the city, to which we ventured in the waning hours of our first day in the capital city. We had driven over through the miles and miles of tunnels and bridges to Palermo on May 12, after having taken a rest day May 11, after our Aeolian cruise. We found the appointed sosta, somewhere in the way west of Palermo, a truly chaotic city, on bus route 107. In the few hours of remaining daylight, we (Vicki) thought it would be really cool to see the dressed-up corpses and cadavers. I will not speculate upon the origin of this idea except to note that a recent Rickie Stevie blog post had dealt with the Cappucin Catacombs. He is working on a guide to Sicily. Soon, millions of American tourists will have this same wondersome experience! What a wondersome thought!