Saturday, August 15, 2015

Doullens And St. Pierre's

We stopped on the way from Amiens to Lille at the pretty and lively little town of Doullens. The aire de camping-cars there only has four places, but it is clean and quiet and close to everything. On one of my customary reconnaissance walks, I noticed the abandoned church of St. Pierre. If you're looking for an authentic 13th century Gothic fixer-upper church that it is really in relatively good shape, considering, this may be for you.
St. Pierre's parish church, apparently deconsecrated
















But not forgotten, at least by the monuments commission
















The roof appears largely intact, at least over the main arcade
















Building a porch and entrance may be something of a challenge;
plus there are hundreds of pigeons to relocate...but hey, how many
people do you know who have renovated a 13th century Gothic?
PS: the sign said 13th century, but it struck me as rather more
Romanesque...no pointy things in any of the windows or portals...

Amiens Cathedral, 2015

We visited Amiens Cathedral in 2013, and I did four posts on it. Among Gothic cathedrals, it's one of the three or four best and most famous, and of course we wanted to see it again on our return drive. I have reviewed my four previous posts...

http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2013/05/amiens-1.html
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2013/05/amiens-2.html
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2013/05/amiens-sculpture.html
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2013/05/amiens-out-takes.html

and promise not to do very many duplicate pix nor repeat bad jokes here.
"That's it! I've had it! No more pleading or interceding!"
















"Yeah, so how far did you walk with your severed
head?"





















The Maze, in full glory
















Nice carving in the choir
















Thus
















Blind triforia (in case you were wondering)
















"I guess this will be your last cathedral for a while..."

Abbey Church Of St. Ouen, 2

More pix from Rouen's 14th century abbey church of St. Ouen...
Chancel
















Chancel ceiling




















Elevation, windows and light




















A sampling of the windows, mostly saints and
biblical figures





















Thus




















Thus




















In the chevet
















One of the big roses
















More
















More
















And another




















Limestone blocks, loaded with flint...Normandy
















In the park outside, a statue of the Viking Rollo, the original
Duke of Normandy





















A few feet away, a huge runestone, a gift from the people of Copenhagen to the
people of Rouen; Viking solidarity















Abbey Church of St. Ouen, 1

We had never been to the abbey church of St. Ouen in previous visits to Rouen. It's a few blocks off the beaten path and presumably not high on the tourist itinerary. Besides, purist that I am, I would not normally have been attracted to yet another 14th century flamboyant. Would I have been wrong!

Although "only" an abbey church, St. Ouen is a particularly fine example of the theology/architecture of height and light. "God is light." Although not as high as, for example, Amiens, St. Ouen has far more light than any Gothic we have seen. A variety of features come together to emphasize the light. One is the white limestone material throughout. Another is the austerity, the relative lack of ornamentation inside. Most important, however, are the windows. St. Ouen realizes the Gothic ideal of maximizing glass. There are more than 4,300 square meters of glass. All of this 14th century original glass was removed prior to WWII and is back in place now. The triforium is glazed, and therefore the walls are glass nearly from the ground all the way to the roof. The windows themselves are huge and are only partially stained/painted, contributing again to maximizing the light, at least as compared with the high Gothics.
St. Ouen abbiale church; the abbey is gone; the building next door is Rouen's
Hotel de Ville

















South side view




















Looking up toward the central tower
















South-side nave; note the windows, floor to ceiling
















Remains of cloister, north-side
















Relatively minor sculpture...austerity...here the south door tympanum

















Nave view
















Nave view closer in
















Elevation...windows, windows, windows




















Standard 4-part ribbed ceiling in nave




















Crossing
















Stern and organ and rose window




















Transept




















Other transept



















At Pascaline, A Final French Meal

For lunch our second day Vicki chose a busy bistro, Pascaline, downtown. We got there somewhat early and enjoyed a leisurely lunch in a crowded old restaurant.
Vicki checks out the menu
















Remains of the terrine de canard (Vicki had the salad bits)
















My cuisine de cochon...
















Vicki's mijote de veau, sort of a veal stew
















Her raspberry tartlet
















Normally we order an entree and plat and a plat and dessert and
split the entree and the dessert; but I have become fond of ile
flottant and had to have my own


















Nice place, Normandy food mostly, and reasonable


Saint-Maclou

The second of Rouen's hat trick of famous late Gothics is Saint-Maclou parish church, only a couple blocks from the Cathedral. Maclou is a great specimen of flamboyant Gothic. Alas, it is open only a few days of the week and not the day we were there. Nonetheless, here are a few shots from the exterior.
Saint-Maclou




















Thus




















Judgement
















Hellish detail
















Excruciating Hellish detail
















Doors




















Holy Circumcision