Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Schokland Museum 2

Continuing our visit to a remarkable little museum...
Vicki touching actual mastodon parts















At least 7 foot tall Ice Age bear--Ursus Really
Horribilis




















Cast of neolithic human remains















Paleo tools















Neolithic settlement depiction















Neo foot print casts















Neo pottery















Largely intact Neo canoe















More recent archaeological finds















Wooden shovel



















Waders



















Mini sleigh















The usual mannequin diorama; we think it's an important part
of the museum experience to participate in these displays...
















Propeller from an RAF Lancaster bomber that came down in
the vicinity
















Not the only plane that came down in these parts...here, a
B-17E, whose crew hopefully walked away and were rescued
by Dutch Resistance

















Interior of the beautifully reconstructed little church















And finally, today's wedding photo shoot

Schokland Museum 1

Schokland was an island in the Zuider Zee, and the waxings and wanings of the North Sea since the middle ages enabled it to be variously a fishing village, a fortress, an abandoned fortress, a fishing village, a destitute fishing village, then, by royal order in 1859, an abandoned destitute fishing village. The sea was too dangerous and unpredictable. Prior to the middle ages (much prior), it was high, dry land, with much evidence of paleolithic and then neolithic human habitation, plus, earlier habitation by your standard Ice Age and post-Ice Age varmints...giant bears, sabre-tooth tigers, wooly mammouths, etc. Presently, Schokland, well inland, is home to the Schokland Museum, perhaps the smallest of all UNESCO World Heritage Sites, but the first of Netherands' many sites to be so recognized. It is a succinct but powerful statement of what the Zuider Zee was like, of the Zuider Zee Works, and of their aftermaths. It's a longer day trip from Amsterdam, but worth it in every respect. The 15 minute video presentation (in English too) is excellent.
In olden days, prior to 1932, it was here















Aerial view, nowadays, from which you can see the outlines
of the old island; in the north-east polder, north of Flevoland
(did you know that Flevoland was named after ancient Flevo
Lake, which was named after Caius Julius Flevo, a Roman
who explored and wrote about the area?)
















Another view, driving up, you can see the tiny island mass
rising above the sea (now grass)
















Entrance















Approaching the entrance to the tee-niny museum















Netherlands is flat partly because it is the estuary of the Rhine
and associated great rivers; and partly because the glaciers
from Scandinavia scoured the land; these are glacial erratics
from Norway

















Thus; amazing the things you find when "reclaiming" land















View of the museum; the church, a few house-structures, the
restaurant, the reception...
















Coastal artillery...the coast now way out of range















Ditto















Remnants from the old cemetery



















Important previous flood levels...it was the 1916 flood that
provided the impetus for the Zuider Zee Works; also the fact
that technology was now up to the task
















Shipwrecks, other archaeological sites in the immediate vicinity
of Schokland
















Start of the excellent video on Schokland and the Zuider Zee
(and in English, too)


Driving The Zuider Zee

If you are of my generation, you heard about the Zuider Zee, as I did, in elementary school. It is that southern arm of the North Sea that invades the Netherlands and whose wild ways flooded cities and towns and villages and killed hundreds of thousands over the centuries. Marken was an island in the Zuider Zee; now it's more or less an island in the Ijsselmeer (or more properly, the Markermeer), the vast fresh water lake that the Zuider Zee became when finally dammed off in 1932. A later and larger dam was constructed much further north in the mid-20th century. And amidst all this, land was created ("reclaimed"), specifically Flevoland, home now to nearly half a million people and untold millions of cows. We've seen the dikes and dams and waters on previous trips, but I wanted to see and learn more, specifically at the Schokland Museum, part of the northeast polder, north of Flevoland. Thus, our crossing.
Beginning the drive over the dam near Enthuizen; that's a concrete canal we're
driving under; everything has the lookof the massive engineering feat it was
















Pretty typical of the 30 or so mile road over the dam; that's the Markermeer on
the right; on the other side is the bigger part of the Ijsselmeer; boats and ships
everywhere















And now we are looking at reclaimed land, in the northeast polder, just north of
Flevoland; Flevoland itself amounts to somewhat less than 600 square miles

Monday, June 8, 2015

Alkmaar Without Cheese

So after the museum we strolled a bit around the largely pedestrianized old town, much of it dating to the 17th century. Not pictured: buying a cheese sampler plate. It was to be a day of street food.
Me, downing some Dutch sushi (pickled herring. with onions
and pickle)




















Really nice bicycle in a wine bar















Street scene



















Time for a frites-fix, so we stopped here



















And then, just outside the great church, Olie Bollen! Deep-fried spheres of dough,
filled with fruit, chocolate, whatever; we had not seen Olie Bollen since the 1967
Leon County Fair, in Tallahassee, FL; more street food!

















Centrum signage: rather more for bicycles than pedestrians















We now think that "Eten en Drinken" might be a chain















Moving right along, we are in Alkmaar's
Grote Kerk, another ex-Roman church that is
now excitingly stark; the timber barrel roof is
of interest, however





















As is the great organ



















As is this, a clock, high up on the ceiling right at the crossing; evidently so you
could check the time while raising your eyes toward the heavens

















View from crossing to bow, elevation



















Helpful model















Library, on city square















Poetry on alley walls



















Outdoor bookstore in boxes















Impressive contemporary architecture too (so why wasn't it
shaped like a round of gouda?)