Straits of Messina and On To Sicily

The Straits of Messina divide the mainland and Sicily. It looks like 2-3 miles wide, and we rolled-on and rolled-off the ferry so quickly, half an hour, I barely got the ship's name.

I think it was Themestieri, or possibly The Mestieri

Part of the procession of ferries across the Straits; a bridge has been under 
discussion for years; but I gather both the Italians and the Sicilians are quite 
comfortable with this much separation

For those really in a hurry, a hydrofoil plies the waters

The voyage is so short they let you remain with your vehicle

So we rolled off in Messina, found the toll-way, and headed south along the coast for 
our first stop, Giardini and the Bay of Naxos, and Taormina; and the Lagani 
"campground," an attractive parking area for motorhomes--no trailers, tents, nothing 
not fully self-contained--the usual amenities, but only 8 euros a night; mostly Italians 
and Germans, aNederlander, an Austrian, us, and a Finn, who is apparently

driving a big toy-hauler with a Smart Car inside...interesting

Our current encampment



Bay of Naxos, Giardini in the distance, Taormina is its aerie above

Reggio Calabria and the Bronzes

It rained all day Monday, and rain was forecast for most of the rest of the week in the Bay of Naples. Although our original intention was to go no further south than Paestrum, we change our plans, especially upon hearing from a Brit couple at Camping Spartacus about how nice Sicily is. ("They'll make you an offer you can't refuse"). So we pulled up stakes Tuesday morning and headed south, getting to within a hundred kilometers of Reggio Calabria (southwest end of the peninsula; toe of the boot) by dark, parking in a busy service area. The drive was unpleasant...freeway, mostly through the mountains, more all day rain and wintry mix, trucks and more trucks, never-ending construction on the never-ending procession of bridges and tunnels, bridges and tunnels. The A3 will be a great road when they finish it.

The next morning was clear and bright, and we got into Reggio by 9:30 or so, found excellent parking in a park on the Straits, and headed for the Museum of Magna Graeca, which houses the famous Bronzes of Riace. After learning it was closed for renovation, we headed for the School of Restoration (I was hoping it would be a restaurant school) where we were told the Bronzi now temporarily reside. In the course of all this we walked much of downtown Reggio, which we thought very nice, if tiring.

Salerno; where thousands of Americans died in the 1943

invasion

Swordfish sale in Reggio: 1/2 off (nyuk, nyuk, nyuk)

The Bronzi were found by a diver off the shore at Riace, not

far from Reggio, in 1972, and were hailed immediately as one

of the greatest underwater finds yet: two nearly perfectly-

preserved bronze warriors, life-size or more, mid-5th century

BCE Greek; the Greeks did most of their sculpture in Bronze,

very few remain, and most of what is known of Greek

sculpture comes from Roman copies in marble

This is what they look like (off the web)

But when we entered the School of Restoration, they were

off in what looked like an intensive care ward, glassed off

from the rest of the exhibits, with a variety of technicians in

lab coats ministering to them (removing interior clay mold

material); interestingly, much the apparatus used in

preserving them is from surgery wards

Up-close of Warrior B; I wish I had more and

better pix, but they had a no pix policy for the

Bronzi and half a dozen guides and security

folk enforcing it

Elsewhere in the (temporary) exhibit from the Museum,

some nice small reliefs

And this wonderful 3rd century mosaic of dragons

The School of Restoration

Beautiful old banyan trees line the boulevard/boardwalk

along the Straits, facing Sicily



Sayonara, mainland; we are off in another ferry for the 20

minute ride to Messina



Amalfi Bus Ride--on YouTube

For the return trip to Sorrento, and maximum thrills, we decided to sit right behind the driver. OK, it's not an amusement park ride. But it was thrilling enough. The audio on the clip following is mostly the driver's radio. It's not scintillating, but it is authentic...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwKc2KTg77I

Amalfi Coast: The Road Not Driven

Everyone recommends tourists not attempt to drive the Amalfi Coast road. Rather, one should take a tour, a taxi, and simply get a 24 hour pass on the local bus from Sorrento to Salerno. We opted for the latter--ensuring I'd get to see some of it and Vicki would not have a heart attack--taking the train to Sorrento and then the Sorrento-Salerno bus. It was a hoot. The day began sunny but later turned cloudy and hazy. Not so good for photographs, but just fine for seeing in person. Plus we had a most memorable lunch in Amalfi.

One of the wilder parts of the coast, before

Positano

The islands here mark the end of the Bay of Naples and the

Bay of Salerno; they used to belong to Rudolf Nuryev

Our bus ride was interrupted, pleasantly, by a stop to let a

cycling competition pass

Another view up the coast toward Sorrento

Positano coming into view; the natural aspect of the coast,

when you can see it, is impressive enough; the human,

built aspect--the road, buildings, etc.--nearly overshadows

the natural

Positano, vertical city



One of the many ancient towers along the way, built

to warn of approaching Saracen pirates

Looking back toward Positano

Amalfi (some of it)

12th century church at Amalfi

One of our best lunches ever, at Il Tari in

Amalfi, the paccheri with veal, tomatoes,

onion, provola and pecorino cheese, basil,

etc. I may have to become a pasta fan

The beach at Amalfi; nothing to write home about



Statue of local hero, Flavio Gioia (no relation

to Dana), who improved the compass

Typical traffic encounter--and why I didn't drive

Italian Outtakes #1

No menu at the Azienda Agritouristico restaurant? No

problem: just look around to see what's for dinner

Someone's sculpture garden near Paestum, notable for its

eclecticity (220v), also demonstrating that such taste knows

no boundaries (we have seen similar in Spain, Switzerland,

Scotland, Sweden, and that's just the S's)

The very, very famous Winged Phallus of Paestrum (in the

museum and in sourvenir stores all over the Bay of Naples)

Campagna is home to Mozzarella di Bufala, "the pearl of the

Mediterranean," water buffalo cheese; it's really excellent,

hints of nut and smoke in addition to the usual flavors; we

are stocking up 

Statue of Tinkerbell in Naples' Royal Palace

Wedding cake at Gambrinus'--we swear we saw this very

cake decoration at Walmart in the States

Mindo di Gappo

So we're riding the train back from Naples to Pompeii, sitting

in the first car, and the conductor notices I am trying

mightily to get a decent picture of Capri out the window; he

tells me wait a bit, after the next stop or two, then motions

for me to step into the driver's compartment; then he and

the driver positively maneuver the train to a spot with an

unobstructed view and stop it there for me to get my shot

The Shot

They grow these really huge lemons around here

Camping Spartacus, our home for four days and nights; the

bungalows apparently rent by the hour, too, providing an

endless stream of entertainment...

Naples' Royal Palace

It's not one of the must-see destinations, but we had a free pass and were walking right by it, so we dropped in to the Royal Palace in Naples...home of the Kings of Naples over the last 200 years, until 1946 anyway. Although relatively new, by palatial standards--it's mostly 18th and 19th century--it was nevertheless strking in many ways.

Unimposing exterior of the palace



Along the exterior, one of the eight Kings of

Naples...can you name them all?

Grand entry and stairs, incredible rose marble

Theatre

Throne of the King of Naples

View of harbor and Vesuvius from palace

Italy's great blessing and curse...incredibly

great monuments like this, but operations and

maintenance costs that must be staggering

Great Hall

Reading machine; you can flip back and forth among seven

different texts

Hall after hall; the queen had three different

sitting rooms

Royal chapel...the largest we have seen anywhere except

El Escorial

Of course, being Spanish, they had to have world-class

nativity scenes

And, of course, at this point we had to stop by Gambrinus',

one of Naples' premier cafes, for a pastry and expresso