Saturday, February 26, 2011

Olympia Museum

Olympia Museum; the Games are very old, older than
Clasical Greece, and it is amazing how much has survived
















West pediment of Temple of Zeus: the battle between the
Lapiths and Centaurs (look it up)
















East pediment: Pelops, founder of the Games, father of
Peloponnesians
















Detail: a Lapith woman















Detail from the east pediment: the Seer















Nike of Paeonios: formerly on the triangular
pedestal in the sanctuary




















And now, two of the utterly cool things in this museum
(reflecting my bias for the historical, I suppose): this is
Miltiades' helmet, from the Battle of Marathon; he had
presented it to the Games as an offering to Zeus


















And this cup, found in the excavation of Pheidias'
workshop, bears the inscription "I belong to Pheidias"
















A warrior bids farewell to wife and child















Among the hundreds of figurines found at Olympia

Olympia II

Along the row of Zanes, leading to the
Stadium, once statues of various cheaters
whose fines helped support the Games





















Like every other religious site, Olympia was built on
top of someone else's site; here a neolithic site more recently
unearthed and explored

















Remains of the Altar of Hera, where the Olympic Torch is lit
every two years (summer/winter)
















Temple of Hera















Vicki at Hera's; note profusion of wild flowers; spring in this
part of the world
















Olympic athletes were marinated in olive oil for both
training and competition; and used these tubs to clean off
afterwards

















Another view of the gym and wild flowers















Site of Pheidias' workshop; a Christian church in the 6th
century
















Bases of the colonnaded Leonideion, a large hotel for
officials, VIPs
















Parting view of the Stadium, from the slopes of Kronos Hill
c

Olympia I

We spent Sunday morning touring the archaeological site of the Olympic Games, Archaia Olympia. The first recorded Olympic Games occurred in 776 BC and ran an unbroken string every four years until 393 AD, when the Christians shut them down, along with various other pagan institutions. Initially, and for the first several hundred years, the Games provided a month-long truce every four years, allowing athletes and spectators to journey to sacred Olympia (birthplace of Zeus). The main occupation of the various Greek city-states, history tells us, was making war on each other and on anyone else within reach; so the Games were a nice respite. But then in Hellenistic times and later under Roman administration the Games changed, becoming less a Pan-Hellenic gathering than another spectacle. Sic transit, Gloria. Anyhow, the Games were forgotten, the site silted up under 3-4 meters of mud, and it was not re-discovered until the 18th century. Most of the archaeological work was done in the 19th century.

Kronos Hill, a pathetic little near-hillock where Zeus was
said to have been born (Kronos his dad; it's a long
disgusting story), overlooks the Olympic sanctuary

















In the sanctuary, entering the gymnasium area, where the
athletes trained
















The Phillipeon, a monument to Philip of Macedon, erected
by himself, celebrating his conquest of Greece
















Temple of Hera















Alongside the Temple of Zeus; 6th century earthquakes
toppled pretty much everything sizeable
















Pedestal of the statue of Nike (victory); we'll
see her in the Museum




















Temple of Zeus remains















The Temple of Zeus housed Pheidias' colossal statue of
Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders; it was later carted off
to Byzantium and there lost in a blaze; this representation,
which I like, was in a bar in Olympia...Sic transit, etc.


















Remains of vaulted entry to Olympic Stadium














 
OK, so the Greeks did know how to build an arch














Starting line in Olympic Stadium; intact,
seriously, after all these years; I'll spare you
the photo of me, this time only, lined up and
awaiting the starting gun






















Olympic Stadium, with Kronos Hill in the background; no
seats, no skyboxes, nothing

Friday, February 25, 2011

Mountain Road, Rural Peloponnesia

So after Mycenae, we headed west, through the interior, bound for Archaia Olympia, on a mountain/gorge road of Vicki's nightmares.

Nice little road-side chapel; note snow in the mountains...















Heading toward one of the more vertical little towns we have
seen
















Closer up
















Road narrows (a lot), helpful bend mirrors, a dozen of them,
eventually, begin to appear

















Fortunately, there's not a lot of traffic















Back on the narrow, twisty, and true















Tiny oil truck for tiny roads















In another little town, a fixer-upper with income potential
















A couple more of the thousands of road-side shrines one
sees in Greece
















Finally, we're on an expressway, sort of; but then it comes to
an abrupt, unannounced end...

















But we finally make it to Olympia and spend the night
(with police permission even) in the parking lot next to the
great archaeological site
















Mycenae Museum

The Mycenae Musem, down the hill from the city















Inside one of its halls















Mycenaen figurines















"Call home!"




















Bronze Age assortiment















Replicas of Schliemann's dig; the originals are in the Mycenaen Hall of the 
National Museum in Athens
















More Bronze Age bronze















Mycenaen worry beads