Sunday, November 7, 2010

On the Blue Lagoon, Olu Deniz

Saturday afternoon we found our way back down to the sea, the resort of Olu Deniz and a campground on the Blue Lagoon, which, I am told, is famous. We decided to take it easy here for a day, do the wash, regroup, and walk into town...
We are staying at the Sugar Beach Club, 20YTL, including everything, which 
evidently is a pretty swinging place in the high season; don't worry, we are the 
only campers here presently

















This is the Blue Lagoon, which looks more black and brackish to me















This is the Creature from the Black Lagoonone of the formative 
movies of my life; along with Jaws, accounts for my disinclination 
to go into any water that doesn't have major chlorine content 
(caption: "in your dreams, scaly creep")






















Interesting adverts in town














Guess the nationality of visitors here; I was tempted 
nonetheless



















They also do boat cruises (we passed)














In high season it looks like this














Right now it looks like this; which is incredible because the place is glorious, 
more than affordable, and the weather beats anything we saw in Spain; but 
apparently there are no cheap flights from the UK of GB this time of year

















So the locals get to practice mountain rescue techniques



















And have family picnics in the Natural Park; Turkish family picnics are not 
small and simple affairs...

Saklikent Gorge

A little more driving, and one of Tom Tom's more interesting short-cuts, took us up to the mountains and the Saklikent Gorge, a huge gorge that cuts up into 9,895 foot Gombe Akgai. Access to the gorge is only by foot.
A boardwalk leads a few hundred feet into the
gorge; after that, you walk in the stream...




















Gorges are really tough on cameras and
photographers--no perspective to lend the
3rd dimension, very difficult lighting





















Plus, we did not want to get our feet wet, nor risk any more
debilitating injuries; so we stopped here
















Looking up; I would guess it's 300 feet deep at this point,
deeper further in















Bolder explorers can rent head and foot gear from the
concessions
















Or dine in platforms in the creek (somehow, farm-raised
Turkish trout didn't quite appeal)















The creek, which is actually quite a gusher
even in this dry part of the year





















At the mouth of the canyon





















The creek, from above; this is how harbors get silted-up!























We drove on in the direction Fethiye, stopping for a couple days' rest on the beach in a campground in Olu Deniz.

Xanthos

Only a few miles from Letoon is Xanthos, which, near a hill-top, was the capital of Lycia.
We had Xanthos pretty much to ourselves (as with so
many of these sites)
















Main street, Xanthos, one of the wider boulevards we have
seen in this part of the ancient world
















Typical of the stones laying around by the hundreds















Agora and theatre















Huge stele; the top part is in the British
Museum, of course




















Several Lycian tombs adorn the theatre area















Remains of the large Byzantine church elswhere on the site















Nice mosaics in the church















"Heart" detail















Around the hill is the necropolis and a number of ruined
tombs and house tombs

















Most pretty tumbled down; despite the ruination, both
Letoon and Xanthos are World Heritage Sites

















Letoon

We had planned on spending the night at the parking lot at Letoon, another Lycean/Hellenistic/Roman site, but that proved not feasible, and, rather than wandering around in the darkness looking for the beach, we halted at the nice MaxiWax gas station nearby...where you can not only wash but also wax your vehicle, free. Very nice, accommodating people. We filled up the next morning. The station was within range of three different mosques, so we got a nice early start on the day. With the days getting shorter and shorter, this is a
good thing.
Leto was another consort of Zeus, so to speak, who bore him
Apollo and Artemis; Hera, Zeus' "better half," didn't like this,
so she condemned Leto to a life of wandering, right here in
Lycia; she became the local patron goddess, apparently
replacing Cybele, the Mother Earth of previous aeons, and
Letoon is her shrine as well as religious center of Lycia;
pictured above is Leto's temple




















Interior of Leto's temple; as you can see, they're doing a
bit of renovation here and there
















Renovation parts















Three in a row: the temples of Apollo, Artemis, and Leto















Within the Temple of Apollo is a very nice mosaic of his
symbols, the lyre (music), the sun, and the bow and arrow
(OK, I took the picture upside-down)

















Me playing the lyre















Really nice stuff in the spare parts yard















Ditto















Theatre















Really old olive tree nearby

Scenic and Other Driving in Turkey

Scenes from the last two days' driving...we probably didn't cover a hundred miles, but they're all interesting...
We've seen many of the world's scenic coasts--a few
more to go--and they are all spectacular in their own ways--
but Turkey's Mediterranean coast rivals the best of them

















Sea camel















Nearby islands, many of them















The clarity of the water is exceptional



















The great Kaputas chasm, right on the road--
only a few feet wide, a couple hundred high




















Issues in this small isolated beach















Actually, animals on the road are pretty unusual for Turkey,
but the bridge here framed such an exceptional shot, I had to
do it
















Turkey has some 70 million citizens and some 150 million
restaurant/cafe/snack bar seats; they line the roads, they
are at every intersection, every rest area...

















Here's a pastry shop on wheels, baklava and all those other
good things; yes, we did; how can you not support this
kind of entrepreneurship?
















We have been astonished at the number and variety of gas
stations in Turkey; most of the traffic is commercial, trucks,
buses, maxitaxis (dolmus), relatively few private automobiles
in sight; diesel is running well over $8 a gallon, and gasoline
way more than that; yet there appear to be thousands of gas
stations, nearly all of them quite new and quite nice, nearly
all with little markets or cafes; all of them offer you free tea
or coffee as well as trinkets with larger purchases; and--this
seems to be the major competing point--all of them offer free
car or truck washing facilities; Turks are fastidious, not to
say obsessive, about keeping their cars and trucks clean; we
once watched a young man take 20 minutes to rinse, lather,
wash, scrub, rinse, and rinse again, his motor scooter; we
should have videotaped it; anyhow, under this kind of social
pressure, we have now ourselves washed the Grey Wanderer
more times in Turkey than in all other countries combined;
free




























And then there are Turkish drivers (very nearly without
exception, males), who are on the whole quite good, if not,
um, linear, if you get my "drift"