Thursday, October 7, 2010

Istanbul Archaeology Museums

Sunday we did the Istanbul Archaeology Museums, part of the Topkapi complex in Sultanahmet. We had actually prepared for this, and subsequent archaeology in Turkey, by viewing several DVDs we have on ancient near eastern history, from The Teaching Company. It's really difficult getting Ur, Babylon, the Chaldeans, the neo-Babylonians, the Hittites, the neo-Hittites, the Egyptians, Assyrians, the Phrygians, the Lydians, etc., all straight. We're working on it. Alas, one of the main attractions of the museum, for us, a remnant of the iron chain the Byzantines stretched across the Golden Horn to keep unfriendly ships out, was on loan to some other museum. Next time.
Main building of the Istanbul Archaeology Museum















In the ancient near eastern section, a huge Hittite relief





















One of several tile dragons (also lions, etc.) that lined a street in neo-Babylon




















"The oldest love poem," c. 2000 BC




















Deer a favorite in ancient near eastern depictions, especially hunting scenes; 
I had never thought of deer in the near east; perhaps they were hunted-out
















The Kadesh Treaty, oldest known treaty--a copy stands at the entrance to the UN--
between the Hittites and Egypt, late bronze age

















The Museum's associated tile kiosk, exhibits of Ottoman tile
















Just one example















In the main museum, its most prized possession, the so-called Alexander 
Sarcophagus, made for a 4th century BC king in Sidon; it is nearly the 
size of a small house, very nearly perfectly preserved, a superb example 
of Hellenistic work


















A detail, Alexander spearing a foe















Greek woman/goddess




















"These sandals are made for walkin', and that's just what they'll do..."
















Hermaphrodite




















A nearly contemporaneous bust of Alexander




















Jaunty pose of a Roman woman




















Some objects from Schliemann's excavations of Troy; the Museum has a whole 
big floor devoted to Troy; but understand that Homer's Troy was Troy VI--the 
place  was inhabited for aeons and a major center for centuries, abandoned and 
"lost" only in the middle ages



















Me by a conjectural Trojan horse

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Vicki Smokes the Nargile; Briefly

In this amazing sequence, Vicki smokes the nargile; briefly. Give her credit: most of the cool things we do are her ideas, and I am dragged along reluctantly. It seems so unfair that, much of the time, I end up enjoying them more than she does.
It starts well; a long drag...
















Savoring the cool, sweet and spicy apple flavor















Reflecting on the experience




















Not so sure of this...




















Trying again, inhaling, exhaling (just like yoga...) ...well, not 
that kind of inhaling




















Exhaling again, savoring the aroma and sweetness and 
coolness and ...




















Wait a second...




















Ick! Yuck! You take it!

At the Nargile Cafe

Right across the street from our "campground" was the Semaver Nargile Cafe, which I had visited a couple times for its free wifi. A nargile is the Turkish water pipe, in which is smoked dried fruit, not tobacco.  Just walking past one of these establishments is a deliciously aromatherapeutic experience.
Here's the manager, one morning, with his laptop, talking on his cell, with a cup 
of tea, puffing away on the nargile
















A nargile




















The Semaver's menu, all sorts of hot and cold non-alcoholic 
drinks, snacks, delicacies, and, of course...





















Its nargile menu

Off the Wall In Istanbul

After Chora, we walked a few blocks further to see a remnant of the once great wall of Istanbul
Stopping for some fun and shopping on the way















And some practical matters; I needed a haircut, hadn't had
one since early June; the barber here has just finished
burning the fuzzy hairs of my ears; note the Bic lighter in
his hand; didn't hurt, but didn't smell good, either


















Vicki on the Great Wall




















Outside the wall, looking toward the new
town in the distance




















The bus trip back to Eminonu took us through the bridal
shop district; dozens of these stores
















At Eminonu I had dinner off one of the boats--a huge
hoagie sort of roll, stuffed with raw onions and lettuce and
a grilled fish fillet, seasoned with lemon juice; with an
interesting drink, sort of, pickles and cabbage in a cold red
vinegary mixture; for once, I had just one...



















Seated somewhere in this madhouse















Vicki dined at her favorite foreign restaurant--now featuring
its McTurco Menu--
















But from our terrace-level table there was at least a nice
view of the old train station, from which the once Orient
Express regularly departed

Chora Church

Our Saturday continued with a bus ride from Eminonu to the northern outskirts of the older city, beyond the original wall and just short of the final wall, to the Chora Church, a 14th century Byzantine church reknowned for its late Byzantine mosaics.
The Chora church is hemmed in by residential buildings and
it is difficult to get a good exterior view; this from the small
garden behind the church
















Most of the great mosaics are in the narthex; that's Jesus
in the womb of Mary
















Most concerning events in the life of Christ; this the
flight to Egypt
















The fingers are sending some sort of Byzantine code;
digital, no doubt (nyuk, nyuk, nyuk)















Some are only remnants















The donor of the church, Metochites, offers his gift...















Another important personage with digital
issues




















Mosaics had been around for a millenium or so, mostly on
Roman floors; it was the Byzantines who figured out how
to put them on walls and even ceilings, as here

















A spectacular ceiling example, Christ's lineage















In the nave, the centerpiece moved a bit to the right, in the
direction of Mecca
















In the side porch/narthex/whatever, a fresco of the last
judgment
















Chora is known for the expressiveness, emotion, of its
figures; enlarge this to see...
















Detail of the above; note the woman at the right...such
depiction of emotion is most unusual for its time