Mavora Lakes and Mararoa River

"Two hobbits lay here...thrashing about...

what were they doing?"

Other Side of the Swingbridge (from which shot was taken)
was the Departure from Lothlorien; the Left Side of the
Lake, the Route to Mordor, the Right Side, the Site of Frodo
and Sam's Departure at the End of FOTR

Hiding from Uruk-hai

The Log Under Which Merry and Pip Hid from the Uruk-hai

The Ranger Who Gave Us Directions

The major LOTR sites of the day were at the Mavora Lakes and Mararoa River, 40km from Mossburn, itself pretty well removed from anything except sheep ranches. (We have concluded that a “burn,” as in “Mossburn” or “Routeburn,” is a creek or river). Around the lakes and the river were perhaps the richest collection of LOTR sites we have yet seen. The sites all had to do with the dissolution of the Fellowship, the departure from Lothlorien, the Uruk-hai attack on the band, the capture of Merry and Pippin, and Frodo and Sam's escape. Also nearby were the site of the Riders of Rohan attack on the Uruk-hai, where they burned the corpses, where Viggo Mortensen broke his toe, where Merry and Pippin escaped into Fangorn Forest, and the Forest itself.

Not a bad day's Ringer work, aided, as always, by Ian Brodie's guidebook of LOTR sites. Brodie's book is indispensable, if exasperating at times. A typical description would go like this. “The site is located on a farm road between Auckland and Queenstown. Please shut the gate after entering. Drive another 10-50km, then turn onto a paddock bordered by trees. The site will be immediately recognizable. Behind the bush is where Elijah Wood lost his third set of hobbit feet.” We found the stump (actually a log) under which Merry and Pippin hid in the forest from the Uruk-hai only through the kindness of some nearby campers. A ranger's directions had proven unfruitful—he seemed not to have high regard for Ringers—although his advice did afford us a nice mid-day hike around part of the north lake.

In fairness, I should add that Brodie provides GPS coordinates for all the sites, and such coordinates and the ability to find them would be nearly as indispensable at the book itself. Months ago we decided not to invest in GPS technology for our Asia/Pacific trip. It would have been useless in Asia and one more heavy valuable to lug around and guard. There have been days here in NZ when we wish we had done otherwise. But by and large it's been feasible and perhaps even more fun “the old fashioned way.”

Queenstown to Te Anau

Monday's drive from Queenstown to Te Anau—200 or so km—took us from one huge mountain lake to another, further west and south, but across ever changing ground. The departing views of Queenstown, across the lake, were great. After an hour or so along the west side of the lake, including Kingston and its working steam engine, the land became very dry and open, similar to the American West. Many scenes could have been Montana's high plains, ringed by mountains, but dry and rolling, the sage brush replaced by some low-growing, drought-loving Gondwanalandian shrub. A 40km detour over unsealed road (but no ford) took us to the Mavora Lakes, two beautiful trout-laden high lakes back in mountainous country. The last leg saw us in more rolling agricultural country, approaching Te Anau, the largest of these huge lakes, and the mountains of Fiordland.

Agricultural country. Indeed: all of New Zealand. Everything grows here, everything thrives here, on one island or the other and in the seas about. We ate at a restaurant Sunday night in Queenstown whose menu noted that all its dishes and ingredients were locally produced.

Queenstown from the Other Side of the Lake

The Kingston Flyer

A Real Kiwi Campervan

“They have such beautiful eyes,” (to paraphrase a Gene Wilder line from a favorite Woody Allen flick). According to tourist publications on driving in the back country, one should drive right straight into a flock like this at 5-10kmph and not hesitate nor waiver; the sheep will make way. If you stop, they will stop. That's exactly how it works, too.

January 19, 2009--Queenstown

We are just packing up to head to the Morevia Lakes and Te Anua region. There we will visit Fanghorn Forest ,another Ring site, but also begin the Milford Sound Trek which National Geographic proclaimed as the Best Hike in the World. Ever since the 80s it has been highly regulated. (We booked on July 15) Only 40 people can begin the 4 day hike each day. There is no camping allowed, everyone must stay in the huts and everyone hikes it in the same direction. The first day will only be about 2 hrs of walking as you have to take a 30 min bus ride from Te Anua to the start, then a boat to the actual start. I am most worried about days 3 and 4. Day 3 is 10 miles with a 1500 ft elevation gain and a 3000 ft descent over the pass. That is a lot for my knees even with the braces on. I have not done that much on this trip while carrying a pack. The 4th and last day is long for me at 12 miles but after day 3 I'm sure my legs will be talking to me. Unfortunately, the last boat that takes you to the lodge at the end of the road leaves at 3:15. There is no trail, so if we miss it, we spend the night without a tent at a wonderful place called Sandfly Point. We have been getting ready--and I think I can do it--I just hate having a deadline to worry about. We will spend two nights at Milford Sound at the backpackers lodge and kayak part of the sound after a rest day. Then we catch a bus back the 60 miles to Te Anua. One nice thing is that we can send a pack ahead on the bus to the lodge so that we can have a change of clothes and other amenities that we wouldn't be able to carry in on our backs. Mark and I have learned to backpack very light. It is great for the diet. If you have no food, you can't get fat!

I think Mark is doing a pretty good job in describing everything. Of course, he doesn't have the proper respect for the Ring sites we are visiting. But in reality he is really enjoying them as he is a big fan of the movies. Trying to find some of them has been difficult as we don't have a GPS and some of Brodie's directions are none too clear. Also some things have changed in the 8 years since the movies were made and 5 years since the location book was written. The hunt has taken us to many places we would have missed otherwise. It has reminded us of our trip to Europe in 1989. When we were in England and France we did a lot of hunting for menhirs and other paleolithic sites for Mark and then many fairytale and children's sites for the girls based on a book called Heidi's Alp. It really adds another dimension to a trip when you can drink from the spring that Heidi did (unfortunately, so did her sheep.)

Riders of Rotel

Vicki and I became acquainted with Rotel on our first trip to Europe, in 1979. It is a touring arrangement consisting of a bus and huge tractor-trailer. Passengers ride by day in the bus, stay in campgrounds, cook their own meals, and then sleep in little compartments in the trailer (“coffins” Rebecca and Rachel called them back in 1989; I think Vicki had told them Rotel was a traveling vampire troop). See illustration. I'd guess they can carry 50 or more people. We have seen them, over the years, in London, Paris, Rome, Venice, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, Denali, and other such places. Fiordlands National Park, where we are just now, camping at Lake Te Anau, is such a world-class place—one of the four adjoining national parks that comprise NZ's great Southwest World Heritage Site—and it is strangely reaffirming to see Rotel here too. We'll be camping in Te Anau Monday and Tuesday, do the Milford Tramp Wednesday-Saturday, staying in DOC huts, and then will spend Saturday and Sunday nights at the lodge in Milford Sound. Monday we'll do some sea-kayaking in the Sound before returning to Te Anau and resting up for the Routeburn Tramp, two days later. Milford Sound has internet, but we probably won't post any blog pix for a week or so. Periods of rain are forecast on the Milford Tramp Wednesday through Friday, but that is par for the course here. In Hawaii, they say “no rain, no rainbow.” Here it would be “no rain, no rain forest, nor glacier, nor fiord.” Nor sandflies.

 

Travails of the Ringer

On (exactly) this site, in the year 3147 of the Third Age, Rangers of Ithilien attacked and annihilated a large Haradrim force, including two battle oliphants; the Rangers were led by Captain Faramir, son of Denethor II, Steward of Gondor... (and on the cliff to Vicki's right (out of view; but we were there) Sam and Smeagol argued about proper preparation of a brace of coneys)

These are the kinds of challenges and obstacles with which the faithful Ringer must contend...

We got as far as Lothlorien...

And even to Isengard; OK, lose the fence and powerline and the sheep, and CG-in Orthanc...

But, obviously, we didn't get as far as Paradise; the seventh ford was too deep and fast, and I almost over-turned the Bongo backing away; but some friendly Kiwis (from HireEquip) pulled us out and saved the day.

In addition to the above items, at 12 Mile Creek, further up Lake Wakitipu, to Glenorchy and beyond (almost Paradise), we also did a long day hike on the Routeburn Tramp, which we'll do fully in ten days. It was raining for most of the hike, so there are not many pix.

It's Sunday night and we're back in Queenstown, leaving for Te Anau and preparations for the Milford Tramp Monday morning.

Atop the Remarkables

Thursday again combined the mundane with the exceptional. After more morning errands, we drove up the 13km unsealed track to the Remarkables Ski Center and then hiked up to Lake Alta, a glacial tarn near the end of the range. The views back toward the lake and town, and beyond to the Southern Alps in the great distance, were terrific. At Lake Alta, we identified two important LOTR sites, another Dimrill Dale view and also the creek (actually a smaller pondlet) where Aragorn crosses the Silverlode (so Vicki said). The exciting descent featured more views and also a para-sail launch site. The later afternoon and evening were occupied with washing sleeping bags and other things, and a mundane camper meal prepared in the campground kitchen.

Friday we'll leave Queenstown and spend a few days in the Glenorchy area, reconnoitering the Routeburn and hiking. The Milford tramp is next week.

Southern Alps, Many Miles Away

Peter Jackson and Viggo Mortensen Stood Right Here!

Same Dimrill Dale, Different Island

These People Will Jump Off Anything...

Two Views of Queenstown

The Great Elven Gate at the Entrance to Queenstown Hill: "Speak, Friend, and Enter"

Queenstown and Lake View

Most Mushrooms Are Drab and Uninteresting; Not in New Zealand--Pizza Mushrooms!

Dinner with a View

Our Wednesday morning hike was up Queenstown Hill, 1800 meters, with fine views of the lake and town. Queenstown actually wraps around the lake a bit; the lake itself is sort of S-shaped. So, except from high above, it's not possible for a camera to take in the whole thing. The loop track we took led us through a dark forest brimming with the most unusual (poisonous) mushrooms (see illustration). In the afternoon we did some errands, store-bought haircuts, repair (second time) of my lousy Vasque boots, miscellaneous shopping and returns and exploring in town. For dinner, we took the cable-car back up Ben Lomond to the Sky Center, where, following luge rides, we had the excellent buffet dinner, 8:15 seating, corner window for two, best in the house.

Cottage-on-Wheels Industry

Ace, Wicked, HappyCampers, GoBirdz, Kea, Kiwicampas, Jucy, Maui, United Campervans, Discover NZ, Apollo, Britz, Camping Cruzas, CheapaCampas, Spaceships, Backpacker, Tui....

These are a few of the campervan rental brands parked at the campground we are at in Queenstown. I won't attempt to generalize about how Kiwis do their holiday/recreational travel, but it seems like every 3rd or 4th vehicle one sees here is a rental campervan, generally a class B or class C rig. The terrain and roads argue against the big American class A's, of which we have seen none in our month here; which is fine with us. My favorites are the minimalist Wicked campers, all attractively and imaginatively (some would say distatstefully) painted up. One just pulled by that had huge letters on the back that said “Hold Still—I Have Very Poor Depth Perception.”

Queenstown Advertising

Tuesday morning we hiked up to the Sky Center on the mountain behind us, Ben Lomond, a good 1500 feet up and back down, mostly on a good track. At the Sky Center were an ample observation deck (incredible views of Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, the Remarkables, etc), a restaurant, gift shop, para-sailing, luge, and the obligatory bungy jump (also AJ Hackett's). We had a scone and a savory muffin and the pictured cup of latte, which, though visually appealing, wasn't all that great. They also sold pasties (not pictured). The Remarkables are a range of craggy peaks south of the lake, Queenstown's frontal view. More of them later.

For dinner, we did fish n' chips for me, popcorn for Vicki at the movie, "Australia." I liked it (more than "Twilight"); Vicki didn't.

On to Queenstown

Queenstown is the adventure tourism capital of the South Island, maybe New Zealand, probably the world. Ever wanted to wing-walk a stunt bi-plane? You can do it here, as well as anything else you or anyone else has been able to conjure up. Apparently Kiwis are not particularly litigious. Or perhaps their judges and juries are not particularly sympathetic to people whose claims involve jumping off of towers, bridges, canyon cliffs, buildings, aircraft, tall trees, etc.

Apart from several LOTR sites en route (more later), our major stop of the day was at the old Kawarau River Bridge (over the Anduin, again), where bungy (sic) jumping was invented and perfected by one AJ Hackett. There are higher sites (also Hackett's) and more outrageous jumps, but this one was the original, very historic, founded way back in 1988 (AD). And, since we were driving right past it, in search of the Pillars of the Kings, we had to stop. It's not just a rope hanging off a bridge. There is a visitor center, an historic plaque, a multi-media show, a gift store, a wine bar/cafe, a restaurant, wine-tasting...and, oh yes, scores of people lined up to jump in an assembly-line procession, family and “friends” encouraging them from the sidelines. I was very slightly tempted, but unfortunately, or not, had shot my whole adventure tourism budget on the micro-flight. The oldest person to have done this sort of thing so far was 94. I'll come back later.

The day's LOTR sites included a variety of panoramic views, in Rob Roy valley (Misty Mountains south of Rivendell), in the mountains south of Wanaka, the Crown Range, and on the river by AJ Hackett's, the Anduin, again, which must be a great river indeed since it spans two islands. In the case of the latter, the search involved a stop, a tasting, and, ultimately, a purchase at the Chard Farm Vinyard, whose staff were very knowledgeable of Ring lore and local sites, and who produce a very fine NZ sauvignon blanc. This is the price faithful Ringers must pay. The last sites were in Arrowtown, a beautifully restored/preserved mining town that was crawling with tourists on a sunny Monday afternoon. The sites in question were two river shots, the Ford of Bruinen, where Arwen saves Frodo from the Black Riders (in the movie), the other the Gladden Fields (ditto) where Isuldur was ambushed by the orcs and lost the Ring. (I can't believe I am writing this stuff; Vicki is the Ringer in our crew). In any case, we found both fairly readily, for once, enjoyed some time on the river and in town, and then moved on to beautiful Queenstown, a small city on a huge high lake, ringed by tall mountains. We camped at the Queenstown Lakeview Holiday Park, a few blocks up from the downtown.

Natural Selection in Progress; at AJ Hackett's Original Bungy Site, Kawarau (Anduin) Bridge

Vicki at the Ford of Bruinen

The Mighty Anduin, The Great River, from the Chard Farm Vineyards

January 12, 2000--Arrowtown, near Queenstown, New Zealand

We stayed last night in our first "wild camping" at the end of a day hike into a fabulous canyon with Rob Roy Glacier at the end of it. Basically we haven't wild camped as much as we thought we would. Part of that is being strangers in a strange land, but also because of the sand flies. These are terrible in rural areas with lots of grass and bushes. It was very windy last night so they weren't a problem, but they were back this morning, so we packed up as quickly as possible. Today we drove to some additional LOR sites on our way to Queenstown. We are in the public library now--we had to pay (though only $1) to check email, so I thought I would use the rest of the time to blog. We did stay two nights in a backpacker's lodge in Wanaka and were very pleased with it. It was only $36 a night whereas camping without hookups would have been $18. We had our own room and the bath was down the hall. It was nice to be inside--the kitchen had everything including a blender, dishes, even special shelves in cupboard and refrigerator labeled with your room number. We spent more to rent a van we could sleep in, but had we known how great and easy the backpacker accomodations were, we might have gone with just a car and ended up paying about the same in total per day. We still hope to come back in the next few years for 4-6 months. I know we won't do the van route as we can barely climb up into the roof bed now! We are starting to think about buying the camper for Europe so that is exciting, too. I am also excited about getting back to Missoula for visits with our friends--whom I miss very much.

Kiwi Signage

Vicki and I love signage. Our house in Missoula featured sign forests all over, and we're still “collecting.” Kiwi signage is some of the best, at least from my peculiar perspective.

Men's Room ("Gents")

More Bathroom Humor

Department of Conservation Tramps and Hikes Are Very Well Signed

If Somewhat Understated

Keas Are Another Feature of the Gondwanalandian/Zealandian Flora and Fauna Here; They Are the World's Only Alpine Parrot (and Large Enough to Kill a Sheep); We Have Seen None--They Are All Evidently Over in Fiordland, Not Pining; Apparently German and Japanese Tourists Can't Resist Feeding Them

Schist Is Everywhere Here

Rob Roy

Mt. Aspiring; I think

Part of Rob Roy Valley; Click to Englarge and See If You Can Count All 57 Waterfalls in View; Bonus Question: Elaborate a Defensible Principle of Individuation for Waterfalls

Part of Rob Roy Glacier

Another Part: Need a Bigger Lens!

On the advice of some experienced senior trampers at the Altamont, we drove the 80km west and north of Wanaka (last half unsealed, with six fords) into the Mt. Aspiring NP to do the Rob Roy glacier day hike, out of the Raspberry Creek carpark. The hike took 4-5 hours and was exceptional, certainly the best day hike we have ever done. The trail climbed about a thousand feet, very gradually, through a canyon and then beautiful beech and fern forests, with ongoing views of Aspiring, Rob Roy, the glaciers, and the Rob Roy valley, whose walls featured more high waterfalls than I have ever seen before. The Rob Roy glacier hangs above the trail's terminus, and stretches a great distance. Dozens, scores, of great waterfalls plummet from the glacier and onto the cliffs below. We have seen many glaciers and glacial features, but never one so well put together, scenically, as this.

We got back to the Bongo about 6PM and resolved to “camp” in the carpark...too tired to move on, too enthralled with the surroundings, a really, really special place. (Camping in our case consist of putting up the roof). The Rob Roy valley must cover 60-75 square miles, most of it beautiful well-watered sheep and cattle country. The surrounding mountains are incredible. And Aspiring is at the head of the valley, overlooking it all.

Wanaka in a Day

Well, we did not actually do Wanaka, so to speak, although our stay there, at the Altamont Lodge, was pretty satisfactory. Our morning included blogging, computer and photo maintenance, and the usual hand-washing of our few garments. In the afternoon we walked into town, 2 km, to avail ourselves of the free public library wifi only to find Wanaka is the only library we so far have encountered on the island that does not offer this service. So, after a stint at the cyber-cafe, we walked back to the lodge, taking in the manifold local activities at the parks around the lake: an antique auto show, farmers market, cricket, boating, para-sailing, and the rest. Wanaka is a happening place, said to be sort of a small auxiliary Queenstown. The terrain, from a distance, reminds me much of Montana. Mt. Aspiring and its glaciers and snow summit are off in the distance above Lake Wanaka. My only regret in visiting this place is that the we did not stay at the other backpacker lodge, the Wanakabackapacka.

Lucky Montana's Flying Circus (Para-sailing) Operates from the Shore at Lake Wanaka; a Speed Boat Pulls you Aloft, Hopefully Before Your Feet Get Wet Vicki Wantewd To Ask Lucky Where in Montana He Was From, But He Was Busy With a Young Client My Question Is, If They All Wear White, How Can You Tell the "Yankees" from the "Dodgers"? Lake Wanaka...About the Size of Flathead Lake, I'd Guess