Wednesday, April 29, 2026

E. Dehillerin

The cooking classes completed, it was time to acquire appropriate equipment for baking back home. This required a trip E. Dehillerin, in the 1st, where one goes to buy traditional French cooking equipment in the traditional French way. 

Walking from the Comedie Francaise bus stop to the Bourse...

We assume the bell was to call for manning the barricades
or possibly massacring the Huguenots

Inside E. Dellerins, pretty close to Les Halles; in business
since 1820; has a website...https://www.edehillerin.fr/fr/

Assorted interior ground floor views


Price list, copies posted around the store









Note webbed feet

So, with that mission accomplished, and noticing we were
only a kilometer from a favorite frites joint on the Grands
Boulevards, we set forth on foot, enjoying more sights...

Interior ceiling of the big post office

On Etienne Marcel, near our 2021 apartment in the 2nd





































































On Rue Montmartre















Not as good as real Flemish frites, but good enough; must remember
that one small order would feed a family of four; curry ketchup....



And what trip to get cookware and french fries would be complete
without a stop by Saint-Chapelle?

Our Passion Monuments passes from last year are still valid, so we can
just walk right in...


FYI: the ongoing restorations will be completed in
January, 2027, they say; or whenever they're done...


In Search of Lost Times

Thursday Vicki had her second cooking class, tarts, and while she was busy baking I undertook some travels aimed at recovering lost items, memories, etc. At length, the tarts were the most successful part of the day.

At the La Cuisine Paris...also learning to make Kouign Amann (!!!)









Paris, 1979, in the Opera district, I have found the Cafe Wagner and
(as I remember) a wonderful large lithograph of the street riot accompanying
one of the performances of Tannhauser in 1861...I have been wondering and
sometimes looking for whatever became of the Cafe Wagner ever since;
and this day resolved to look into every cafe along the Avenue de l'Opera...
no luck...nothing...even AI has been relatively unhelpful...so I moved on to the
the epicerie of the Galeries Lafayette and its (second floor!) Cave; spelunking
in France is so much better than anywhere else














Only an hour killed of the three, so I decided to take the long Metro
around to the 11th, Blvd. Voltaire and Rue Charonne, near where our
first Paris apartment, 2014, was located, on Rue de Nice; above, the intersection 
of Voltaire and Charonne, the resto on the right where we had a lunch,
waiting for the apartment to open

























Rue Faidherbe, where Rebecca rented an apartment for two months,
half shared with us, in 2019; still in the 11th, off Rue Charonne



















Family favorite creperie since 2014...


















Septime, still a prestige reservation, where Jeremy and I had a memorable
lunch in 2014

















Still on Rue Charonne, the Emmaus charity shop where I have
scored a few memorable items; charity shops are nearly unheard-of
in France; an institution in the UK...thrifting in France is in the vide
greniers...neighborhood street sales




















Stopping to dip another madeline in my tea, at my personal favorite,
Le Bistrot du Peintre, Charonne and Ledru Rollin; an un-renovated
belle epoche establishment in the heart of the 11th; go there and be
transported...



















After the bistrot, my legs were tiring, and I opted for
a bus to take me back to the cooking school; the bus
dropped me on the Ile St. Louis...

































A few meters from Baudelaire's 1843-45 appartement; some of
Flowers of Evil undoubtedly written here

Having snapped a few gazillion such pix of famous places, I decided it
was time to credit myself...although I rather more enjoyed the tart
morsels shared with me that evening [The Life and Art of Rene' Ssance
can be viewed here]

Tuesday, April 28, 2026

Renoir And Love

Renoir and Love was the major of the two Renoir exhibits at the Orsay this spring, and even at the members-only early openings, it was crowded. The exhibit emphasizes love, friendship, harmony, etc., in Renoir's paintings, 1865-1885. Contemporaneous comparisons with Watteau seemed to me spot on...Watteau mostly painted happy French elites, before The Deluge. But Watteau had his deeper and darker side...Pierrot, and The Embarkation for Cythera. Renoir had no such side in his painting. Yet he lived in an age hardly brighter than Watteau's...the destruction of old Paris for Haussmans's boulevards, the Franco-Prussian War, the Commune...it's a wonder his work, and that of the other Impressionists, is as bright as it was. It was an age of upheaval, scientific, intellectual, and artistic...Darwin, Marx, and Wagner, as Barzun wrote, and an age of social upheaval as well. Renoir's own relationships with women, mostly lower class, models, whose children with him he often did not recognize, belies any sort of harmony. It was exploitation as usual. Yet, for ages, we have enjoyed and loved his work, the color, the feminine images, and still do. Perhaps our escapism was his and his age's as well. (End of rant).

Click, enlarge, read


The Promenade, 1870, "We're all alone, no chaperone can
get our number..."

La Grenouillere, 1869, painting alongside close personal bud Monet

Woman Under an Umbrella in a Garden, 1875; a landscape? I am coming
to the conclusion that it is not a landscape if there is no sky, no horizon...


Confidences, 1875

La Balancoire, 1876...the Swing...perhaps a reference
to Watteau...we walked by the house and garden in Montmartre 
this morning...the house is now the Montmartre Museum, and
for a price you can see lots of art plus the swing

Confidences, 1876-78, girls from the Montmartre streets....
Renoir did not use professional models




Bal du Moulin de la Galette, 1876; Renoir's largest up to this time; a break-through for Impressionism
Real people, not models!


















Moulin de la Galette as we saw it Monday morning














At the Theater, 1876-1877; being seen






The Conversation, 1878; who's doing the talking?

The Reader, 1874-76; Nini Lopez, Renoir's favorite model
of the later 1870s

A Loge at the Opera, 1880

Aline Charigot and Dog, 1880; became his favorite model in the 1880s
whom he finally married after two children; figures most prominently
in Luncheon of the Boating Party; also her dog

The End of the Lunch, 1879; lighting up

Au Bord de l'Eau, 1879-1880; the museum notes this is one of very few
Renoir paintings showing an older man with a child...fatherhood not one
of his things...

The Canoeists, 1875





Star of the show: Luncheon of the Boating Party, 1881; purchased by Duncan Philipps in 1923, and not seen again in Paris until now; returns to the Philipps Collection in DC in August, where I hope maybe to see it again a fourth time; possibly the most important European painting not permanently in Europe; does not travel, except for this very historic occasion































Real people













Danse a Bougeval, 1883

Daughters of Paul Durand-Ruel, 1882

Young Mother, 1881, in Italy

Les Parapluies (Umbrellas); interestingly, the right-
hand side was begun in 1881, the left not until 1885;
the right side rather more family-oriented, the left, not
so much...difference in technique as well...