Friday, August 23, 2024

Return To Temple And The Inns of Court

We visited the Inns of Court and Temple back in 2021, but the church itself was closed due to Covid. We tried again this year, with success, and even managed to find Gray's Inn as well, site of the first known performance of The Comedy of Errors (28 December, 1594, according to the Gesta Grayorum). The significance of this will become clear(er) in due course. The Inns of Court are Britain's national college of law, sort of, at least for the higher echelons of legal practice. My take on them and the British legal system generally is in the 2021 Temple post https://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2021/08/temple-and-inns-of-court.html. Our focus this visit was rather more the Temple, the Templars' 12th century replica of the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. It is important for much more than that, however...

The Temple: the roundish bit is called--imaginatively--the Round,
and functions as the nave; the longish bit serves as the chancel; the 
whole was consecrated in 1185, presided over by the Archbishop of
Jerusalem; the chancel was rebuilt a century later, the Round
renovated and redecorated several times over the centuries,
notably by Christopher Wren, among others; the Round was rebuilt
after German bombs fairly wrecked the place in 1941









The Templars were perhaps the most powerful and wealthy
secular order in the high Middle Ages, feared and envied by
kings and popes, and the Temple was the headquarters of
their London branch













Interior views; it's not huge, but the verticality prohibits fuller
views, especially with my phone's lens













Effigies and such all around, especially from the 13th century,
the height of the Temple's historic importance; reconstructed
after the Blitz, some casts from the V&A



Re-dedication in 1958 attended by the Queen, the Duke,
the Queen Mother, among others; a place sacred in English
history...

View of the chancel

Interpretive signage is everywhere...a few early bits about
the Templars and the Temple, the rest about what happened
here in 1215, and its aftermath

The Temple was King John's London HQ, and it was
here that the barons first presented him with their demands;
his response at the time was basically "Let me get back to
you on that," and they got back to him a few months later at
Runnymede, forcing his signature on the new Magna Carta;
he shortly repudiated it and even had the pope pronounce it
null and void ("under duress"); things got even messier after
that, with new drafts, negotiations, agreements, repudiations,
etc.; happily for everyone else, John died in 1216...






















































































































...and William Marshal, who had been loyal to the king,
took over as regent for the 9 year-old heir Henry III; 
Marshal then decisively blessed the new Magna Carta before
his own death in 1219; and the rest is...





And among the history...quite a few of the signers of the
American Declaration of Independence were alums of
the Inner and Middle Temple Inns of Court 



"Cradle of the Common Law" indeed

Moving right along, we are now walking up Chancery
Lane, looking for Lincoln's Inn and Gray's Inn, and
looking into the legal regalia shops

Lincoln's Inn of the Inns of Court; I think


Now in the courtyard of Gray's Inn, Vicki, who has a nose for libraries,
spots the Gray's Inn library, where they are airing things out; or possibly
something else

After discussion with a few seemingly knowledgeable residents,
we concluded this was the site of the December 28, 1594, first known
performance of Shakespeare's Comedy of Errors, "by a company of
base and common fellows"...

Street scene thereabouts; love old London

Aptly named restaurant for the area...

Right around the corner, on Fleet Street, are the Royal Courts of Justice




Wednesday, August 21, 2024

Not So Many Pix From the V&A And BM

We undertook several return visits to the Victoria and Albert Museum and the British Museum over the last week. We'd seen plenty of both in previous years, especially 2021 and 2022, and so I didn't take very many pix. There are always a few new things, however, and an old friend or two that warrant a retake...

In the Medieval Europe section of the V&A, the Langdale Rosary,
some 93 saints plus the other usual Christian deities, c. 1500; 
gold and inlaid enamel; rosaries were banned in England later that
century...

Triptych with scenes from the Apocalypse, Master Bertram, c. 1380,
German

St. Sebastian, designed by Hans Holbein the Elder,
1497; gold, silver, precious gems

Creep me out department: reliquary bust said to have
contained the head of St. Antigius of Brescius;
1500, gold, silver, the usual; St. Antigius dates from
the 9th century, back before the standardization of 
canonization...what happened to his head is unknown, 
at least by me

Among the most famous items at the V&A, the Edenhall
Goblet, luxury Syrian glass, c. 1350; acquired on a pilgrimage 

The Merode Cup, c. 1400; silver, inset enamel; very
rare


Girdle, c. 1450; a chastity-within-marriage symbol,
it said; gold brocade, silver buckle

The Bear and Boar Hunt, from the Devonshire Tapestries, made in
Arras, France, 1430-1450; four extremely fine and large tapestries,
long in the Devonvshire family, acquired via the death taxes... 

Missal from the Abbey of St.-Denis, 1350





Moving right along, now in the great hall with the
Raphael cartoons for the Sistine Chapel (pictured
elsewhere on this blog, probably more than once), me
snapping a shot of the Altarpiece of St. George, from
Valencia, Spain, late 14th century

Acquired when the church it was in was demolished 

We also visited the fashion section, especially noting the Taylor Swift
outfits, previously posted




Moving even further along, now we are in the British Museum, 
early British collection, admiring this incredible gold cape, dating
from the early Bronze Age, c. 1600-1900BCE, found in Wales, 1833



Iron age slinkies

The Battersea Shield, found in the river near our
flat, La Tene era, pre-Roman Celtic, bronze



Love those Celtic golden torques





The Great Torque, c. 100BCE, said to be one of the most
intricate items of gold from the ancient world; more than
2 lbs in weight



Celtic baseball cap; Romans 27, Druids 0...

Love those Cycladic figures (Greek islands, very ancient)

Now, a real treat...the great reading room from the British Library is
open...first time in all our post-retirement visits to the BM

Rivals the Jefferson, the Richeliu...where Marx went to stay warm
and write Das Kapital

Kim and Vicki, retired librarians


Tuesday, August 20, 2024

London Scenes And Out-Takes, 4

 More walking around...

With John Lennon on Carnaby Street; crucificado?

At the V&A's Taylor Swift gift shoppe

Swiftie foot gear


On a walk in Pimlico or possibly nearby Belgravia

Interesting shops

The right-wing riots here appear to have subsided, possibly
as the government threatened to shut down futbol

En route to Spitalfields market, near the financial bit
of town: a glimpse of the Gherkin, as Londoner call it

Just outside Spitalfields...is this a family restaurant?

Spitalfields, in our estimation, is somewhere between Camden Market
and Borough Market...little brocante but lots of interesting food, bespoke
fashion and accessories

Entertainment at the Covent Garden market

No lack of interesting brocante, collectibles in these precincts

In London's miniscule West End Chinatown

What other blogs don't show you: the aftermath of the
day's work at the Horseguards....

Blackfriars, a famous station on the tube


Up in smoke near the Inns of Court

Air Marshal Dowding, in charge of Fighter Command
during the Battle of Britain

"Bomber" Harris, Bomber Command...WWII will be
remembered someday as the war that ended equestrian
monuments

Sometimes the blue plaques go a bit too far...

Nevermind the cars, trucks, buses...

"Oh joy of joys"...my Tesco Clubcard finally has arrived...
Rule Britannia!