Bariloche, 2

Much of our weekend in Bariloche was spent researching excursions. Bariloche is the gateway to Patagonia but also the capital of Argentina's lake district, providing access as well to Chile's lake district. It took a couple days to research and consider and make reservations, but we decided to do both the "crossing of the Andes" bus/boat trip to Puerto Varas, Chile, and the "seven lakes" excursion to San Martin de los Andes, in Argentina. While all this was under way, we managed to see a bit more of Bariloche and environs. BTW, properly speaking, it's San Carlos de Bariloche. Jan. 20-22.

Crossing the Andes...four buses, three boats...

And after the lake districts, the above...why not do them all?

Bariloche is on Lago Nahuel Huapi; on the eastern slopes of the Andes are many,
many huge mountain lakes; Nahuel Huapi is among these; it reminded us of both
Lake Tahoe and Flathead Lake in Montana; except that Nahuel Huapi is larger and
very largely undeveloped, except at Bariloche; it is a huge, formerly glacial lake

Walking along the shoreline

Pano

Local art

Crafts market

Bariloche plage

Still eating well: a Milanesa (breaded pork or veal, cheese,
tomato)

Another removal! This time to the nice Hosteria Amapolas,
where we stored gear and then spent three more nights

Sculpture above a brew-pub

One day we took bus #20 up to Llao Llao, a hotel of some note, for the views of
Nahuel Huapi and environs

El Tronador, the Thunderer, the volcano and big mountain of the area; the thunder
refers to avalanches of its glaciers

Nahuel Huapi from Llao Llao's golf course

Porta Panuel, from whence we will be taking the catamaran to begin our crossing
of the Andes; and return

The port; fleet's in

Llao Llao; non-patrons are not permitted except with a guide

Where's the protein (beef)? Breakfast spread at Amapolas

Time for one more helado... (alas, not very good)

Bariloche, 1

After delays in flights from Iguazu and then from Buenos Aires, we arrived in Bariloche as the sun set. The street our hostel was on was blocked off and crowded by several hundred younger persons, and each bar on the street seemed to have its own band out on the street, all blaring away. Somehow it all seemed right. Our hostel was billed as a vegan hostel (!). After checking in and unpacking, we headed out to explore and find dinner. Jan. 20-22.

So have you ever wondered what a vegan hostel would be like, especially in this
land of the parilla?

Actually, pretty nice, as hostels go; Commons area

Bath room down the hall

By day

Bands were playing all over the centro historico

These guys were great

After looking around a bit (this in a chocolate store), we noticed it was 10:30
and that the restaurants were beginning to fill up

Picture actually taken at 11PM

Vicki had a stuffed pasta thing whose name we have lost, and I had the trout with
roquefort sauce

Next day we ventured out to see a bit of the town (population 150,000); here a
pano of the centro civica

Robert E. Lee and Traveler emigrated here after Appamattox

In addition to the apparently feral dogs, Bariloche also has a number of traditionally-
attired St. Bernards; for a price you can pose with one; maybe get a shot of brandy
too

My favorite weird tree, the Monkey Puzzle, is native here
and especially across the mountains in Chile

As much as anything else, Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina

Home to some of the largest chocolate store I have seen; and I have seen a few

Life-sized futbols and rabbit; alas, the chocolate was not quite up to our standard;
on the flight down,we had been munching the last of the Caillet Will had brought
us from Geneva...

But they do wonderful gelatos too

Never a lack of mate' kits; love the camo

Not Disney princess, but close; they start kids on mate' before they're potty-trained,
we were told

Iguazu Falls Food And Drink

We ate well during our days in Iguazu Falls. Jan. 17-20.

First night there, river fish for me, on mash; pork chop for Vicki; on mash 

At the mate' store in the park; it was here I later bought my own bolle and straw;
I drink it with sugar...like a child

It's really big, especially in this province, where most of the yerba mate' is produced

At the parilla; not pictured, salad and dessert courses, including a sliced banana in
agave syrup (?) that was exceptional

Free hot water for your mate'; normally it is spelled without
the accent mark

Bags for carrying your own bolle and thermos

Varieties of mate'

Souvenir mate' kit

One of the hand-carried kits

Families often carried jugs of beverage, sometime whole ice
chests

Viva Argentina!

Later the second full day we walked through much of Iguazu Falls town to the
frontier and a great restaurant there; here is one panel of an extensive
installation on phases of identity...

The parilla-meister at Bocamura, cooking our lunch

Table with a view; of the frontier between Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay

Us, there

More river fish, this time buried beneath a tropical mix of mango, pepper, tomato,
onion, other great stuff

Vicki enjoying what the parilla is best known for

Our phone confirming we are indeed at the frontier

Outside seating at Bocamura

From Argentina, the Iguazu, with Paraguay on the left, Brazil on the right
(so the waiter said)

Another pano