Thursday, April 30, 2026

Vide Grenier In the 14th

The closest vide grenier (street sale) Saturday morning was in the 14th, a nice walk along the Luxembourg Garden and its panhandle toward the observatory...many buildings and monuments of interest, plus a decent collection of curiosities and wonders at the street sale.

The area is mixed residential and University of Paris campus...here,
greenhouses for pharmacology, health sciences; note the background
building, also U of P, and its array of chimneys...

Known as the most curious building in Paris, the University's Institute of
Art and Archaeology, designed by Paul Bigot in 1920, has been compared
to a synagogue, a hammam, a kasbah, the Alhambra, the Baths of
Diocletian...all probably welcomed by the architect and faculty; the brick
one sees in Paris is usually ornamental; here it entirely clads a concrete
structure; a terra cotta frieze runs the base of the building, depicting a 
variety of famous art/archaeological scenes 

Physical therapy for your pet

Much assorted sculpture along the way...hey, it's France!





Pin traders at the street sale


Why don't they do smart phones like this?





Vincent himself might have been fooled...even the original, at the
Getty, lacks the characteristic "Vincent" signature

Reminder to do this with my (father's) cane...

All over London, and in any touristic spot in the UK, one
sees the "look right" signs...everywhere; this is the first 
relevantly similar sign we have seen in France...since 1979

More to see on the way back home...including this Belle Epoche/
Pompidou curiosity...the contortions you have go through to get
central AC?

Wednesday, April 29, 2026

E. Dehillerin

The cooking classes completed, it was time to acquire appropriate equipment for baking back home. This required a trip E. Dehillerin, in the 1st, where one goes to buy traditional French cooking equipment in the traditional French way. 

Walking from the Comedie Francaise bus stop to the Bourse...

We assume the bell was to call for manning the barricades
or possibly massacring the Huguenots

Inside E. Dellerins, pretty close to Les Halles; in business
since 1820; has a website...https://www.edehillerin.fr/fr/

Assorted interior ground floor views


Price list, copies posted around the store









Note webbed feet

So, with that mission accomplished, and noticing we were
only a kilometer from a favorite frites joint on the Grands
Boulevards, we set forth on foot, enjoying more sights...

Interior ceiling of the big post office

On Etienne Marcel, near our 2021 apartment in the 2nd





































































On Rue Montmartre















Not as good as real Flemish frites, but good enough; must remember
that one small order would feed a family of four; curry ketchup....



And what trip to get cookware and french fries would be complete
without a stop by Saint-Chapelle?

Our Passion Monuments passes from last year are still valid, so we can
just walk right in...


FYI: the ongoing restorations will be completed in
January, 2027, they say; or whenever they're done...


In Search of Lost Times

Thursday Vicki had her second cooking class, tarts, and while she was busy baking I undertook some travels aimed at recovering lost items, memories, etc. At length, the tarts were the most successful part of the day.

At the La Cuisine Paris...also learning to make Kouign Amann (!!!)









Paris, 1979, in the Opera district, I have found the Cafe Wagner and
(as I remember) a wonderful large lithograph of the street riot accompanying
one of the performances of Tannhauser in 1861...I have been wondering and
sometimes looking for whatever became of the Cafe Wagner ever since;
and this day resolved to look into every cafe along the Avenue de l'Opera...
no luck...nothing...even AI has been relatively unhelpful...so I moved on to the
the epicerie of the Galeries Lafayette and its (second floor!) Cave; spelunking
in France is so much better than anywhere else














Only an hour killed of the three, so I decided to take the long Metro
around to the 11th, Blvd. Voltaire and Rue Charonne, near where our
first Paris apartment, 2014, was located, on Rue de Nice; above, the intersection 
of Voltaire and Charonne, the resto on the right where we had a lunch,
waiting for the apartment to open

























Rue Faidherbe, where Rebecca rented an apartment for two months,
half shared with us, in 2019; still in the 11th, off Rue Charonne



















Family favorite creperie since 2014...


















Septime, still a prestige reservation, where Jeremy and I had a memorable
lunch in 2014

















Still on Rue Charonne, the Emmaus charity shop where I have
scored a few memorable items; charity shops are nearly unheard-of
in France; an institution in the UK...thrifting in France is in the vide
greniers...neighborhood street sales




















Stopping to dip another madeline in my tea, at my personal favorite,
Le Bistrot du Peintre, Charonne and Ledru Rollin; an un-renovated
belle epoche establishment in the heart of the 11th; go there and be
transported...



















After the bistrot, my legs were tiring, and I opted for
a bus to take me back to the cooking school; the bus
dropped me on the Ile St. Louis...

































A few meters from Baudelaire's 1843-45 appartement; some of
Flowers of Evil undoubtedly written here

Having snapped a few gazillion such pix of famous places, I decided it
was time to credit myself...although I rather more enjoyed the tart
morsels shared with me that evening [The Life and Art of Rene' Ssance
can be viewed here]