Still More Bruges Scenes

We still had some hours left in Bruges, between our Sint Jan Hospital visit and our Flixbus ride to Ghent, so we saw a few more sights, tied up a few loose ends, etc.

First, a hike over to the city hall and the adjoining Basilica of the Holy 
Blood

There was a festive air at the former, easily explained by the wedding
get-away car; a Triumph model I don't recall ever seeing before

Interior of the Basilica of Holy Blood: a crusader came
back from the sack of Constantinople with a vial certified
to be the blood of Christ, preserved by Joseph of Arimethea

The Papal Bull of 1310 said that the blood re-liquified at noon on
Fridays, but this happened only once, with an alleged recurrence
in 1388

The church--actually two, an upper (Gothic) and a lower
(Romanseque)--dates from the 12th century and originally
was the chapel of the Counts of Flanders; the city hall was
their palace

Oddest pulpit we've yet seen

Altar, etc.

You can view the vial of holy blood over in a side
chapel, as Vicki is doing here; the vial is actually a
12th century Byzantine rock crystal perfume bottle;
I imagine the merchants of Constantinople laughed
for decades about how gullible the conquering
Crusaders were

Back outside, today's wedding photo: "everybody smile" or at
least look at the camera

Now we are in the Romanesque chapel, unchanged
since its building

Capitals but no funny faces

Bullet-proof donation box

Moving right along, we are now in the city hall, looking
at a painting of the lord high mayor welcoming Napoleon
to Bruges; Napoleon was no doubt disappointed to learn
that the French Revolutionary armies had already looted
the city of all its art treasures; they all would be returned
in 1815, however

Relatively nearby, Bruges' monument to Jan van Eyck

It's a beautiful place, but there is a certain monotony of
architecture here; we looked in vain for a single art nouveau
or art deco structure

Sic transit, Gloria: this chapel is now...

The frites museum

Our last stop was the city's cathedral, that of San
Salvator

Nice Gothic

In the original chapel

We would have liked to tarry, but it was time to go to Ghent

Sint Jan's Hospital, Bruges

St. John's Hospital in Bruges dates from 1150--it was chartered in 1188--and served as Bruges' main hospital for some centuries. Its service as a museum, both of health care and earlier Flemish art, dates from 1977, although a number of its art works have resided there for centuries as well. It is most famous for its collection of works--portraits, diptychs and triptychs--by Hans Memling, who flourished toward the end of the 15th century, two generations after van Eyck. Memling was a student of Rogier van der Weiden, another Flemish master, whose works we also admire. Much of the museum is devoted to the history of health care, although as some observe, health care in the Middle Ages was rather more concerned with spiritual health. I am sparing you the many exhibits of gruesome surgical instruments and such, but recommend watching "Theodoric of York: Medieval Barber," for deeper insight.

Entrance to giant old main hall

We have visited Medieval hospitals in Angers and most famously
in Beaune and other places, all impressive for their great age, size,
and benevolence

Of course, on your sick (or death) bed, it would always be helpful
to be reminded of the Good Samaritan (Anonymous, 16th)

Another Anonymous, with Trinity, hospital nun, and patron saint

Helpful map of the complex (many wards, apothecary, dorms for
priests, nuns, et al.)

Part of the main hall

Jan Baptiste Beerbock, View of the St. John's Infirmary, 1778

EMS vehicle

Memling, St. John Altarpiece, 1479; commissioned by the hospital;
been there ever since; details to follow

Memling, Diptych of the Virgin and Child and of Maarten van
Nieuwenhove, 1487; Memling was especially known for his portraits,
which were much in demand in Italy

Memling, Portrait of a Young Woman, 1480

Memling, Lamentation of Christ on Golgotha, 1480; aka The Triptych
of Adriaan Reins; notable, especially for...

This back-panel depiction of St. Mary of Egypt

Memling, Adoration of the Magi, 1479

Now in the hospital chapel, examining the choir seating...looking,
as always, for misericordia...

In the chapel

Shrine of St. Ursula, featuring scenes of her life, by Memling...
miniatures, by his standard, but exquisite miniatures

St. Ursula with the 11,000 virgins; Memling painted
only the first 11...

I'll spare you the intermediary details (I probably
posted them in 2013 or 2015); needless to
say, it did not end well for the 11,001 virgins, at
least temporally

Back now for a few details from the St. John triptych;
things not going well for that St. John

St. John the Evangelist getting inspired

Standard symbols and icons from the Book of Hallucinations,
aka Revelations 

Finally, another of Memling's biggest hits is the Moreel Triptych, 1484,
which I neglected to post from the Groeningemuseum, offered here
in penance

In Search of Decent Fries In Bruges

As students of this blog know, we are admirers of Flemish fries, and will go out of our way to try anything that sounds remotely Belgian or Netherlandish in the fries realm. Candidly, our recent experience in Paris was mostly unimpressive, except for les Relais d'Entrcote, but we figured Bruges would be a snap for good Flemish fries. We consulted Google and also our landlord and, after our Groeningemuseum visit, found something called Mr. Potato (or somesuch) and got the last two seats in this evidently very popular friterie, out somewhat beyond the touristy zone. We sat at the counter, ringside seats, watching the preparation of Flemish frites with eager anticipation. 

Patatamobil

Inside the restaurant delivery truck

Shaking the frites after their 2nd frying...alas, they
were disappointing, a larger cut than we're accustomed
to, lacking flavor, a bit too crispy on the outside...plus
this friteur only offered four (4) sauces; most Low
Country types eat their fries with mayo; the friteries
we know in Amsterdam and elsewhere will offer a dozen
or more sauces; oh well, we left, not hungry, but feeling
our quest was not at its end

Wandering on, in search of a recommended chocolate
shop, noting ever more beautiful buildings

Near it was the local McDonald's (cue foreshadowing music)

The chocolate shop, where we stimulated the local
economy

Alley scene

Corner scene

Etc.

Helpful model of the Bruges tower

Attempted pano of the city square

It's a long story, involving a restaurant that couldn't find our reservation
(finally seated us after I showed them their confirmation on my phone),
wanted 10 euros for a liter of water (refused to serve carafe d'eau; in
Paris you often don't even have to ask), had a disappointing listing of
beer offerings, and was a prime example of Bruges' "stick it to 'em"
attitude to tourists...we left, and finally ended up at McDos--first time
since August, 2023--where we enjoyed the best frites we have had
recently, with curry sauce, and even

 

A 1 euro can of beer

The Bruges McDo