Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Pisa, Other Bits

From Cimaterie we moved on to other parts of the Field of Miracles...

Helpful model; the cimaterie is the rectangular building

Facade of the cathedral





















































Sculpture detail

One of the oldest around, Pisan Romanesque

Coffered ceiling

Another Pisano pulpit

Hellish detail

Swirling dome

Pancake-eater; I mean Pantokrator

Klimt Queen of Heaven

Annunzio

Abaft the beam view to stern

Alas, our tickets did not include the Baptistry, which was OK since we'd already
had plenty of excitement for the day

Recycling of building materials

Our tickets did include the museum, so we had a look at the various synopia,
this of Aquinas' universe (OK, I know I have posted this before)

And others

Fortunately, P was off watching the video on the repair of the leaning tower and
so was not exposed to this exposure

Pisa, The Cimaterie, And Buffalmacco

After lunch we still had more of the Field of Miracles to do. My favorite place there is the cemetery and its giant and very old Buffalmacco fresco cycle. Penelope, turning eight years old, is not keen on cemeteries, but relented when we explained, well, it was really more of a museum than a cemetery (sort of true) and conditionally approved her proposal that we celebrate her impending birthday while on our little trip (we would not be with her on the actual day). The cemetery is a huge old building around a courtyard. It's all indoors, sort of, and thus the survival of some very old and important frescoes. Chief among these are Buffalmacco's Judgement and Triumph of Death. They date from the 1330s, when Buffalmacco was active. He was a generation younger than Giotto, though obviously influenced by him; and Dante; a contemporary of Petrarch and Boccacio. Vasari wrote of him two centuries later, although none of the works he attributes to Buffalmacco have survived.

What I find so durned innerestin' is the intersections of intellectual history, art, literature, etc. The Triumph of Death theme is from Petrarch, I've read. Buffalmacco, a bit of a prankster as well as a painter, figures in three of  the Decameron's stories. In the Triumph, Buffalmacco depicts 10 (count 'em) young persons off in the countryside, avoiding the city. The frescoes were done a decade before the Black Death. Coincidence? I don't think so. Anyhow, it's fun to wonder about such apparent interactions between writers and artists. Nothing should be very surprising since they were all Renaissance persons, so to speak, with multiple interests, and that Florence, Pisa, and other parts of the story are not very far apart. But I digress.
I should add that all these work are on the enormous side, 12x30 feet, I'd guess;
this one concerns hermits and the various attractions of asceticism...

The Inferno part of the Judgment; we'll visit the Scrovegni Chapel in a few days
and see the similarities between Buffalmacco's hell and Giotto's

Hot tub detail
























































Interesting digestive tract

Less lurid part of Judgement

Part of Triumph of Death; the 10 young people are in the lower right; did
Boccacio get his idea from this?!

Other part: it's just too damned big!

Vasari thought Buffalmacco's habit of inserting text into the paintings was a cheap
trick; a child of his age, methinks

Aerial combat in the Battle for Souls

Judgment detail

Interior courtyard of Cimaterie; original soil from the Holy Land, courtesy of
St. Helen, Constantine's mom

Leonardo of Pisa is still there; I tried to interest P in the
Fibonacci numbers, but she needs a bit more math...

She also does not know who Casper the Friendly Ghost is

Other assorted huge very old frescoes throughout the building

Thus

Helpful model of the universe, according to Aquinas; it's a Dominican sort of
place; but a wonderful place

Monday, April 29, 2019

With Penelope In Pisa: The Tower

After Lucca, we drove on to Pisa and found the municipal sosta (camper-stop, aire de camping-cars, stellplatz) without much difficulty. Next morning, we walked the kilometer or so into town and the Field of Miracles. Penelope was pretty excited about seeing the Leaning Tower, and even more so on being told Grandma had procured tickets for me and P to climb it. The Tower's lean, even after years of treatment and correction, is still pretty pronounced, but P got right into line and charged right up the stairs...until it was clear Grandpa required a somewhat slower pace. The pix tell most of the story.
I don't think we'd ever driven into Pisa from the east; the road for some miles
follows the pretty-much intact Roman aquaduct

Next morning, en route to the Field of Miracles, admiring the wisteria

Leaning Tower

Ground-up view, while in line

Interior view up to the top

The climb spirals entirely inside the walls, finally emerging at the penultimate
and ultimate levels; view of nearby mountains 

The cathedral and baptistry beyond

Field of Miracles

On the penultimate level

Looking down to where Grandma is taking a photo of us


























































































































































































Thus

























Ussie, about to summit



Well-worn stairs

Now on the summit floor


A bit of Pisa

Pretty much the spot where I photographed her mom and
aunt way back in 1989


Looking down through the oculus

Obligatory tourist shot before pizza lunch and gelato