El Caminito

Fortified by our lunch, we ventured on into La Boca, another old barrio, to see El Caminito, a neighborhood of brightly painted and corrugated buildings, something of an artist colony, now something of a tourist trap. BA's answer to Pigeon Forge, we thought.

Haven't see this sort of thing since Istanbul; of course, in the
US people live in containers this size

Approaching El Caminito

There

Tango on display

Monument to firemen

Vicki showing her devotion (putting a coin in
the box); we're still waiting to hear how we can
use the plenary dispensations we earned at
St. Pierre's church in Antakya (Antioch); see
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com.ar/2010/10/
another-day-another-cave-st-pierres-in.html

Having gotten the gist, we walked on to the harbor

And took a taxi across town, in the rain

Past more of impressive BA...

Parilla!

Having done the market, we were hungry, and in the mood for the other Argentine national pastime (not futbol), grilled meat. Average beef consumption in Argentina is 119 lbs. Chicken and pork and fish are considered vegetables. We wanted to avoid the tourist parillas in Recoleta and so headed for Desnivel, a neighborhood parilla of some note in Telmo. The real thing.

Thus

Use of cutlery is an extra 20 pesos; but it tastes better ripped
apart by hand...

In addition to the Malbec (obligatoire) I had the national
cocktail, Fernet Branca in Coke; worst thing I have ever put
in my mouth; but, hey, it's a cocktail..

Ceiling decor

Other decor

Where the action is

By the door, the real action

Viva Argentina!

The bread is served on a leather tray; lots of leather in this
country

A simple lunch: Vicki has the chorizo, I have the luomo; and
frites

Proper garlic/parsley frites; not the powdered crap

No need for doggie bags as we stagger/waddle away...

Buenos Aires' Telmo Market

Telmo is one of BA's oldest neighborhoods, and on Sundays it holds a large outdoor market, block after block, mostly crafts, and no crap, leading to the weekly antique market at Plaza Dorrego. Our kind of thing, and another 20,000+ step day.

Another old colonial church, leaving the Plaza Mayor

Never miss a poetry bar

Telmo not as classy at Recoleta, but no less interesting

In the street market

Bass jungle flutes, incredible depth, tone

Fire stove incense burners, handmade

Music everywhere

Antique seltzer bottles

Adjoining the Plaza Dorrego

Frida Kahlo, one of the most photographed
women of her time, still an irresistible image

Off the Plaza, another old colonial

Local boy makes good Papa

Back in the Plaza, they were playing the slow movement from
Rodrigo's Concerto Aranjuez; if that doesn't put you in the mood,
what would?

Tango!

Our first full day in Buenos Aires ended with a tango performance at the Borges Center. No pix were allowed during the show, but I did get a few at the end. Needless to say, the performance was fascinating and exhilarating, although I doubt Vicki and I will be taking it up this late in life. We had gotten decent at swing a decade ago, but that was before joint replacement, mal de debarquement, etc.

This dude was not in the show but did enjoy
handing out programs and modeling his heels

I was struck with how much more work, and risk, the female
dancers undertake 

There were six dancers, two vocalists, and band of four; a
pretty thrilling experience