Saturday, August 6, 2016

Stowe House: Sic Transit, Gloria

In its day, spanning the Georgian to Victorian periods, Stowe was one of England's greatest houses, rivaling Blenheim and the other greatest specimens. The Temple...Grenville family accumulated great wealth via military and political service, and lusted after the highest of titles, that of duke. This they finally achieved in 1823, from George IV, flip-flopping for his benefit from Whig to Tory. By the mid-1840s, the 2nd duke had run up debts of 100 million pounds, was called "the greatest debtor in the world," and Stowe, as well as the many other houses and estates of the Temple...Grenville family was slowly sinking beneath the waves. In 1848, everything not bolted nor cemented down was sold. The forests of one of England's grandest and most historic landscape gardens were logged. In 1922, the last family owner of Stowe sold it for 50,000 pounds to an individual who simply wished to avoid seeing the great house turned into a quarry. From him, it passed to the incipient Stowe School, which has spent most of the past century valiantly seeing to the preservation and renovation of the place. The vast gardens came to the National Trust in 1989, and are being returned to their former majesty. Recounting Stowe's history more than this is beyond my skill or time, but the interested reader--and it is an interesting story--can refer easily to one of Wikipedia's longest entries, "Stowe House."
Stowe House, southern view















From the house looking to the great Corinthian Arch and beyond to the town of
Stowe; don't miss the flanking Doric temples

Closer up, south side

Closer up of the north side and one of its colossades

Viscount Cobham, owned Stowe 1697-1749, and was chiefly responsible for its
building


2nd Earl Temple, owner, 1749-1779

The place is now a fairly elite coed private school (US private), you understand;
we were fortunate to be there between sessions and to enjoy a fairly full tour of
the house

In the library; Stowe's vast collection of books and manuscripts was sold in 1848;
this is the school library!

In one of the renovated great rooms

Oculus in the Grand Saloon, modeled after the Pantheon

Thus; perhaps the most opulent of all the great halls; Queen Victoria is said to have
been repulsed (repelled?) by Stowe's opulence

Look in the center and you'll see a tennis ball left in place as a memorial to the
time when the schoolboys had a fuller run of the place

Augustus now presides over the bar (an event of some sort had
occurred the previous evening)

In the lunchroom

Cafeteria service area

We couldn't help notice one of the school's honored graduates, Christopher Robin
Milne, whose life at Stowe was one of relentless torment from his schoolmates,
we were told; I've been reading a good bit of the Pooh-corpus to Penelope and
have often thought of Dorothy Parker's famous review of Milne ("Tonstant weader
fwowed up"); Christopher Robin went on to Cambridge, we see

Notice of sale of Stowe's contents
More; thus passes the glory of the world, Gloria

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Erdigg House: The Gardens

The gardens at Erdigg were constructed in the early 1700s, in the formal style prevalent at the time, before the influence of Culpability Brown. The Yorkes included not a few antiquarians and somehow maintained the older regime through the Georgian and Victorian eras. By the time the gardens came to the National Trust, they were a mess, but ample historical documentation permitted a brilliant reconstruction, and what one sees today is very much like the original plan.
A bit of the history
















Thus
















Today's head gardener's notes



Obligatory tiki hut

Worth a second look






Virtually every National Trust site has a kiddie park; and
attendant humor





History of one of our favorite plants
















Thus




Today's wedding photo





Great gardens

Erdigg House: The Great, The Good, And The, Um, Interesting

Shorter version: WWI was not kind to the Yorke family nor the house. In 1922, Simon Yorke, eldest son, inherited the place. He disconnected the electricity and phones, reduced the already reduced staff, forbade wheeled traffic on the estate (even prams), and lived for 40 years as a relative hermit. Interesting. Sometimes, this is how things get preserved. (Getting buried under volcanic ash also works). He died in 1966 and was succeeded by Peter Yorke, III, who is the hero of the story. He garnered support from many sources to put things aright, and it was he who gave the estate, and its incredible collection, to the National Trust in 1973. Below are a few of many pix of the upstairs, so to speak, a few with commentary.



Recently restored Victorian home organ

The tubular bells; guests were summoned to full breakfast
(9:30AM), luncheon (1PM), afternoon tea (5PM), warning
to be dressed for dinner (7PM), and dinner (8PM), each
with a different tune played on the bells




Waste not, want not...the legs here are from a disused bed


The V&A examined and restored the state bedroom and returned it to
Erdigg  on the condition it be displayed behind glass and in controlled light/
temp/humidity...said to be the 2nd best-preserved state bedroom in the Nation




Moving right along...a Victorian shower 




















Now in the play room

Thus

Doll house; note same Steiff bear we saw in Ireland

Noah's Ark set

In the chapel

A display room of Victorian oddities and curiosities

Another National Trust gem