Saturday, August 15, 2015

Abbey Church of St. Ouen, 1

We had never been to the abbey church of St. Ouen in previous visits to Rouen. It's a few blocks off the beaten path and presumably not high on the tourist itinerary. Besides, purist that I am, I would not normally have been attracted to yet another 14th century flamboyant. Would I have been wrong!

Although "only" an abbey church, St. Ouen is a particularly fine example of the theology/architecture of height and light. "God is light." Although not as high as, for example, Amiens, St. Ouen has far more light than any Gothic we have seen. A variety of features come together to emphasize the light. One is the white limestone material throughout. Another is the austerity, the relative lack of ornamentation inside. Most important, however, are the windows. St. Ouen realizes the Gothic ideal of maximizing glass. There are more than 4,300 square meters of glass. All of this 14th century original glass was removed prior to WWII and is back in place now. The triforium is glazed, and therefore the walls are glass nearly from the ground all the way to the roof. The windows themselves are huge and are only partially stained/painted, contributing again to maximizing the light, at least as compared with the high Gothics.
St. Ouen abbiale church; the abbey is gone; the building next door is Rouen's
Hotel de Ville

















South side view




















Looking up toward the central tower
















South-side nave; note the windows, floor to ceiling
















Remains of cloister, north-side
















Relatively minor sculpture...austerity...here the south door tympanum

















Nave view
















Nave view closer in
















Elevation...windows, windows, windows




















Standard 4-part ribbed ceiling in nave




















Crossing
















Stern and organ and rose window




















Transept




















Other transept



















At Pascaline, A Final French Meal

For lunch our second day Vicki chose a busy bistro, Pascaline, downtown. We got there somewhat early and enjoyed a leisurely lunch in a crowded old restaurant.
Vicki checks out the menu
















Remains of the terrine de canard (Vicki had the salad bits)
















My cuisine de cochon...
















Vicki's mijote de veau, sort of a veal stew
















Her raspberry tartlet
















Normally we order an entree and plat and a plat and dessert and
split the entree and the dessert; but I have become fond of ile
flottant and had to have my own


















Nice place, Normandy food mostly, and reasonable


Saint-Maclou

The second of Rouen's hat trick of famous late Gothics is Saint-Maclou parish church, only a couple blocks from the Cathedral. Maclou is a great specimen of flamboyant Gothic. Alas, it is open only a few days of the week and not the day we were there. Nonetheless, here are a few shots from the exterior.
Saint-Maclou




















Thus




















Judgement
















Hellish detail
















Excruciating Hellish detail
















Doors




















Holy Circumcision

Rouen Cathedral

Rouen Cathedral is a mostly flamboyant Gothic, parts of it built from the late 13th century to the 14th, with frequent repairs, renovations, etc., owing to lightning, fires, wars of religion, nation, and ideology. Despite great suffering--seven RAF bombs fell on the building in 1943, and four more US bombs in 1944--the cathedral still stands and is certainly one of the great ones. Especially as immortalized by Monet.
West facade
















The TI now owns the building where Monet rented rooms
















An easel marks the spot
















A bit of the exceptional sculptural program
















A Jesse Tree
















Nave view
















Elevation




















South transept




















Crossing, under the tower
















North transept, stars leading to Bibliotech




















View abaft the beam




















William Long Sword, son of William (or was it Rollo?)
















Rollo himself
















Nice windows, some old, some Chartres blue
















Thus




















Fishmongers' window




















Thus
















Thus, up closer
















Is anybody else warm in here?




















Judgement without God
















Nice Hell
















Original angel/devil on shoulder