Pere Lachaise, encore

I met younger daughter Rachel at CDG early Monday morning and brought her back to the apartment. Her approach to jet lag, and most peoples' coming this way, is to fight through it as long as possible, stay up as close as possible to one's normal bed-time, and then, hopefully, get on a regular schedule sooner than later. For the fighting-through-it phase, we recommended a visit to the ever-popular and ever-fun Pere Lachaise cemetery, only a few blocks from our apartment, beautifully landscaped, quiet (except near the Jim Morrison site), stimulating in so many ways...not in anyone's top-10 Paris list, but in nearly everyone's top-20 or top-50. Although concerned about getting creeped-out, she agreed, and we made our--what?--4th or 5th visit to Pere Lachaise. We are actually learning our way around.

I love the fact it is on Rue de Repos

There are sites of great historical and cultural importance

Reminders that not all deaths are quiet and of little moment
(unless you're the one dying)

Oscar Wilde's tomb remains, I think, the most visited and revered at PL

Among the love letters for Wilde; his tomb is all behind glass, like the Mona Lisa

And the so-sad lines inscribed there

PL is also an architectural fashion show with neo-classical,
Gothic, not a lot of Art Nouveau, but here also a bit of Art
Deco

Street scene

The trees are beautiful and create shade, but there are other consequences...

Before it's all over, I will do a post on PL's creepiest/
goofiest tombs

Rachel was sort of creeped-out by this one; fortunately it was
at the end of our tour

Pere Lachaise closes at dusk; and they really want people to stay out

Une journée dans la 5ème et 6ème arrondissements

Sunday we spent in the 5th and 6th arrondissements, heading for an important rendezvous, but taking time for a little sight-seeing along the way.

We got off the Metro at Place Monge and immediately found ourselves in a
good neighborhood

A few minutes' walk took us to the Pantheon, and adjacent to
it, the church of St. Etienne du Mont (we'll see the Pantheon
later)

Knave view of this very interesting 16th century
Flamboyant/Renaissance church

What you come here to see, if you're merely into art and architecture and
history, is the beautifully-carved stone rood screen, the last surviving in Paris

There's also the 1631 organ case, oldest in Paris

A bit of the unusual elevation, with catwalks and gangplanks

In the chancel

Among other worthies buried here is the philosopher Pascal,
famous, among other things, for his Wager (look it up); he lost

More of the screen

If you're devout, you come here for the remains and relics of 
St. Genevieve, patron saint of Paris; her remains and relics 
were tossed into the sewers of Paris in the Revolution, but, 
of course, miraculously found and put back together

Moving right along, we walked again through Luxembourg Gardens

Past many other interesting sights

Including the weekly roller skate parade through the Latin Quarter

To holy ground for philosophers and writers, on the Boulevard Saint Germaine

And a wonderful rendezvous with Marc and Pat Johnson at Les Deux Magots;
Marc was chair of the Idaho Humanities Council and then chair of the board of
the Federation of State Humanities Councils, all during my time in the humanities
in Montana; a great friend and a real public servant; so good to see them here in
Paris

Le Marmottan Monet Musée

Saturday, after visiting the local market, Boulevard Charonne, we finally got to the Marmottan Monet Museum, the largest collection of Monet works, and also of Berthe Morisot works, but also presently featuring an exhibit of many Impressionist paintings from private collections around the world. Les impressionistes en privee. The place was packed--Saturday afternoon, duh--but certainly delivered both on the fame and quality and extensiveness of the collections. This was a no fotos place, and, in view of the crush of humanity, etc., we pretty much complied. Pretty much.

On the way, Place de la Nation, a view I like very much

Musee Marmottan Monet

One Vicki really liked 

Bras de Seine a Giverny--one we both really liked

Impression, soleil levant--the picture that gave Impressionism its name; well,
a hostile critic helped; Monet had spent 1870-71 in London and, no doubt, had
seen a few Turners; the Marmottan has a decent website and gallery, and much
else to look at...

Journée dans le 16e arrondissement

Thursday we had planned an ambitious walk in the 16th, taking in sights there, concluding our quest for the Eau de Paris carafe we wanted, and finishing up with a visit to the Marmottan Monet museum and its exhibition of Impressionist paintings from private collections around the world. As we got finally to La Muette, close to the museum, the hour was late, our feet were tired, and we decided we'd save Impressionism for another day.

We Metro'd to the Passy bridge, now the Pont Bir-Hakeim
(a WWII battle in North Africa), which is Paris' only bridge
over the Seine to carry motor vehicles, trains, and pedestrians

Also has some pretty nice sculpture

Some of the walk took us along the Allee des Cygnes, a former dike, now
beautifully landscaped and situated; out in the middle of the river

On the Allee, looking back to the Viaduc de
Passy and a Metro crossing it; and the Eiffel
Tower

A large river cruiser moored beneath the high-rises; a helium balloon with
tourist-laden gondola rises in the distance...

We are not the only people taking pictures here

Exercise area under a bridge across the Allee

Complete with four rock-climbing walls

At the end of the island, the original model for the Statue
of Liberty

At length, we got to the Pavilion of Water and its boutique of Eau de Paris
carafes and other goodies; the Pavilion is mostly a large and impressive
center for water and environmental education

Resuming our walk...wait a second...we've been here before

Indeed, Castel Beranger, which we saw in 2012

Still looking for a Hector Guimard tour of Paris, although I think we have seen
most of his stuff

Le Camembert, French national radio headquarters

In Proust country still

Although it's Balzac's house we're close to

I read Pere Goriot when I was in high school; that was enough Balzac

Admiring the architecture near La Muette

I don't think we're in Kansas anymore...

Friday was an administrative day, and that evening we entertained Janice, one
of Vicki's high school friends, who was passing through...