Friday, May 23, 2014

Bastille, du Marais, et au-delà

Thursday Vicki, Marie, and I took a walk down Rue de Charonne to the Bastille and then along Rue St. Antoine into the Marais and nearby precincts, ending up finally at the Hotel de Ville. Our apartment is about 2 miles from the center of the city.
The Bastille has been a site of rallies, protests,
demonstrations, etc., since, um, 1789; today's
rally was for railway worker solidarity; the
smoke is mostly from their grills and BBQs






















Closer up; the animal rights folk also were there, but hanging
back a bit
















Beaumarchais, "playwright, watchmaker, 
inventor, musician, diplomat, fugitive, spy, 
publisher, horticulturalist, arms dealer,  
satirist, financier, and revolutionary (both 
French and American" (Wikipedia)
bemusedly looks on, from a distance; he's
already seen it all

























From the area of the Bastille the shoppes keep getting
trendier and more exclusive; the facades are often of the
stores of yesterday, which, thankfully, have mostly been
preserved and maintained

















In the Place des Vosges; beautiful shoppes, restaurants,
galleries
















Wrote most of his biggest hits right here















In one of the galleries















So I have now figured out this is a chain; and it is my job to
inspect for consistency among the many Paris branches...
















Hotel Sully















Obligatory stop for a family favorite




















Sic transit, Gloria; a boulangerie for decades, perhaps, and
now...
















In the old Jewish district, Hector Guimard's
1913 Art Nouveau synagogue





















Thus; we'll be seeing lots more Guimard















More sic transit...once a Hammami, now COS




















Once a famous deli















Not a boulangerie anymore















Also not a boulangerie anymore















I wonder what the Pompidiou will be a century from now...















Will it stand the test of time like the the Hotel de Ville?















Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Plus randonnée divers

So after Saint-Denis and lunch at a creperie, we Metro'd to the Champs de Mars to begin reconnoitering a bus tour for future visitors...#69, which runs from the 7th to the 11th along the river mostly, passes by many of the best-known sights, and ends up a few blocks from our apartment.
Shell game; authentique















La grosse vilaine chose




















Closer up















Vicki, née McCoy, poses before an epicerie Americaine in the 7th

Monday, May 19, 2014

Paris scènes, cinq: Basilique de Saint-Denis

Our set is complete! Over the past several years we have visited virtually all of the great French Gothic cathedrals. And then some. But, despite its great historic importance, we had been saving Saint-Denis for a visit to Paris--it is in the outskirts. And now we are here, and, with Norm and Marie in tow, we made our final pilgrimage, finally. Saint-Denis is generally recognized as the birthplace of what came to be known as Gothic. (It was also the burial place of French royalty, until they discontinued the royalty thing.) Saint-Denis is a bit of a hodge-podge, Suger's original narthex and chancel, a 13th-14th century nave (with glazed triforium!), and windows that are pretty much all modern. But it's Suger's 12th century innovation--combining elements mostly in existence already in the Romanesque, here and there--that attracts and rewards. Great height and light, glass, incredibly thin walls, pointy arches, buttressing. No one else had yet strung all those pearls together.
Facade; scaffolding; earlier, there were two non-symmetrical
tours; the north one dismantled for safety reasons...





















Sculpture on the left tympanum; the others covered up for the preservation work
















What's visible of the narthex




















Nave elevation; glazed triforia! a big innovation in the 13th century
















Nave view















Chancel, the oldest part















Choir, from a Normandy chateau...the originals no doubt burned in the Revolution
















Some of the royal burial stuff; the custom then was to depict the depictee in
life (gloriously) above and in death below
















Royal marble morgue















North rose window















Spare parts















Exterior elevation




















Ambulatory















Chancel view




















Play of light

Paris scènes, quatre: Montmartre

Marie and Norm arrived Saturday night, and on Sunday we were off again, briefly visiting Pere Lachaise and then longer at Montmartre. It was a beautiful sunny day, and it seemed all of Paris was out to enjoy the weather and the sites.
At Pere Lachaise: "Hi-Yo, Silver!"




















At Pere Lachaise, another curiosity















Moving right along Metro Line #2














Best gelato ever, so far, seriously: Amorino's, in Montmartre















Pistachio, we have been told, is the flavor that separates the
great gelatos from the merely good; Amorino's pistachio was
the best ever, by far; the mango and coconut great, the
raspberry intense



















Van Gogh lived here, 1886-88; with his brother, Theo





















Les Invalides from afar















Super-size me!




















Street scene




















One of my least favorite churches














But the views are nice...city scene, Pompidou














Notre Dame de Paris; and more















Us

















The four of us, taken by a kind stranger














Planning ahead for Penelope














Street scene