Cape Egmont And North

We wanted to see some of the black (volcanic sand) beaches of the middle west coast and so drove out to the coastal highway at Cape Egmont and from there north.

It is said to be a big-time surfing area, but we
saw little in the waves; I wanted to dress the
part, but alas the shirt was a couple sizes too
large

Great New Zealand Xmas Tree, with just a bit of red left

The whole area here, down from Mt. Taranaki, features
these interesting hillocks; they look like grown-over dunes,
but are rock underneath

Cape Egmont lighthouse

Cape Egmont

We drove on, stopping at an interesting young redwood
grove, but then proceeded on to Okahura, whose broad
black sand beach...well, gray...was alluring

The campground tent sites were right on the beach; we
camped, then took a long walk on the beach; and enjoyed
the pounding of the surf as night fell

Thus

And thus, next morning

From near New Plymouth, looking back to Okahura and
our beach

Mount Taranaki 2014

Mt. Taranaki is New Zealand's tallest, and, some would say, most beautiful volcano. It's a largely symmetrical cone, about 8,000 feet, I would guess. It looks like, and is, I suppose, a walk-up, and every year some hundreds or thousands climb it. Because of its frequent weather changes, however, it is also a bit of a killer: sixty or more have died on its slopes, far more than Mt. Cook, which no one would say is a walk-up. I'd had enough of volcanoes for a while and just wanted to see Taranaki--it is most often shrouded in clouds--so we drove toward it and got lucky and then hiked a few hours on its lower slopes.

And there it is

Up closer

From the lower slopes, looking down toward the sea

South side of mountain

A bit higher, a refuge?

On the trail, in the bush; called "Goblins' Forest," although
we didn't see any

Just the usual vegetable frolic

Streams and pools

Waterfalls

Weird trees

But no more volcano! We were near Taranaki that and the
next two days, but never saw it again...nothing but clouds

Stratford-Upon-Patea

It's a small town, at the end of the Forgotten World Highway, and gateway to New Zealand's biggest volcano, Mt. Taranaki, on the west coast. But it's more than that: it's New Zealand's homage to The Bard, with a carillon sort of thing that performs at 10AM and 3PM and with streets named after characters from the plays. We did a video of the carillon thing, on main street, with logging trucks and stock trucks whizzing by, but I won't be able to post it to YouTube for a while. Check back often. Of course all this is of super special significance, since grand-daughter Penelope was born on April 23rd and knows very well who Mr. Shakespeare was. Update: the video is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qIKFqffYdg.

He would be so proud

Thus

The clock tower/carillon/glockenspiel/whatever; various doors
open and various wooden mannequins, in costume, recite
various scenes; a hoot

Most campground offices are quite bland and franchise-looking; but not Stratford's,
which sports the most extensive collection of tea pots and chamber pots we have
yet seen

Forgotten World Highway

Next up was the Forgotten World Highway, which took us from Mordor to Stratford, 150k of twists and turns and ups and down, most of it paved, into and through the Republic of Whangi and beyond. It was a highway we will not soon forget.

Thus

Nota bene

New Zealand police rate it one of the top ten most unsafe roads
in the nation; we've seen worse; note vaulting

Looking back to the unforgotten world, Mt. Ruapehu, in the distance

The big thrill on the Forgotten World Highway, however, is passing through the
Republic of Whangi, which seceded from New Zealand some years back over a
dispute about which county it would belong to in a district reorganization

The capital is the Hotel Whangamomona, where we had lunch and much entertainment

I could have spent the day there looking at all the local humor

Including, evidently, a Running of the Sheep...but we had to move on for the 3PM
Shakespearean performance at Stratford-upon-Patea

Summit Of Mt. Doom

I tarried a bit on the summit; it's a big summit crater rim, with the views one wants only at its extremities.

On the rim

Crossing over to the summit

Ruapehu, another volcano, on whose slopes we spent Christmas, 2008, at
Whakapapa; the relevant LOTR filming was done on Ruapehu, where there's
a ski village and resort

Actual summit of Ngauruhoe

Summit selfie

The trailhead and car park in the distance

Up closer

On the awful descent

Looking back up; surprisingly, I got back down with no bruises nor abrasions and
with no rips nor tears in my clothing

It was still a two hour walk back to the carpark

Vicki came out to meet me on the trail, and we were treated to a fine sunset behind
Mt. Taranaki, a hundred miles away

Ascent Of Mt. Doom

After a late start, I reached the summit of Ngauruhoe about 4PM--a very long and discouraging 3,800 foot grind for these old bones. The main difficulty is the ground, which is largely tephra, sharp, jagged volcanic rock that comes in every size from fine sand to large boulder. The crux of this mountain is to stay on or near the rock to the left of the white band. The white is an awful scree and talus slope that some use for descent but that is dangerous for rockfall. I used it--a slow-motion glissade lasting more than an hour--but only after I was sure I was the last person on the mountain.

On the Tongariro track, at the start of the climb; the white slope and the rock
ridge to its left

Looking across Tongariro's south crater, the Tongariro track in plain view

A mile or so away, trampers at a high point on the Tongariro

The terrain...keep left!

The slope, variously estimated between 33 and 45 degrees

In the distance, Lake Taupo

"Smoke rises from the Mountain of Doom...the hour is late..."

Thus, up closer, near the crater rim