Cuneo

We wanted to drive the Italian Riviera, and that meant setting a course past or through Turin and then southwest across the Maritime Alps toward Menton, eastern-most on France's Mediterranean coast. Turin, as we passed by, was shrouded (nyuk, nyuk, nyuk) in the thickest haze I have seen since India. We at first wondered whether it was industrial pollution--Turin is home to Fiat, among other big industries--but encountered the same haze all the way across the mountains, three days later, and all along the Mediterranean. In any case, Vicki was interested in the slow food aspects of Turin, but we decided not to undertake driving downtown in the big city. Instead we stopped at a big Carrefours southwest of town and enjoyed one of our best superhipermercado shopping experiences so far. It was an enormous store, packed with more kinds and varieties of Italian foods than we have seen elsewhere. We stocked up a bit, then headed on to Cuneo, a smaller city on down the road, home to a big square and a big market, and more.

One of Cuneo's many covered arcades

A smidgeon of the square; the food market was over, but the
garment and household goods market was still going strong
in the afternoon sun; the TI lady later told us the garment
market was largely for the French, who came over the
mountains to shop; the garments were of better quality than
we're accustomed to seeing in street markets, but...

Probably not what the French were looking for

Another reason for coming to Cuneo was the Arione Bar
and Confectionary...

This where rum- and liqueur-filled chocolate was invented

Always looking for the liquor/literary connection, we are

Arione interior

Ditto, bar

The originals...a euro each or four for three euros; this is not
slow food, but the more you eat, the slower you will be
moving...

We also peeked inside the big downtown
church

Definitely not Gothic, we decided

Although the Roman centurion Tinker Bell
was interesting

What would Jesus wear? Vicki asked (continuing the
religious thread)

A nice little city, with an interesting downtown

Plus you really have to like a place that lists
all 19 of its libraries on a kiosk outside city
hall

Val d'Aosta Castles

The Valle d'Aosta boasts more than 150 castles. We have looked at and photographed several in prior passages, but actually stopped at the Castello di Fenis and photographed a couple others...

The Castello Aymaville

The Castello di Fenis, which we toured (in Italian; no fotos);
13th-15th century; major restoration in the 1930s

Well, I got a few

In the courtyard; frescoes everywhere by Giacomo Jaquerio;
not world-class paintings, but very interesting and relatively
early

View from inside the curtain

Tower view

Not a castle: the round-about that leads up to Breuil/Cervino:
the Matterhorn, or Monte Cervino, as the Italians call it; we
visited there a few years back

Further down the valley, Castillo Bard

Aosta; Mostly The Roman Bits

From Cogne we drove back to Aosta, the capital of region, a small but nice city we have driven through or past numerous times. This time we stopped, primarily in search of a Wind store, in order to buy a SIM card for our old Wind dongle, and thus have improved communications with the outside word. This we accomplished (the buying part) before the 12:30-4PM siesta closure. We spent another several hours looking around the town, which was, of course, mostly closed. We find that we buy far less when the stores are closed. Aosta is literally at the foot of the biggest of the Alps, and thus it still surprises us to find Roman ruins in such an apparently impractical place. But the little St. Bernard pass is not too far away, and indeed the Romans were here. In force, and with all the comforts of home, as usual.

Mountains in the distance beyond the ruins...Monte Rosa?

Triumphal arch/entry

Bridge; the river moved (and for once was not moved by
the Romans themselves)

Aostans do marvelous things with chocolate; and with wine,
cheese, meat, you name it

And with grappa

St. Anselm of Canterbury was born nearby and, legend has
it, did some time in this house (which makes it 12th century)

One of several commemorative plaques

"That than which no greater can be conceived..."--although
not in a league with Giotto or Newton, who have their own
shopping centers, Anselm at least got a cafe/bar; the German
guy in the pink shirt is saying "Yes, my friend, but existence
is not a predicate..."

More Roman arches

And ruins integrated into modern buildings

And arches

Pretty main square and hotel de ville

Some Art Nouveau

But, of interest to us, mostly more ruins, here in the theatre
district

Ditto

As the mountains look on

Gran Paradiso; Or, Cow Clashes Of Cogne

I had seen Gran Paradiso, the mountain, a couple times from the Mt. Blanc environs, and wanted to see it closer up. It is Italy's 7th highest and the highest completely within its borders. It is also the hub of a large national park, Parc Nationale Gran Paradiso, originally King Victor Emmanuel's royal hunting grounds, which he gave to the nation (Mussolini) in 1922, ostensibly to provide for the preservation of the nearly-extinct ibex. It is also Italy's first and possibly largest national park. Anyhow, its gateway is Cogne, scarcely an hour from Courmayeur. We drove over on a Sunday afternoon, quickly satisfied my curiosity about the mountain, viewed a local spectacle, stayed overnight in Cogne's large sosta (aire), and then drove the next morning to Lillez, a nearby village, to see its waterfall.

Cogne's big sosta, room for perhaps a hundred campers; fewer
there now at season's end

The Big Mountain from Cogne

Church tower in Cogne, which apparently has
the same affliction as San Capistrano

Cogne is one of those civilized Italian towns
that has an elevator or escalator from the
big sosta or parking lot up to the town proper;
here, we were reminded that Bovine Culture is
Very Big in the Val d'Osta (from which we get
Valdosta, GA, USA, a place no more like
alpine Italy than, say, Mars), a fact that would
be indelibly impressed on us as soon as we
viewed the fields west of the town...

At first we thought we had wandered into a livestock auction

But no, these are the Reines des Alpes, the cow clashes,
the bovine battles of Aosta

With preliminaries in every little town, quarter-finals in bigger
towns, and...well, as you would expect, it's very much like
March Madness or the Super Bowl

Thus; I have a pretty good video of all this which I'll upload
to YouTube and link here; someday, probably not in Italy,
when we have decent internet connections

Reines du Mont Blanc; in the guidebooks it is described as
"humane" 

Last year's losers

Anyhow, the entire affair is fueled by a variety of carburants

Another view of the mountain 

Schist happens

In the geological park in Lillez, next morning; well, para-schist,
the sign said; but the gneiss was nice

Lower bit of the waterfall

Other mountains look on; it was 36 degrees
overnight in Cogne; we felt the need to move
on, further south, lower down...