Monday, May 27, 2013

Beauvais: Saint-Etienne Windows

Because of collapsing vaults and revolutions and wars, etc., there is not much stained glass to see in Beauvais, but there are at least a few very nice Renaissance pieces at St. Stephens, most done by one Engrand Le Prince.
Great color


















Great demons; feeding miscreants into the Mouth of Hell



















Great light on the floor


















Which Vicki loves














More hell and damnation; we are both very sure we have seen the guy on the right before,
in stone, somewhere...Orvieto? PS Well, not exactly, but close: see the last item of
http://roadeveron.blogspot.nl/2011/05/orvieto-duomo-reliefs.html

















Curious subject and pose


















Ditto; hacking up a sarcaphogus?














Upper branches of the ever popular Tree of Jesse



















Another nice demon


















St. Martin, or possibly someone else, giving a piece of his
cloak to a beggar



















Interior of the WHEEL! OF! FORTUNE!!!!!!














And, walking down crypt-ward to the tomb of some locally-important saint
(St. Firmin actually spent the night in Beauvais; in prison), a nice Eviction

Beauvais: Church of Saint-Etienne

There was another church of interest in Beauvais, the older church of St. Stephen, begun in the early 1100s, and clearly showing the transition from Romanesque to Gothic. It is said to be the place where ribbed vaulting began, "Norman" in this case, but I did not see much difference between here and the Plantagenet vaulting we saw a couple weeks back. The difference in ceiling height between Romanesque and Gothic at St. Stephens is 12 meters! But the Gothic choir is much younger than the Norman nave. Whatever...
St.Etienne in Beavais, west facade; the
typanum is a Mary coronation; the
Revolution was not kind to this church


























Nave shot
























Nave vaulting and elevation; blind triforium,
tiny clerestory windows



















Crossing; note the difference in height, nave versus choir














Looking into choir...

































And its fancy later Gothic ribbing...
























Aisle view
























Interesting interior staircase at the transept
























South transept; the north transept has a rose
window, well, actually a "wheel of fortune"
we'll see from the outside




















Here's the view where you can really see the difference:
under the crossing, just into the north transept; on the
left, the fancy later Gothic ribbing and the huge lancet
windows; on the right, the much lower Norman vaulting
with its much smaller clerestory windows


















Outside the north transept...WHEEL! OF! FORTUNE!!!!!!!
(it's in the sculpture around the window, depicting the
transience of material possessions...





























Saturday, May 25, 2013

Beauvais: Cathedrale Of Saint-Pierre

We moved on, back inland, to Beauvais, a small city some 50 miles miles north of Paris. Historically it was the the home of the Jacquerie, the peasants' revolt, and was also a great textile and tapestry center—the National Museum of Tapestry is here. But the main reason for visiting Beauvais nowadays is its great uncompleted Cathedral of St. Pierre.

In the mid 13th century, the town fathers, lords, and clergy of Beauvais decided to build a cathedral higher than all the others going up all over France and Europe. No one would question the religious bent of this decision. Nearer to thee, etc. Theology of height and light. Etc. But cathedrals in this age were also major economic undertakings, enthusiastically supported by royalty, nobility, merchants, guilds, the people...and the Church's introduction of indulgences (direct payment for salvation). The Chambre de Commerce, had it been around, would have heartily approved. Destination tourism. Pilgrims. Civic pride. Sign of divine favor. Etc. So St. Pierre's in Beauvais went up, and up, and up. Its crossing, is indeed the highest of them all.

And then things came tumbling down, down, down. The envelope—architectural, ecclesiastical, economic—had been pushed too far. The choir was completed by 1263, but in 1272 its vault, 157 ft., collapsed. Construction after the Hundred Years' War saw the building of the transepts and the great crossing, 11m higher than anything else known. But then it collapsed in 1573. The church remains uncompleted. There is no nave nor west entrance. The building one sees today is essentially the choir and transepts. But, for its great height, it is no less impressive as a statement of Medieval aspiration.  
Entrance, the south transept portal; really high up there...



















View from the southeast; some work going on, yes; but note those huge, high
flying buttresses















Inside, here is what you came for: the highest apse of this age



















Choir floor to ceiling


















But there's a price: those are flying buttresses; all those others
we have talked about have one foot still on the ground...




















And some of the piers are being buttressed too



















Thus; you mean those 3x8s are going to hold up all those thousands of tons of stone
blocks so high up in the air? OK, it's been standing there for 800 years; but we didn't
tarry taking extra pix

















A bit of the elevation in the choir; note the glazed triforia,
each half bay with 4 lancets and 2 major oculi; and then
the hugely high clerestory windows and rose/oculi above
them






















And here's all the elevation my camera could capture;  huge
aisles, and within them more windows, blind triforia; all the
dimensions are enormous





















There is some little glass; on the left, the ever popular
Tree of Jesse



















An Annunciation


















But it's the great height, and ambition, that impresses














The little tan caboose on the left is the nave of the Carolingian cathedral; all the
nave St. Pierre's will have; but it gives some sense of how far things had come  in
a few hundred years







Friday, May 24, 2013

Etretat

It finally stopped raining Tuesday morning, and we walked the kilometer into pretty Etretat, to the pebble beach and the first views of the great sea cliffs there. We have seen some pretty good sea cliffs in our travels...Amalfi, New Zealand, Ireland, Orkneys, California, Portugal...and Etretat has to rank with these. Thanks, Rachel! From the town easy trails connect the various cliffs. We walked the western two.
It's a pretty town, much half-timbered, interesting
brick and flint...



















Lands lides...














A sailboat approaches the great arch east of town














Our kind of town: stroll the beach along restaurant row, gaze
at the beautiful scenery, and get art history lessons as you
go...
















The pebble-plage, great white cliffs, an arch, and the church
above















A class or two of pre-schoolers en field-trip to the plage;
and their intrepid teachers; we're always looking at toddlers
and pre-schoolers...
















The great arch just west of town; a fishing
boat seen through it...



















I thought I could get a quick curry-wurst and a bier at this
establishment, but it appeared closed for the season















Atop a western cliff, looking back toward Etretat














Structures at the base of the cliff


















Looking at the next cliffs westward and the great arch there














Sea-stack


















And further west, a seagull joins us














As far as we got...more cliffs














So we got down off the cliffs, found just the right restaurant
on the plage, ordered... and then they told us they had run
out of moules; I wouldn't have thought such a thing was
possible...















Tuesday, May 21, 2013