Patriarche: Visiting Des Caves

I did the Patriarche wine-tasting tour in 1989, while Vicki and Rebecca and Rachel shopped. For a wine neophyte, it was quite an experience. Now I am simply lazy, thirsty, in the market for a bargain, and happy to reconnect with the past. So I did the Patriarche tour again. (Patriarche is one of the largest Burgundy negociants...blenders and marketers of fine wine.) Hey, 13 wines, including a few really good ones, for 10 euros?! It was a slow day, and I had the place pretty much to myself.

Patriarche

Entering the caves; I have forgotten how many acres beneath
Beaune Patriarche owns, but it's quite a walk just to see the
parts open to the public

Halls and halls like this

And this

Meursault, my favorite Burgundy white; my favorite white

wine

One of the best years ever

Finally, the first of the tasting areas; you get 3 whites and

10 reds; the big difference between now and 20 years ago

is back then they had people staffing these areas; nowadays--

ha!!!--it's self-serve, with just a few staffers circulating and

making conversation (and making sure you aren't stuffing

the '47 Gevrey Chambertin into your jacket)

If you're a real wine cognoscenti, you oxygenate, sniff, taste

with all parts of your mouth, then spit it out into one of these

little jugs; and make notes in your wine journal; I find the

expectorating part really difficult, but previous experience

has taught me it's best to taste and spit out the cheap stuff

(anything under $30 a bottle) so that you can really appreciate

the fine stuff

Not the cheap stuff; I had to get several helpings to really

discern its quality; ditto with the Pommard and Rully and

the Chassagne Montrachet

And of course the Meursault; ah, the soft amber glow...

I was glowing a bit myself by the time I

reached the last of the tastings

Hey, if it's good enough for the Sun King, it's good enough

for me

Beaune

Burgundy is my most favored wine, and so we have been to Beaune several times. Burgundy wine country is beautiful--vineyards, villages, and especially Beaune.

But first, another random chateau, Rochepot, approaching

Beaune

Sitting above its village

It's about here you start seeing the vines and the grapes

Someone's beautiful garden in Beaune; the whole city is

dressed up like this

Ditto

The Athenaeum--the best store there is for anything wine-

related--across from the Hospices

I loved this t-shirt

The great names are everywhere

Nice well treatment

And courtyard

1243

Autun, 2011

We first visited Autun in 1979, probably en route to the Cote d'Or. I remember visiting the Roman amphitheater at Autun, but not much more. This time we camped across the lake from the amphitheater (in the city's free camperstop) but came to Autun to see its 11-12th century cathedral and in particular the reliefs that adorn it.

But first, another random Burgundy chateau from the road

At Autun, another hemmed-in city cathedral, difficult to get

any full view

As I said, it's mostly the reliefs that are of interest, 12th

century; this the west door tympanum, a Last Judgment

Hellish detail (Heaven is so boring)

Interior; great light and color, not huge, but very old

Very old windows

I love these older buildings; you can look up

and nearly everything you see is architectural,

and there is little mystery in how everything

fits and hangs together

The reliefs at Autun are some of the earliest intact in

Medieval Europe; here, Simon Magi falls as Paul and Peter

(keys) and Satan look on with satisfaction (we last saw

Simon Magi in a 12th century mosaic in Palermo)

A few other examples: Cain killing Abel

Judas hanging (with devilish assistance)

An angel tells the three kings that mum's the word with

Herod

Amazingly, the reliefs apparently all are by the same hand;

and, most amazingly, we know his name: "Gislebertus hoc

fecit"--"Gislebertus made this"--the first time in the Middle

Ages that an artist signed his work

View of Autun from the cathedral

Autun was founded by Augustus; here the remains of one of

the Roman gates

But before Romans, there were Gallic Celts; here is the ruin

of the so-called Temple of Janus, an apparent Celtic temple

Cluny

Cluny was on the way to our next destination, Autun, so we dropped by. Its abbey was one of the greatest of the middle ages, whose leaders could intimidate kings and popes alike. The great church--the largest in Christendom until the present St. Peter's was built--was laid low, destroyed nearly entirely, by the Revolution. Atheists do bad things too. Rebecca and Rachel may remember Cluny as the site of France's national equestrian school. We visited in 1989.

And on the way to Cluny was Macon, and the Rhone



And the first of many beautiful chateaux

From a book cover, this is what the great church looked

like at its height; really a hodge-podge...

And here you are standing at the entrance to the narthex

of the great church

Not much remains

Ditto

Just a transept tower or two; sic transit,

Gloria

Poulet de Bresse

We bid Chamonix another fond farewell on Monday. We had planned on visiting Lyon, a place we've never been; but the apparent lack of camperstop/park&ride facilities discouraged us (it's a big city), and we decided to save Lyon for another time. We headed instead for old friend Bourg en Bresse and another favorite restaurant, which we discovered, thanks to Michelin, in 1986, the Restaurant Hotel du Mail.

One visits Bourg en Bresse for just one reason: the best chicken in France, and, 
arguably, the world, although the world doesn't know it since so few of the birds 
emigrate; they are prized for their flavor (slightly gamey, lots of fat); the Beny 
version is a national tri-color emblem, red crown, whitefeathers, distinctive blue 
feet 

Alas! Alack! The Hotel du Mail is no more! But a friendly shop-keeper directed 
us to the Eglise du Brou area, where, she said we would find restaurants serving 
the poulet de Bresse

Me and friend in front of the 16th century abbey church

Bourg en Bresse knows what it's famous for...

Anyhow, we had our 5 course splurge Burgundian dinner at the Auberge Bressane

Nice view of the eglise, lots of French goodies,but mostly 
the chicken; the waiter apparently received his training in 
Paris, a demeanor we have come to regard as part of the 
show; and what a show it is...



The eglise at sunset; ordered by Margaret of Austria to honor her deceased 4th 
husband, Philibert the Fair