Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Orvieto Duomo Reliefs

The facade of the cathedral has four giant lower panels on its pilasters (also great bronze images of the gospel writers' symbols; great bronze doors, etc.) with some of the best and best preserved reliefs we have seen, done by Lorenzo Maitani between 1320 and 1330. They cover all the usual biblical and legendary topics, and I just post a few of the best known...
First of the four panels, old testament stuff; "tree" of Jesse



















God working in Adam's rib-cage area















"No wonder you had chest pains!"















Sharing a snack















Predictable results















Annunciation















Adoration















Other Adoration















Flight















Always our favorite, Damnation (protective plastic)















Detail















"Not another cathedral!"
c

Orvieto Duomo

Maybe it was the change of pace from the architecture one sees in Rome and in the south, but we really enjoyed the Duomo in Orvieto...
Gothic! and zebra stripes too!















The great facade; the reliefs on the lowest level warrant their 
own post; so we'll go inside this magnificent 13th-15th century 
cathedral





















Nave















Although there is some traditional stained glass in the chancel 
and elsewhere, most of the windows are done in translucent 
alabaster





















Gotta' have a relic; this the 13th century altar cloth onto which blood fell from 
a consecrated host, thus "proving" the (recent, 1215) theory of transubstantiation
















But what we liked best was the Nuova Cappella, and Luca Signorelli's 1499-1504 
fresco cycle of the Last Judgment (and damnation, etc.)
















They should have had Signorelli do the Sistine Chapel judgment; IMHO















Alas, the frescoes are up pretty high in the chapel, and I had to hurry the photos 
too;  there are good representations on the web; oh yes, the ceiling and other 
work is by Fra Angelica, and, fittingly, there are many representations of Dante 
in the lower tiers; an amazing place

Orvieto 2

Nice bench















Umbrian and Tuscan towns are often divided traditionally into
quarters, each with their own emblems, identities, etc.















In an old palazzo, now an apartment buidling I think















Umbrian countryside















Cat, dog, and kid--always an entertaining combination















View from the ramparts















Orvieto's great well and cistern; for a few euros you can walk
down and back up the 200 steps















A Train of Great Velocity (as the French call it) bullets toward
Rome















The camper-stop was sandwiched between not one but two sets
of tracks, the Trains of Great Velocity and the Trains of Not So
Great Velocity; although I was prepared with my earplugs, they
seemed not to run through the night; maybe there was a strike...

















Us at Orvieto, taken by a couple from Lewiston, ID,
practically neighbors

Orvieto 1

Initially we were drawn to Orvieto for the great wine. We did buy a few bottles of the classico. But there was much else of interest in this old hill town. The Duomo, with its great reliefs and Signorelli frescoes will require its own posts.
Orvieto on approach, the great cathedral to the right, the city
center in the, um, center; we found the camper-stop at the
train station below the city and took the funicular up to it
















These sorts of scenes everywhere



















Ditto



















Towers everywhere



















13th century municipal building, still in use















Alleys like this all over, with buttresses and
arches between them




















Pasta in the shapes of Italy's great monuments; at olive oil
tastings, we quickly figured out, you get free wine and bread and
cheese and olive spreads, and olive oil, too
















The big clock tower



















Vicki in the big main piazza

Etruscan Tombs Near Sutri

From Tivoli we headed north into Umbria. In this region and in Tuscany one sees Etruscan things, mostly tombs dug into the volcanic tufa that is everywhere. We stopped at a conveniently located complex near the small town of Sutri for a look.
Thus















And thus; throughout the region, over the centuries, the locals have generally 
used these for storage units, farm implements, broken down vehicles, placing 
garage doors into them
















A bonus at Sutri is this first century amphitheater built well after the Romans 
took over; what is remarkable is that it is entirely dug out of the tufa, rather 
than built up from it
















Contemporary Sutri from the amfiteatro















Meanwhile, more tombs; the Etruscans did some fine filigree, but apart from 
building tombs, I don't think they did much else
















RV-sized tomb

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Villa d'Este: The Gardens

The gardens, however, are the main attraction, very compact, terraced down the steep hill, with numerous water features.
Nice initial fountain















Another



















Several hundred feet of another terrace



















The organ fountain; the organ powered originally by water;
as in ancient times















Looking westerly toward Rome















Impressive garden scenery



















Roses everywhere















Looking back from the belvedere















Dead wood/live wood



















An Artemis fountain



















The dragon fountain















And, of course, the founding of Rome fountain