Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Etruscan Tombs Near Sutri

From Tivoli we headed north into Umbria. In this region and in Tuscany one sees Etruscan things, mostly tombs dug into the volcanic tufa that is everywhere. We stopped at a conveniently located complex near the small town of Sutri for a look.
Thus















And thus; throughout the region, over the centuries, the locals have generally 
used these for storage units, farm implements, broken down vehicles, placing 
garage doors into them
















A bonus at Sutri is this first century amphitheater built well after the Romans 
took over; what is remarkable is that it is entirely dug out of the tufa, rather 
than built up from it
















Contemporary Sutri from the amfiteatro















Meanwhile, more tombs; the Etruscans did some fine filigree, but apart from 
building tombs, I don't think they did much else
















RV-sized tomb

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Villa d'Este: The Gardens

The gardens, however, are the main attraction, very compact, terraced down the steep hill, with numerous water features.
Nice initial fountain















Another



















Several hundred feet of another terrace



















The organ fountain; the organ powered originally by water;
as in ancient times















Looking westerly toward Rome















Impressive garden scenery



















Roses everywhere















Looking back from the belvedere















Dead wood/live wood



















An Artemis fountain



















The dragon fountain















And, of course, the founding of Rome fountain

Villa d'Este: The Interiors

The 16th century Villa d'Este is right in town, overlooking the lands to the west below. It was created for Cardinal d'Este, one of the papal families. Apparently, even then, there were some loop-holes in the vow of poverty.
Courtyard of the Villa















Nice frescoes throughout















The whole thing built over a Roman villa, of course















Illusional ceiling with stubby columns















Other illusionist effects; effective too















And a nod to classical Roman art















It's a big place, three floors of rooms



















Staircase, mostly for servants, and tourists, I guess















Lizst lived here in 1884, so his rooms are a nice museum; and
there are concerts in the summer

Tivoli

Our campsite at the Piazzale del Cimiteri; the Piazzale del
Bus Stazione was on the other side of the intersection















Why we didn't stay at the designated camper-stop: it became
the market on Wednesday morning















Local Renaissance castle; closed for repairs















Looking north-west from Tivoli















Hill-towns dot the horizon; some hills are just towns















Looking west to Rome and Tiburtina, and nearly continuous
development















Including some of the largest quarries (travertine) I have ever
seen















And, immediately below, a ruined mini-Pantheon

Hadrian's Villa

We drove about 25 miles east of Rome, up slightly into the Appenine foothills, to the ancient town of Tivoli, one of the summer playgrounds of "elite" Romans of the classical era. The Piazza del Cimiterio in Tivoli afforded us free if occasionally noisy parking for three nights while we explored the area's major sights--Tivoli itself, Hadrian's Villa, and the Renaissance Villa d'Este.

Elite Romans had been moving to the countryside since the first century BCE, building villas and plantations and such ("Rancho Deluxe") to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big cities. Hadrian would count as an elite Roman: emperor early in the second century, presiding over the empire's greatest extent, a traveler, a general, a scholar, a lover of all things Greek. We have bumped into him at his Wall in Britain, his birthplace at Italica, near Seville, at battle sites in Romania, at his tunnel (diverting a river) near Antioch, all over Greece, and at his Forum and Column and Pantheon in Rome. He was the third of the Five Good Emperors, and, next to Augustus, I'd say, best of them all. Anyhow, his villa, near Tivoli, is certainly the biggest of them all, a city in itself, with a palace, guest quarters, three Baths, both Latin and Greek libraries, huge warehouses and administrator/servant/soldier quarters, and some of the most striking water features of the ancient world. I'll just post some of the better pix, without comment.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Ciao!

We reluctantly left Rome on Monday the 16th of May. Even after nearly four weeks for me, three for Vicki, and seven for the Grey Wanderer, it was hard to leave. Our camping situation at the Prato Smeralda, while not ideal, was at least secure and very cheap, and the commute into the Eternal City was a snap. And then there is Rome, with all its sights, major and minor, food and drink, and just the thrill of being in one of the world's oldest and still most vibrant cities. Our leaving was at least helped along by the decision to keep the Grey Wanderer in Europe, rather than shipping it back to the States this summer. We like our mode of travel very much and want to be able to continue it in Europe in future years.
Our place at Prato Smeraldo, camper-stop, -storage, -service















Giovanni's roses















We'll be back!