Monday, March 28, 2011

A Day In Pompeii

[Note: actually, the day recounted here occurred before the day in Capri; in order to preserve narrative flow, I have thus departed from the usual chronological purity of this blog].

Fortified by Stephen Tuck's lectures and much additional reading, we embarked upon our first day in Pompeii, 7 hours and 500 pix of a variety of subjects we had been looking forward to seeing. While everyone knows the basic story of Pompeii--thriving Etruscan/Samnite/Roman city of 20,000, buried and frozen in time by the August 24-26, 79 AD eruption of nearby Mt. Vesuvius--a few additional notes bear on the variety of Pompeii posts that will follow. Neighboring Herculaneum was actually discovered before Pompeii, earlier in the 18th century. The pyroclastic flows that had buried Herculaneum in 60 feet of solid rock meant that the only explorations undertaken in those times were through tunnel mining and not excavation, as at Pompeii, which was covered by cinder and ash. (Half of Vesuvius had blown up and much of it had fallen on Pompeii and neighboring towns and villas south and west of the mountain). "Exploration" in those days was very largely a matter of treasure-hunting, financed by aristocracy and royalty. Thus, most of what was brought up and out of Herculaneum and Pompeii until very nearly the 20th century is now in a variety of royal-collections-turned-public-museums. The Kings of Naples hoarded most of the art and other treasures, and thus most of what was taken from Herculaneum and Pompeii is now at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples. Don't worry, we visited it too. Anyhow, that explains the relative starkness of what one sees in Pompeii, apart of from the occasional replicas placed in the ruins by modern curators and others.
In the public area at the northwest corner of the city, the Temple of Apollo; prior 
to the '79 catastrophe, Pompeii was rocked by a major earthquake in '62 that 
brought down most of the largest structures; they were still re-building in '79...



















Remains of the Basilica, the meeting place, hall of justice, et cetera
















There are frescoes all around, not plentiful, but worth seeking out




















In one of the baths, cubby-holes in which to stow one's clothing
















In the same baths, a bronze massage table/bed















Lead piping















Us in Pompeii















In the House of the Faun, a replica piece of the Alexander mosaic, depicting the 
Battle of Issus, wherein Alexander defeated the Persian king Darius, and opened 
the way through Persia to the east and India

















One of Pompeii's numerous neighborhood bakeries; the millstones on the left 
were driven by slaves or donkeys; the ovens on the right

















More frescoes















And more; the snake was considered a blessing upon any house or business
















Another fresco figure I liked; it was the only painting form that has come down 
to us
















At the House of the Tragic Poet, the very famous Cave Canem mosaic; apparently 
a joke among middle and upper class Romans, since the doors to their homes were 
open for business from dawn to dusk every day


















In the spare parts shed (among gazillions of items)




















A particularly large atrium/peristyle garden in someone's large house
















After the Forum and the Baths, the Brothel is Pompeii's most popular sight; here's 
Vicki on one of the beds
















Frescoes above the (closed) Stabian Baths















Archaeology/preservation/restoration continues















Atrium in another large house; our house in Dallas had an atrium, although it was 
not quite like this...

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Capri Out-takes

Capri's grand marina from the road above















That is, from the road hewn into the cliff
there




















 
In Capri Town, a helpful map of the place, all 4 square miles















The up-town roads are so narrow the only
vehicles practicable are these little carts




















An ambulance, seriously; we later saw what
has to be the world's tiniest fire engine, but
I couldn't get the camera out quickly enough





















Environmentally-senstive Madonna halo on
motion detector




















Part of the on-going case demonstrating that poor taste
knows no boundaries; Vicki opined, however, that there
was a Disney Store in Capri Town, and that this might be
the owner's residence; still...


















Multi-domed Capri cathedral we skipped















International optometry shop; also had
Mandarin on another wall, and Roman letters




















Meanwhile, our ship has come in, and it's time to get back
to Sorrento

Isle of Capri and Tiberius' Villa

We took the bus back to Anacapri and then Capri Town, from which Vicki was determined to do the hike up to the Emperor Tiberius' Villa Ruins (1st century). This was pretty up-hill, but beautifully scenic.
Old Capri Town is largely a maze of six foot- wide alleys; 
in the central square, this was the only signage pointing to 
Tiberius' place






















Thus




















A bit further, there's this; thanks, Rotarians




















But hey, it's Capri and the Mediterranean, and getting lost 
is not really very unpleasant




















Love the Mediterranean...















Still up ahead, Tiberius' Villa















The main road on up-town Capri Town, all of six feet wide




















More Mediterranean
















Finally, Tiberius' place; he ruled the empire from here for the last ten years of his 
life
















More















More ditto




















Looking down, 1,000 feet, to the beautiful blue beneath the Villa
















More of the Villa and Capri beyond















Tiberius' Leap; the Emperor so loved having those who displeased him thrown 
from the cliffs
















Looking back to the tip of the Sorrentine peninsula

Isle of Capri and Blue Grotto

We have always wanted to see the Isle of Capri, so Thursday, the 17th, we took the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento, found our way to the marina, and just made it onto the 10AM ferry. We had hoped for calmer waters and tides just right for seeing the interior of the Blue Grotto, but the swell between Sorrento and Capri was ominous. We landed at the grand marina beneath Capri Town and learned that not only were the boats not doing the Blue Grotto, they were not even doing the cruise around the island. (The sea didn't look that bad to me; it was a national holiday, however, Italy's 150th anniversary of unification; everything else was open and going strong....oh well.) Undaunted, we took the bus up to Capri Town and then around the island to Anacapri, then transferring to the bus that goes down to the Blue Grotto. While the bus rides on Capri are much shorter than the Amalfi coast, they are not a bit less thrilling, exposed, and scenic.
One of the deep gorges running through Sorrento




















Sorrento's tourist marina














Our ship, the Good Ferry Isle di Pescida, or somesuch, in Capri's Grand Marina; 
note the danger I incurred to take this picture
















OK, so after two harrowing bus rides, with some canoli and cafe expresso in between, 
we arrive at the Blue Grotto stopon the bus line; to see the entrance to the Grotto, you
walk down these stairs, a hundred feet or so, and peer around the corner



















And there it is, the entrance to the Blue Grotto















On calm days I doubt that anyone pays the slightest attention to such injunctions; 
but we did

















OK, it's blue
















Bigger Picture

Interludium, Updatum; Secundum

I awoke this morning to Paul McCartney's singing "When I'm 64," thanks to Vicki. A week has passed since my last post, and we are now in Rome, beginning a week here before returning to the States for three weeks. Anyhow, I hope we'll have a slower pace in the coming week and I'll be able to post some more. There is ever more to report...Capodimonte, Vesuvius, the Amalfi Coast again and Ravello, the Caserta Palace and Garden. Stay tuned. And thanks to all who sent birthday greetings, in one medium or another.
The veal and pasta dish from Il Tari Vicki fixed for my birthday

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Interludium; Updatum

We are, since Monday, back in Pompei, at our home, #11, Camping Spartacus. Tuesday we spent 7 hours in the Pompei archaeological site (500 pix). Wednesday, it rained all day. Thursday we spent all day in Capri, via train to Sorrento and ferry, seeing the Blue Grotto (sort of) and Tiberias' Villa (300 pix). Friday we were all day in Naples again, mostly at the Archaeological Museum (400 pix). Today, Saturday, we were on the Circumvesuviana again (the train that runs between Naples and Sorrento, Pompei in the middle), spending the afternoon at Herculaneum (300 pix). Tomorrow in Pompei again we see, by reservation, the Villa of the Mysteries, the House of the Prince of Naples, the Suburban Baths, and others, including House of the Tragic Poet, Garden of the Fugitives, and more. Another several hundred pix. It may take some some time to process, edit, and post all this. Or just a tiny bit of it. Perhaps I should explain that our interest in the region, its history and archaeology and so on, is longstanding (we have six years of high school Latin between us), and has been augmented considerably by watching Miami U professor Stephen Tuck's lectures on everyday life in Pompei, from the Teaching Company. Superb stuff. We have never been so well prepared for a site or complex of sites. And the classical world is on display at Pompei like nowhere else.
"That's more than 3 gigs of pix!"

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Arrivaderci, Sicily

We spent the night at a rest area on the north coast (starts with a T; where the Black Madonna is located (which we decided to skip)) and then drove on into Messina to catch the ferry back to the mainland.

We had thought about taking one of the excursions out to
Stromboli and the other volcanic islands north of Sicily; but
they don't begin running until April; we think this may be
Stromboli pictured above; if not, some other island in the
Tyrrhenian Sea



















Sicily's northern coast: more hill-top villages, more tunnels
and bridges

















Have you ever been in a traffic jam, creeping along, on an
interstate, and every now and then some jerk comes whizzing
by, passing everybody, in the emergency lane? And you
wonder, where are the cops? Well, in this case, the cops were
waiting for the jerks, and nailed them. The traffic jam, a couple
miles in length just outside Messina, was caused by the
need to merge two lanes into one. In Sicily, and southern Italy
generally, this requires encounter and confrontation by each
and every pair of merging vehicles. If you let one in, then you
will have let in the next five or so until someone else finally
loses his [sic] nerve or pauses to light another cigarette.
Romanians are generally said to be the worst drivers in
Europe. Italians drive like Romanians on steroids (as Vicki
says).

























And so we are back on the ferry, crossing the Straits of
Messina; alas, I did not even get the name of the vessel
















That's because I was lashed to the mast, so
as not to be influenced by the Sirens, the
Whirlpool, Charybdis and Scylla, and other
local perils






















Farewell, Sicily, tunnels and bridges, and crazy drivers
















We much enjoyed our time with you