Still More Vienna, 2

Vienna is where cafe society was born, and Hawelka's
was perhaps the most famous

I had a coffee, melange, and a strudel, and lamented
that the day of the smoke-filled cafe, writers and
artists, is now gone; they're all down at the Starbucks,
I was told, for the wifi

In 1989, we had the Sacher Torte at the Hotel Sacher

This time, we thought we'd try the other "authentic" source,
Demel; Vienna is the capital of the pastry world, they say, 
and Demel is the capital of pastry in Vienna, they say; 
therefore...

One of Demel's showrooms

We had the little Sacher Torte that afternoon

Our subway passed by the Schloss Schoenbrunn, the
summer palace of the Hapsburgs; we had gone there
in 89 and so skipped it this time; too much Austrian
official yellow paint can be hard on the eyes

Still More Vienna

More sights from Vienna

Street scene in old town

Vienna's Rathaus, made up for the International Film

Festival

It faces the Hofburg Theatre, with a park and huge food

court in between the two

Food court

The Rathaus restaurant, where, in 1989, I had my first

cream of garlic soup; no longer on the menu...

Vienna plague monument

Midnight ride of Franz Josef I, Rathaus in background

The Hofburg, Austria's answer to Versailles (well,

technically, I guess that would be the Schoenbrunn, a few

miles out in the woodburbs); we went to the Hofburg in 89,

so skipped it this time

Mozart gets a nice statue, near the opera, but

he has to share this town with Haydn,

Beethoven, Gluck, Mahler, Schoenberg, all the
Strauss's, et al.

Vienna's Karlskirche

Not far from the Karlsplatz station is the Karlskirche, Vienna's Baroque church.

Karlskirche; the east side; note weird towers, modeled on

Trajan's column in Rome

Some heavy renovation going on in here

Also a mass

Kunsthistorischemuseum

That's German for art history museum. The KHM is one of our favorite museums. It was one of the first purpose-built public museums, it's beautiful (the Hapsburgs spared no expense in building it), they collected art for 700 years, and the collection is much to our liking with all its Cranachs and Breughels and Arcimboldos and others.

Kunsthistorischemuseum, part of the MuseumsQuartier

Marie Theresa presiding over it all

Looking up into the dome, as everyone does upon entering the building

Somebody killing a centaur

Cranach's "Judith"; compare Klimt's (earlier

post)

Lots of painters around

View from our lunch table, looking down from the dome

area, 2nd floor

Elder Breughel's Tower of Babel; after a few weeks in

Poland, Czech Republic, and now Hungary, we're really

beginning to relate to the Babel thing; fortunately, so far,

enough people speak enough English...

Another large Breughel

Breughel's "Hunters in Snow," said to be the first European

painting to depict snow

And, Breughel's "Conversion of Paul" (fairly well buried in

the larger canvass)

Vicki really likes Arcimboldos; I think

they're scary

Caravaggio's "Virgin of the Rosary"; I

thought the "Ascension of Salvador and

Gala" (Dali; see posts from Spain) was

the first work of art to depict dirty feet, but

no, it was Caravaggio, 300 years earlier

Half the KHM is its classical collection, which nearly rivals
the British Museum; what's especially cool about the KHM
is that each room is designed and decorated in accordance
with its artifacts

Aristotle

Display of Roman busts

Collection of Etruscan helmets

Second-largest ancient cameo yet found

Heuriger

One of the things one does in Vienna is journey out to the surrounding hills and vineyards to visit a heuriger, a wine garden right on the vineyards, to drink the new wine. The fashion began when the emperor exempted new wine from taxation. Such is the power to shape behavior and society through taxation. We took trams, subways, and buses out to Neustift am Walde.

Where a three-day street fair had been going on (we'd had

to detour around it on the way in to Vienna)

And found a table at this heuriger: Fuhrgassle-Huber

The wine does not have to travel far

View from our table, which we shared over the course of

the evening with Austrians, Poles, others

Dinner; we split some of the pig and half of one of the

chickens, and some potato salad, and, of course, a few mugs

of the fresh white wine

Vicki, contented with the foregoing and now

apple strudel mit cream (note empty wine

mug)

Things really got lively when the old Austrian band showed

up

The street party continued as we left

Prater, 2010

Vienna's old amusement part, the Prater, is still going strong. Not a theme park, and nothing terribly beautiful nor exotic, but more rides than any other park I've seen. Vicki says we didn't go to the Prater on previous visits; I say we did.

For many years, the world's largest

As seen in...

Lots of other rides

Lots

Vicki just had to go on this one

She's up there somewhere, spinning around in dual orbits, upside down

And at the Prater we established an important new precedent: that Mark does not have to go on these 

things