Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Music City

Mozart statue in the city square; never has
one city made more of/off one person...who
died in abject poverty













The Birth House












Clandestine shot in the Geburthaus







The Wohnhaus








The Haus fur Mozart; the Festspielhaus, home of the
Salzburg Easter Festival, most prestigious of all musical
events (so I have read)











Festspielhaus, dome, and
fortress












To be a street musician in this town, you'd better be good;
these guys were good, performing from The Marriage of
Figaro

Expulsion!

Prince/Archbishop Leopold Firmian, 
the bad guy who expelled the 
Protestants, including the Scheraus's




















Some of the Salzburger Museum 
coverage of the matter




















Ditto


















Ditto again


















Me expressing my sentiments to Prince/
Archbishop Firmian (characteristically, perhaps,
standing under the wrong portrait; nobody's perfect)
















The Salzburger Museum, which also had a
very good exhibit on the Salzburg Mystique;
very interesting
















Under the Cathedral, Roman ruins, including
two layers of mosaic (fashions change...)














The cathedral is old
















But unremarkably Baroque


















The Prince/Archbishop's Residence is a grim
reminder that almost nothing of larger historical
significance ever happened in Salzburg

Salzburg Street Scenes

A composite of several days' travel in and around Salzburg
The main pedestrian street, the Getreidegasse, is always a
mad-house; reminded us of Pushkar during the camel fair







A Rickie Stevie-approved restaurant; we had a quick lunch
there one day








In the massive Christmas store; they do eggs for Xmas?








Signs on the Getreidegasse










Most popular sign on the Getreidegasse











Rathaus











Horse trough under the Monchsberg







Old market square








Cafe Tomascelli; we never could find a table









Getreidegasse another day; still a mob scene;
Salzburg's various audio-tours generally
come in nine languages, most we have ever
scene; and tour groups from everywhere














13th and 14th century buildings (restored in 19th and 20th
centuries) under the Monchsberg

Salzburg Scenes

Larger scenes of Salzburg, from several days' travels
Boat ride on the Salzach; yes, this is one of
the things we might not have ordinarily done;
but it was a nice way to relax for an hour













View from the Hohen Salzburg Fortress; the Fortress dates
from the 11th century; was never taken in battle; wisely
surrendered to Napoleon without a fight







View of the Fortress from our campground that evening










In the Salzburger Museum, a painting of the city as it
looked about the time the Scheraus' lived here







The Fortress now, from the summit of the Monchsberg,
one of Salzburg's several hills








It's a city of domes; from the Monchsberg








Larger view from the Monchsberg











Us on the Monchsberg

Mirabelle Gardens

Our first stop was Mirabelle Gardens, in the middle of the (newer) city, south side of the river Salzach
Rose and other flower garden 









Vicki by a unicorn we think we have a photo
of from '89












Mirabelle view











Us, in Mirabelle, with the Salzburg High
Fortress behind us

Salzburg: A Few Words of Explanation

The next six or eight posts, whenever we have internet long enough to upload them, are all about Salzburg. There are several reasons for this. First, Salzburg is the ancestral Sherouse (Scheraus) home. The Scheraus family emigated sometime in the 1730s, following Prince/Archbishop Firmian's 1731 edict expelling all Jews, Gypsies, and Protestants. The Scheraus's went first to Augsburg, then, in 1741, to the new colony of Georgia, settling with other Salzburgers at Ebeneezer and later New Ebeneezer, not far from Savannah. That's another story. Second, Salzburg is one of the prettiest small cities (c. 150,000) in the world, and a place with which we have considerable previous acquaintance. Third, it is one of the best-known music and festival cities in the world. W. A. Mozart owns the place; they even named the airport after him. And fourth, Salzburg has a very affordable tourist day-card, which, if used judiciously, can save a ton of money; and get you into a lot of places you might not have otherwise visited. We bought the 72-hour card, and it nearly paid for itself just in public transportation. Anyhow, on to Salzburg.

Salzkammergut

We spent the evening at an aire near Bad Aussee, torrential rains continuing. Since we were entering the Salzkammergut, the lake country east of Salzburg, we decided to watch The Sound of Music, much of which was filmed in the area.  Corny as it sounds, it's a movie we still enjoy. After the Grossglockner, we weren't going to climb any more mountains, nor ford any streams (too high with all the rain, etc.). Anyhow, the next day (Sunday?) we did a driving tour of the Salzkammergut, ending up at the Panorama Campground in Salzburg.
Traditional boats on Halstattsee; we had wanted to visit
Hallstatt again, as we did in 1989, but there was no RV
parking, and the natives did not seem friendly







One sees much evidence of logging in the Alps--logging
trucks like this one, mills scattered here and there; but
never any clear-cuts or anything unsightly












A canoe-catcher on the river (weir)











On Traunsee, approaching Gmund, the Traunkirchen, which
is pictured prominently in Sound of Music










Closer-up of Traunkirchen and its amazing
backdrop north of the Dachstein Gruppe












Market square in pretty Mondsee










The Mondsee Basilika, where Maria and the
Captain married













Interior














Mondsee and more of the Dachsteins










Austrians seem to think they have an identity
problem (I think a Jim Carey line in Dumb
and Dumber led to this)