Expulsion!

Prince/Archbishop Leopold Firmian, 
the bad guy who expelled the 
Protestants, including the Scheraus's

Some of the Salzburger Museum 
coverage of the matter

Ditto

Ditto again

Me expressing my sentiments to Prince/
Archbishop Firmian (characteristically, perhaps,
standing under the wrong portrait; nobody's perfect)

The Salzburger Museum, which also had a
very good exhibit on the Salzburg Mystique;
very interesting

Under the Cathedral, Roman ruins, including
two layers of mosaic (fashions change...)

The cathedral is old

But unremarkably Baroque

The Prince/Archbishop's Residence is a grim
reminder that almost nothing of larger historical
significance ever happened in Salzburg

Salzburg Street Scenes

A composite of several days' travel in and around Salzburg

The main pedestrian street, the Getreidegasse, is always a

mad-house; reminded us of Pushkar during the camel fair

A Rickie Stevie-approved restaurant; we had a quick lunch

there one day

In the massive Christmas store; they do eggs for Xmas?

Signs on the Getreidegasse

Most popular sign on the Getreidegasse

Rathaus

Horse trough under the Monchsberg

Old market square

Cafe Tomascelli; we never could find a table

Getreidegasse another day; still a mob scene;

Salzburg's various audio-tours generally

come in nine languages, most we have ever

scene; and tour groups from everywhere

13th and 14th century buildings (restored in 19th and 20th

centuries) under the Monchsberg

Salzburg Scenes

Larger scenes of Salzburg, from several days' travels

Boat ride on the Salzach; yes, this is one of

the things we might not have ordinarily done;

but it was a nice way to relax for an hour

View from the Hohen Salzburg Fortress; the Fortress dates

from the 11th century; was never taken in battle; wisely

surrendered to Napoleon without a fight

View of the Fortress from our campground that evening

In the Salzburger Museum, a painting of the city as it

looked about the time the Scheraus' lived here

The Fortress now, from the summit of the Monchsberg,

one of Salzburg's several hills

It's a city of domes; from the Monchsberg

Larger view from the Monchsberg

Us on the Monchsberg

Mirabelle Gardens

Our first stop was Mirabelle Gardens, in the middle of the (newer) city, south side of the river Salzach

Rose and other flower garden 

Vicki by a unicorn we think we have a photo

of from '89

Mirabelle view

Us, in Mirabelle, with the Salzburg High

Fortress behind us

Salzburg: A Few Words of Explanation

The next six or eight posts, whenever we have internet long enough to upload them, are all about Salzburg. There are several reasons for this. First, Salzburg is the ancestral Sherouse (Scheraus) home. The Scheraus family emigated sometime in the 1730s, following Prince/Archbishop Firmian's 1731 edict expelling all Jews, Gypsies, and Protestants. The Scheraus's went first to Augsburg, then, in 1741, to the new colony of Georgia, settling with other Salzburgers at Ebeneezer and later New Ebeneezer, not far from Savannah. That's another story. Second, Salzburg is one of the prettiest small cities (c. 150,000) in the world, and a place with which we have considerable previous acquaintance. Third, it is one of the best-known music and festival cities in the world. W. A. Mozart owns the place; they even named the airport after him. And fourth, Salzburg has a very affordable tourist day-card, which, if used judiciously, can save a ton of money; and get you into a lot of places you might not have otherwise visited. We bought the 72-hour card, and it nearly paid for itself just in public transportation. Anyhow, on to Salzburg.

Salzkammergut

We spent the evening at an aire near Bad Aussee, torrential rains continuing. Since we were entering the Salzkammergut, the lake country east of Salzburg, we decided to watch The Sound of Music, much of which was filmed in the area.  Corny as it sounds, it's a movie we still enjoy. After the Grossglockner, we weren't going to climb any more mountains, nor ford any streams (too high with all the rain, etc.). Anyhow, the next day (Sunday?) we did a driving tour of the Salzkammergut, ending up at the Panorama Campground in Salzburg.

Traditional boats on Halstattsee; we had wanted to visit

Hallstatt again, as we did in 1989, but there was no RV

parking, and the natives did not seem friendly

One sees much evidence of logging in the Alps--logging

trucks like this one, mills scattered here and there; but

never any clear-cuts or anything unsightly

A canoe-catcher on the river (weir)

On Traunsee, approaching Gmund, the Traunkirchen, which

is pictured prominently in Sound of Music

Closer-up of Traunkirchen and its amazing

backdrop north of the Dachstein Gruppe

Market square in pretty Mondsee

The Mondsee Basilika, where Maria and the

Captain married

Interior

Mondsee and more of the Dachsteins

Austrians seem to think they have an identity

problem (I think a Jim Carey line in Dumb

and Dumber led to this)

Grossglockner

Our next Alpine goal was the Grossglockner, Austria's big mountain, in the Hoch Tauern and the Tauern National Park there. We drove to Heiligenblut and stayed there in the same campground we stayed at with Rachel and Rebecca in 1989. Heiligenblut has not changed a lot. It was still raining, as in 1989, torrents, with very dim prospects of actually seeing the mountain the next day. We never really saw it in 1989. I do not know what micro-climatic feature makes this mountain and its weather so nasty.

Up on the Hohenalpenstrasse, the high alpine road, part of

which shoots over to the Grossglockner; looking back 
toward Heiligenblut

The Kaiser Franz Josef high place--visitor center,

restaurants, cafes, a 5-story parking garage

Us at the RV parking lot; the weather steadily improved for

a couple hours

The Grossglockner's major glacier, one of the largest in

the Alps

And, finally, a good look at the summit

I took one of the trails, the Gambrubeweg, I think, which

went through six tunnels before emerging on the side of

the adjacent mountain, the Fuchserl, I think; this is a water

chime...drops of water from above create a random sort of

melody

Complete view of the glacer and the summit, and also the

wand; although only 12,000 feet or so, it's a serious

mountain

After an hour's walk, I was rewarded with this display on

the birth of the Austrian National Park system, due to a 
man named Albert Wirth, who visited Yellowstone (the first

national park) in 1899 and came back to Austria with a

dream; he is pictured with John Muir; damn, I was proud...

Love the signage

Ditto

Click to enlarge and see people on the glacier below...

probably not very smart people

Anyhow, we finally got to see the Grossglockner. Did I mention that the temperatures were in the high 30s and it was snowing the whole time we were up there. What happened to summer?!

We drove on, through nearly the worst white-out I have seen, and then through more torrential rain, into the Salzkammergut, and stopped at an aire near Bad Aussee. G'day, mate!