Thursday, July 24, 2025

The Madeleine

Paris has more than its share of beautiful and historically significant churches, Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and more. It also has a few oddities, imitative or derivative religious structures that are huge and famous, at least among tourists, if not very French. One is the Church of the Madeleine, that is, of Mary Magdalene, Jesus' special lady friend who was popular among the Medieval French, since she was believed to have ended her days in Provence. (Somewhere in the previous posts...2019, maybe...I recounted visiting her shrine and viewing her mountain-top burial place). 

Anyhow, the Madeline, the church, as it is called, dates to the founding of the Place de la Concorde (then called the Place Louis XV), on the just-completed Rue Royale. The church was to serve as thanksgiving for the king's recovery from a serious illness, and its Greek temple exterior originated with his architects. The columns would complement those of the nearby Louvre. The Revolution and Napoleon had other ideas about what such a building could be used for (also the Place de la Concorde), but eventually it returned to being a ridiculously grandiose and out of place Greek temple/parish church. It was also considered to become Paris' first train station, but that's a different story...as well as its being considered an Expiatory for the Sin of the Revolution...that honor went to Paris' ugliest monstrosity, Montmartre. 

Interestingly, to me, the Madeleine has been a favorite among composers, musicians, and artists for their funerals—Chopin, Josephine Baker, Coco Chanel, to name a few. I'm still trying to imagine "La Conga Blicoti" performed in the cella of a wannabe Corinthian temple. Anyhow, the Wikipedia has its usual fine article detailing all this and ever more, and I recommend it for those seeking further information. The Christian church part, in the cella, contains much fine monumental sculpture as well as mosaics and other such, all 19th century, mostly glorifying French Christianity. BTW, the Madeleine was under wraps the last several years, and opened again just recently. For several years, we eyed it with curiosity during our visits to the wonderful Madeleine Decathlon.

[Jenny Lake campground, Grand Teton National Park, July 24th...]

View from the Place de la Concorde

If it's Tuesday we must be in Athens...

Humongous exterior sculpture program...dozens of fluted Corinthian
columns, as large as anything you'd see in the classical world, over-sized
statues of assorted saints, demi-gods, etc.

Interesting contemporary sculpture in the forecourt


Column hugger...Vicki poses for scale

Among the saints among the columns; four had their heads
blown off in an artillery bombardment by the Germans in 1918
or so, including, appropriately, St. Denis

Nave, I mean cella, view

Baptism by the baptismal font

Altar, something about Mary Magdalen, half-dome about Christianity
in France

Abaft from the beam, looking at yet another famous French symphonic
organ; there's no crossing here, since it is, thankfully, not a cruciform 
Greek temple

The usual perch pose

The great organ; Saint-Saens played here, among others

Bronze door; okay, it's not the Pantheon nor the
Baptistry at Florence

Impressive, despite its youth and imitative nature, not to mention its,
um, interesting history



1 comment:

Tawana said...

You know, we have never been there. Maybe because it has been under construction? Been by numerous times, but never inside. Hmmm.