Saturday, October 25, 2008

In Namche Again

This morning we woke to a Buddhist alarm call, at precisely 6 AM, cymbols, gongs, and horns from the monastery across the way. There are 55 monks in residence, we were told, and most of them seemed involved in the ensemble. If there was a cadence, a rhythm, a melody, a tune, I missed it; but then I still have much to learn about this part of the world. In any case, I walked over and listened for a bit: the real thing.

The early start was appropriate in that we had determined to make our way from Tengboche to Namche Bazar in one day. Going the other way, it had taken two days. The weather was fine, as usual, if cool, with views of Everest, Lohtse, Ama Dablam, and the rest. 1000 feet or so down to the Dudh Kosi, then 1000 or so back up the hillside. We were happy to trudge back into familiar Namche by 4 PM. The Khang Ri was full, so we are at the nicer Norling hotel. Still a guest-house, but with (cold) water on tap, hot water for a price, and western style toilets. Luxury! Hot showers and clean laundry at last!

Dinner at Tengboche featured a long and enjoyable conversation with a pair of experienced American climbers, Tom and Dave, both attorneys from CA, here to climb Loboche and then another higher peak west of the Khumbu. They had done Makulu a few years ago—Tom did Everest in 2003—and they have been climbing in Nepal since 1990. It was interesting to hear their perspectives on how things have changed here and on Himalayan climbing generally. They have also climbed in Wyoming, the Tetons and Winds, so we had some experiences to share.

Vicki's been under the weather since Gorak Shep—stomach problems, cold, muscular aches, sick of high altitude trekking conditions generally. I have diagnosed it as Khumbuitis. I am OK, if fatigued. We both look forward to a cleaner, warmer, less demanding environment. Had there been a cable car to take back down from Kala Pattar (I assume the Chinese are working on this on their side), we would have done it.

Tomorrow we'll go to the Saturday market at Namche and the ongoing Tibetan market, then visit the Sherpa Museum and the Sagarmatha National Park Museum. Then probably crash for the afternoon and try to get warm. Barring further changes in conditions or plans, we'll trek to Thame Sunday, return Monday, rest Tuesday, then head back to Lukla for our flight to Kat on Thursday the 30th. The hotel at Kat looks more and more like paradise!



Vicki adds:

October 26—Phakding, Nepal

We are one day away from Lukla and hopefully, the plane to Kathmandu. I have basically been sick for a week, nothing too horrible, just upset stomach and loss of appetite. But it has made the last part of the trip not very good for me. Also, downhill is just not my favorite—my knees don't like being brakes. Mingma has been great to help me over the rough spots in the trail. The weather has been glorious during the day—bright blue skies make a great back drop for the snowy mountains. However, it clouds up some about 2 and the wind comes up—making for some really cold evenings and nights.

The trails have been really crowded—last year 8,000 people made the trek in October, plus all the porters, yaks, and local populace. All of them faster than we are. However, we feel like we have made many folk's day; they see us, and feel better about the progress they are making.

I spend my hiking day dreaming about hot showers and bathtubs, a sink not shared by 60 other people, sheets, western toilets, and central heating. Coming to a place like this makes you fully realize how lucky you are, to be middle class in the US.. Our guide is making $15 a day and the porter $6 plus tip. They work very hard and live in what we would consider primitive conditions, yet they are no less deserving of a better life then we are. Certainly, it is an eye opening experience.

The plight of the porters is especially moving. At some of the tea houses, when we have tried to buy the porter a drink, he has been refused service. In general, the porters don't come from the Sherpa ethnic group but from another “lower” caste from a lower altitude. At night the Sherpa guides sleep in the dining room or dormitory of the lodges and are welcome around the stove. The porters have a “shelter” in each village that is used by both the trekking porters and the goods porters. It is usually a rough stone building with no windows or doors; if they want a fire or food they must find their own. The loads they carry range from 70 to 140 lbs. Our guide used to be a porter and says conditions are greatly improved with the shelters. Until a few years ago, the porters stayed in caves and under tarps in the woods or held down by rocks. One feels badly about having them shoulder your backpack, but without the trekkers they would have no access to cash at all—the same with most of the guides. Subsistence farming is what they do the rest of the time. It is a world light years away from Missoula, MT.

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