Thursday, July 6, 2023

Daum Museum in Nancy's Musee des Beaux Arts

The Daum brothers, Auguste and Antoni, pioneered glassmaking techniques and were at the forefront of Art Nouveau both in the Nancy School and worldwide. Daum glass renown has survived well beyond that time and is still in great demand. One of the two Daum stores is in Nancy--we visited briefly, hoping it was the outlet store (😀)--but, more importantly, the museum of Daum glass is in the lower floor of the Museum of Fine Arts. Vicki is rather more into fine glass, but even I could find the display of a century+ of Daum glass, particularly the older work, fairly overwhelming...beautiful to look at, marvelous to ponder how it was designed and made.

Of course there are antique stores all over old Nancy, and Daum
glass is much of what one sees in them; with price tags generally
in the $ thousands...

The museum was built over the remnants of Nancy's old fortifications,
so the glass museum shares the space with these remnants and artefacts
from them

Also some other glass; I think this was Baccarat? Also from the
region

Helpful model of fortifications

On to the Daum...the interpretive stuff was quite good

Opening artsy/glassy view

More interpretation; and in English too

Half or so of the collection





For a mushroom admirer we know

Return of the Giant Attack Beetle



Return of the fortifications...sort of like the Louvre
in this respect

Long after the Belle Epoque



Most recently

Even if you're not into glass nor Art Nouveau, it's a pretty incredible
place



Sunday, July 2, 2023

Grand Cafe Foy Lunch Interlude

Museum visits can be so tiring. Not even half way through the Musee, we needed rest and the restoration that a good restaurant can provide. Fortunately, the Grand Cafe Foy was right next door on the Place Stanislaus, and it provided both restoration and amusement.

Table with a view....of the Stanislaus statue, Grand Opera
and Grand Hotel in view, the square, etc.

We figured Quiche Lorrain was the proper thing to order; and it
was decidedly better than the frozen versions one gets at Picard or
Franprix

Note finely-layered texture; and no soggy bottom

Entertainment was provided by several passing hen and chick parties


Another group approaches
Today's wedding at the nearby Hotel de Ville

Luncheon highlight was the Coupe Lorraine, mirabelle
sherbert with alcool and marmalade of mirabelles (a variety
of plum favored hereabouts); quite a bit of alcool

And the show went on...


Saturday, July 1, 2023

Nancy's Musee des Beaux Arts

As with other things in Nancy, we underestimated the Musee des Beaux Artes, thinking we might do it in a couple hours. How good could a provincial art museum be, anyway? We spent much of the day there, taking a lunch break between the fine regular collection and the extraordinary collection of Daum glass, which will be a separate post. Below, as usual, just some biggies and personal favorites, with many others relegated to the eventual out-takes. And, again, the whole museum is available for a digital tour at https://musee-des-beaux-arts.nancy.fr/en/visit/download-the-application.

Tintoretto, Deposition, 1580

Vasari, Saint Trinity, 1558

Lucas of Leiden, Passion, 1533

Martinus Roejmerswalen, The Money Counters, end of 16th;
popular genre piece; love those hats

Jan Breughel, the Younger, Don't Touch Me (JC with Mary Magdalen),
1625; seriously; the title in French is Ne me touche pas

Caravaggio, Annunciation, 1610; note angel derriere

Pierre-Paul Rubens, Transfiguration, 1605; same huge size and
composition as the version that is a center-piece in the Vatican Museum

Georges de la Tour, The Woman and the Flea, 1638;
pet flea?

Claude Gellee, called Lorrain, Pastoral Scene, 1635; everywhere
else he's Claude Gellee or even Claude Lorrain; but here in
Lorrain, he's The Lorrain; pretty much his entire career in Italy

The Lorrain, Battle Scene near a Fortress, 1638

Ribera, Baptism of Christ, 1643; definitely not full
immersion

Luini, Circumcision, 1632; never miss a Luini; never
miss a Circumcision

Charles LeBrun, Virgin and Infant, 1650

Poussin, Entry of Christ into Jerusalem; due to the orange glow,
I can spot a Poussin at about 40 paces; I theorize he was beta carotene
deficient; should have eaten more carrots; also almost his whole career
in Italy

Fragonard, Apotheosis of Saint Louis, 1758; didn't see
a Watteau; alas...

A pair of Art Nouveau (frames), Victor Prouve, Joy of Life, 1904

And his L'isle heureuse, 1902

Delacroix, The Battle of Nancy, 1833 (Lorrain won, the Duke of
Burgundy getting skewered as above)

Gerard, Portrait of a Young Woman and Boa, 1810
Gustav Dore, Sortie from Sebastopol, 1855; personally, I think Dore
is the most underrated painter of the mid-19th

Courbet, Portrait of Zelie Courbet (his sister), 1853

Auguste Feyen-Perrin, Barque of the Caron, 1860s; hey, it worked
for Gericault 

In addition to fantasy illustrations and large format 
group portraits (the Orsay has two or three), Dore also
did landscapes, here, his Mountain Landscape, 1870
Monet, Sunset at Etretat, 1883

Emile Friant, Les Amoureux, 1888

Roualt, Pierrotins, 1932

Manet, L'Automne, 1882

Modigliani, Blonde Woman, 1918

And just because I never got a decent picture of the
statue on Place Stanislaus, here is Rene-Michel Slotz' 
bust of Stanislaus, 1740