Overnight In Pak Beng

We arrived at Pak Beng about 5:30. A hotel van took us to Le Grand, the big resort there, another beautiful room/villa and dinner.

I was navigating all the way, although Google Maps was a bit sketchy regarding
the course of the river

Le Grand, Pak Beng, Laos

Right across the river from an elephant reserve

The tour boats were packed in exactly like sardines

The deck of our villa

And view of the river

Another beautiful room...but this time we were worthy, having shelled out $90,
a splurge; we figured a remote village in darkest Laos might be worth it; turns out
it was not quite that remote; but still a good decision; beautiful furniture, floors,
all teak

Sunset on the Mekong

And a full moon, heading to dinner at the hotel

Only kind of beer I had in Laos, Beerlao

My appetizer was a fairly decent Tom Yum; sadly I failed to photograph the
triple curry we shared for dinner

Dessert: local fruits and coconut ice cream

A bit of the Le Grand complex, reception, and the restaurant; being on the side
of the hill, everything was pretty steep and not very friendly for the mobility-
impaired

Next morning at breakfast, across the river

You can lead an elephant to water, but...

Two Days On The Mekong River, 1

Our next major city was Luang Prabang, the capital of Laos in (French) colonial times. The bus from Chiang Khong had not appeared attractive--long drive through the mountains, not air conditioned, no toilets--so we opted to take the two-day boat tour down the Mekong, stopping overnight in Pak Beng, and also for a few sights along the way. We were on the water perhaps six hours each day, lunch and snacks provided. There were about 40 other passengers, all European except for us and one other American. The crew, including the captain, a guide, a cook, and an assistant who did pretty much everything, was entirely Laotian. The tour was conducted by Nagi of Mekong.

Our boat, whose name I did not catch; it was in Laotian

Our captain; very good at reading the waters; IMHO

Command and control center

Captain's shrine

"Steady as you go"

Most of the passengers; most very nice; only one asshole, the American, of course,
loud and obnoxious

A small long-tail whizzes by; maybe best termed a short-tail

According to our guide, the river was down about 7 meters (!), with a green
color he had not seen and with much exposed (and interesting) rock; all kinds of
bamboo poles and plastic bottles serve as markers for shallow or dangerous
water; this stretch of the Mekong passes over bedrock, running maybe 10mph
(my estimate)

The cruise passed by a dozen or more villages, most on much higher ground

After being picked up at our Chiang Krong hotel, we had to go through both
Thai and Laotian immigration, etc., and so didn't get off until 9:45 or so; here's
one serving of lunch, fried fish, veggies, more

Another tour boat about to pass

Obviously a longer haul tour boat

Many, many interesting rock formations; this one, the Dog

Us, on the bow; I had suggested a Titanic pose, but she wouldn't go for it

Humongous sand dunes lining the shores

Passing sometimes very close to rocks; as I said, the captain was very good at
maneuvering this long boat in the fast water

Lay of strata, folding; Geology 101 (which I barely passed)

Making brooms

Another village

White water, narrow passage

Water buffalo and Brahma cattle all up and down the river

About to land and visit this village

Anchor

We stayed on the boat: too hot for a climb, particularly with no steps

There's gold in them thar sands; seriously; we'll see people panning further on

Village fishing boats, some powered, some not

More village activity along the shore; including panning for gold

On To Chiang Khong

Ever onward.  Our next major destination was Luang Prabang, capital of Laos when it was a French possession. French colonial architecture. Maybe some decent baguettes or crepes or coffee. To get there, however, we had to get to the Mekong River, to Chiang Khrong in Thailand, and then, do a two day river cruise. In order to get to Chiang Khong from Ching Rai we opted for a taxi. 50U$D. The bus did not sound appealing. It was, perhaps, Vicki's last long-distance taxi ride, since we covered the distance in world land-speed record time, often doing 100kph in 50kph zones, and rarely passing other vehicles with adequate distance or visibility. (We have never seen police in rural Thailand). Anyhow, we got to Chiang Khong in good time, found our hotel, the excellent Baan Sakuna. It took the afternoon to recover from the excitement of the taxi ride. Scarcely a kilometer away, however, was a Tesco (a Tesco!) with a KFC (!!). It was certainly the worst meal I have had in Thailand, but other members of our party loved it. And touring the Tesco was divine.

Great place

We are not worthy: $40

View from our room, the Mekong perhaps half a kilometer away

We are not worthy

Huge papaya

Drying corn on the road to Tesco

A different concept, perhaps, of the Colonel

See, the Thai chef's knife is a cross between a traditional
chef's knife and a cleaver

Chiang Rai Hill Tribe Museum

It's a modest affair, but with our knowledge of Hmong people in Missoula--students and colleagues in Vicki's case--it was something we felt we should do. There is a short 2012 slide show and a number of seemingly dated exhibits. In a sense, datedness doesn't matter for these people--things have not changed for them. Click to enlarge some of the signage. Some thoughtful points are made.

This is what you resort to when nothing else works

 

The gift shoppe, we Vicki did modestly stimulate the local economy