Thursday, February 27, 2020

Hanoi Scenes, 1

We were in Hanoi for the better part of five days, taking walks nearly every day, sometimes to specific sights, sometimes not. The old city, where we were (as well as most of the sights), is a dense and intense place, full of curiosities and wonders. (And motor-cycles, -scooters, and -bikes; whatever moves in Hanoi is generally on the back of a moto.) I took perhaps a thousand pix, and it will take some time to work through them, much less draft blog posts. Then there's Halong Bay and then trekking in Sapa. Somehow, neither Vicki nor I have ever been into "relaxation" travel.
Welcome to Hanoi International Airport; a 45 minute flight from Luang Prabang
that left early (as in China 12 years ago, the plane leaves when everyone's there,
not at the scheduled time--an important lesson to remember if traveling in these
parts)

Glitzy bridge over the Red River; yes, it turns pink, then yellow, then purple...

Business Hanoi, which we never saw

Our first glimpse of the moto culture; carrying flowers to the market
















































































Our next (boutique) hotel, O'Gallery Premier; at first I
thought it was Irish; no, an Oriental Hospitality Group
property; Hang Bong Street

Ample and very nice


Down the street (which included several more boutique
hotels and then stores and shoppes of every description) was
this electrics shop; at first I thought maybe they were
extracting copper or something else from all these dead
appliances; nope, they're repairing them! right out on the
sidewalk

Most properties, I would guess, are no more than about
thirty feet wide; so, as in the case of this hotel, you build up

Every nook and cranny, sometimes maybe only six feet
wide, has a shop of some sort

When the French left in 1954, our food tour guide said, they left behind just two
good things: baguettes and coffee; nearly every block has a cafe of some sort as
well as a shop like this that sells an incredible variety of beans and grounds

Hat shop on wheels

Tiny alleys, sometime wide enough just to get a moto
inside, along every street

Grandfather doing what grandfathers do; there are roosters all over, seeming
pets; and quite loud

A tree that has seen some grim history; but lived to see
perhaps the best years Vietnam has yet had

Our first walk was to and around nearby Hoan Kiem Lake

Thus, with one of its two ancient temples

Need a new North Face backpack? There are hundreds of shops such as this
selling them; counterfeit? you ask...maybe...but probably made at the same factory
that makes the real ones

Still processing...

In the pretty park surrounding the lake

Entrance to one of the temples; we demurred

War monument of note

Temple in the lake

Other, much older temple, 10th century

Leader of note we'll meet later

Convoy of "cyclos" carrying tourists

Street scene...a big street for the old city

Sunday, February 23, 2020

Interim Update From Sapa

February 24th. So we have done four or five days in Hanoi, our three day cruise on Halong Bay, and are now beginning our second day of trekking in Sapa, in far north Vietnam. Tomorrow we'll go back to Hanoi and then fly to Hue, where we'll spend five days...resting, sightseeing, and maybe catching up on the blog.
Hanoi; we've heard the traffic is even crazier in Ho Chi Minh City

On Halong Bay

Light trekking near Sapa, overlooking Cat Cat village

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Luang Prabang Out-Takes

As I write, we have been in Hanoi four days, pretty overwhelmed by this crazy city, and are about to depart for a five day trip that will take us out to Halong Bay and beyond and then to the interior, Sapa, for some light trekking. Probably no internet for a while, so I will stop the blog here for now.
Sunset on the Mekong, down from our hotel

Breakfast: interesting presentation of a small sausage; I opted for the bacon

One of the things you do in Luang Prabang is get up at 5 in the morning to witness
the procession of Buddhist monks going on their morning begging; at 4AM on the
appointed morning, Vicki was awake, and said turn off the alarm; probably we're
both going to come back as dung beetles; anyway, I construed this to be food left out
for the monks

Complicating my trash bins of the world opus

First plastic-free hotel!
 
Also perhaps first ants restaurant; click to enlarge

Kalanchoe, one of my favorite plants because it's so easy to
propagate...

The little leaflets fall off, root, and then become new plants; everything grows
here

Independent travel lesson #14: whenever a van takes you somewhere, always
get a photo and its license number

Beautiful flower in the middle of the street

Cottage industry in the old town: washing tourists' clothes

We have seen no RVs in southeast Asia, until Luang Prabang, where we saw
this and two others

Vicki, outside the Vietnamese consulate


Right out of the Book of Revelation, right?

Salvador Dali shrine

Spare wat parts

Best kitler yet, for me

Luang Prabang Scenes, 2

A bit of a miscellany...
Some nights we ate Lao food (very similar to Thai)

Some nights not: bread! Pain! A baguette!

At the French colonial restaurant l'Elephant, her beef medaliions

My duck

Dessert

At another place, wall decor of camembert rounds

Pork at Khaiphaen, a  noted training restaurant

Best green beans ever, brown butter, sugar, lime

Banana fritters with cashew

Khaiphaen (sorry, no photo of l'Elephant, which was the French colonial)

Another day we visit the national museum, which turned out
to be the palace, and effects, of the former kings (installed by
the French) but deposed by the Pathet Laos in the mid-70s;
no pix, and also no shoes inside



























Outside, there was this over-sized Stalinist statue of the last king, Sisavangvong--
oddly

After the revolution, he and the crown prince were sent to work on a farm, and,
long story short, eventually worked and starved to death; why the Russians
wanted to memorialize the last king, and why the Laos would continue to display
it, is a mystery; at least to me

Luang Prabang public library


























































Vicki had read of the Lao childrens' book boat, which distributes free books on the
rivers to Laotian children


And wanted to contribute


American room in the library