Monday, May 27, 2019

Auxerre Cathedral, Crypt and Sculpture

Did I mention it is a St. Stephen church? Apparently they, like Bourges, didn't get the memo about the Marian cult.
South tympanum

Not entirely sure what is going on here, just inside the south door

Interestingly, there are funny faces all around the interior of the ambulatory, the
most sacred space; usually, they're on the outside, which is considered profane
(by some)

Yes, she prayed here, February 27, 1429, so the plaque said

Now headed down to the 11th century crypt and its very old
frescoes: Behave Yourself!


What remains is largely from Revelations: 4 Horseman, and a
Sauveur en cheval; Crowley

Another Horseman; Miller

Another Horseman; Layden

Yet another Horseman; Stuhldreher

Today's Pantokrator; Rockne?









































































































Revelations 19:11-16: "Now I saw Heaven opened and, behold, a white horse.
And He who sat on him was called Faith and True and in Righteousness He
judges and makes war." Etc.





















Googling "Jesus on horseback" takes you for quite a ride. Hi-ho, Silver.


Meanwhile, back upstairs, among the interior funny faces, this cathedral has not one
but two Green Men; only one is pictured, however

The 90 degree stuff reminded me of some other Gothic...
Senlis, Noyon? Looks like an accordion

Ample sculpture at Auxerre, but fairly degraded by weather, Revolutions...

Judgement


They never got around to finishing the tower, nor building
another, and, while Auxerre appears balanced and harmonious
on the inside, it is anything but on the outside

Auxerre Cathedral, Architecture And Windows

Most of Auxerre's cathedral was built between 1215 and 1233, atop an 11th century church, the crypt of which largely remains. Auxerre is thus a high Gothic, age-wise. It is not a large cathedral nor is it in my opinion flamboyant, but it is attractive and interesting. Its major attractions, in addition to its age and architecture, are its 13th century windows, in the ambulatory, and the 11th century frescoes in the crypt, depicting, among other things, Jesus on horseback, something utterly unique in Christian art history.
Approaching from the south

Organ (note three clusters of 40mm Bofors defending the organ...just kidding)

Very old painting on the south wall by the transept

Rose window

Nave view...balance, harmony, light...

Elevation...not a huge nor particularly high church

Another rose window

Choir; 16th century,  plain and small

Altar

Just a few of the windows, ambulatory, 13th century

Jesse's "Tree"

Life of Jesus

Not sure

Higher up

Impressive windows though not as accessible at Bourges;
nor as clean



Sunday, May 26, 2019

Auxerre Scenes

We saw Bourges cathedral on the 16th and decided that evening we'd do at least one more major sight before storing the camper for our month in a Paris apartment. The sight we settled on was Auxerre, an important Medieval center that promised a number of attractions, not least of which was that, although we have done much of northern Burgundy, we'd never yet made it to Auxerre. We drove over on the morning of the 17th, immediately found the aire de camping-cars, right on the river Yonne, and, after lunch, headed for the old town and cathedral. Two days' visiting the attractions and wandering the streets confirmed our choice, and we found it pleasing that, after so much travel, we could still be so impressed with something new.
From the aire de camping cars, looking across the river, up at Auxerre's cathedral, one
of four great buildings one sees, panning around

Next, another Gothic, the abbey church of St. Germain

And another, the abbey church of St. Eusebius























































And finally the Kansas cathedral of St. Glutena; we're in France: even the
grain elevators are beautiful


Remaining bit of city wall and tower, near St. Germain's

Just wandering, beautiful houses everywhere

Street scene

Ditto

Half-timbered stuff everywhere



Street cafe decor

Differential effects of red vs white wine (as we'll see, this is a big wine-producing
area)


Wood carving on some of the oldest buildings


Big square

Beautiful clock tower; based on Cinderella's castle, some
say






























































Unusual carving on building

Statue of local author La Brettone and friend

Another famous Auxerre personage was Cadet Roussel; a marching song mocking
him was popular in the Revolution; the city's self-guided walking tour follows in
his footsteps, so to speak















































































Cadet Roussel statue

Helpful model of old Auxerre



Not a lot of art nuvo here, but a little

Beautiful place, nonetheless


And another memorable meal at 

La Quai, on the Yonne