Antico Arezzo

There are many things to see in Arezzo...Francesa's Legend of the True Cross fresco cycle, a Petrarch house, a Cimabuie crucifix at the San Domenico church, Vasari's house, and more. We were there for the monthly antiques show, however, having seen all the rest. (See http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2017/11/arezzo-2017.html for previous visits). Not that we are buying--just there are so many curiosities and interesting things at such markets.  We stayed at the local sosta and ventured into town both Saturday and Sunday, the latter by way of the re-discovered scala mobili (escalator) we had enjoyed in 2011. It's a gorgeous town, well mixing the Renaissance and the contemporary.

The antiques fair was founded way back in 1968 (AD), a good year

The public library, with ties to Petrarch, the Medici

Meanwhile, in Sorrento, grand-daughter Penelope in one of the more artful shots ever

The San Domenico church; last time we were there we
bought Girl Scout cookies from the porch

This time, however, it was mostly the Cimabuie crucifix

 

Along the scala mobili

Cathedral; and market

On the big piazza

Blacksmith demonstration (and sale of ironware)

The market begins in the big piazza and then radiates through many streets and
alleys

Quite a show

Verdi At The Orvieto Cathedral

As we walked the nave it was obvious that some major event was unfolding in the chancel: risers, chairs, music stands, instrument cases, all kinds of sound and TV equipment. By the time we finished our tour of the cathedral, the whole symphony, chorus, soloists, technicians, stage hands, and others, had assembled. We sat for quite a while listening to the rehearsal of Verdi's Requiem Mass by the Teatro San Carlos symphony and chorus. That's the Naples opera, folks, the largest house in Italy, as I recall. I'm not a Verdi fan, but it was impossible not to be moved, even transported by such glorious music in such a glorious setting.

Favorites From Orvieto Cathedral

There's much to appreciate at this cathedral: the overall concept and architecture, the enormous west facade with its gorgeous sculpture and mosaics, the coloring, inside and out, the alabaster and stained glass windows, the chancel frescoes, the two major chapels with their sculptures and frescoes--and chiefly the "new" chapel, with its older frescoes by Fra Angelica and its newer ones, c. 1500, by Luca Signorelli. It is the last to which we always gravitate and linger in. This time, oddly, we had the whole chapel to ourselves for a few minutes. There was much else going on in the cathedral that afternoon. Next post. Again, see http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2017/11/orvieto-2017.html for previous posts on Orvieto and its cathedral.

West facade; best in Italy, for my money

There are lots of zebra churches in Italy, but only one Gothic/zebra; I think

Panning around the major scenes of Signorelli's frescoes: here, "Bad Stuff Happens,"
(my title) wherein bad stuff indeed happens, with Signorelli himself (left) looking on;
center right you have the Anti-Christ assisting Savanarola in addressing the throng

Heaven; the prancing around without (many) clothes looks like fun

These two panels constitute one of the walls; more stuff on the ceiling

Pix of famous (Italian) authors here and there

Opposite wall: Resurrection

Going to Hell

Personal favorite

The whole wall and half ceiling

Some of Fra Angelica's contribution up on the ceiling

What happens when you wear suggestive clothing to the
cathedral

Honoring the artist, Luca Signorelli

Doctors of Wisdom looking on

Now in the opposite chapel, telling the story of how the Doctrine of Transubstantiation
was proven in the 13th century

The relic of the proof is, wouldn't you know, under the table

The very famous "'Atta girl, Mom" mosaic in the chancel

Two Hours At Orvieto's San Giovenale

Sometimes one's desire to see old things, things that have stood the test of time, etc., can lead astray. In 2017, we determined to see this little church, constructed in 1004, with 12th century frescoes, etc. Unfortunately we got there just in time for the three-hour lunch break, but resolved to come back another time. This was that time. We arrived at 5:30PM, observing the church's closing time of 6:30PM, and feeling good about our prospects. Unfortunately, we were unaware that there was a daily mass from 5-6:30, no visitors allowed. (The tourist bureau really should post this rather than merely saying the church is open from 3:00 to 6:30.) (Oh well). So, at 5:30 we elected to wait out the mass, thinking it surely would be over by 6:00. Think again, pagan-breath; and don't call me Shirley. We sat out in the windy chill mostly, occasionally sticking our heads in the door to hear the priestly mumbo-jumbo and see whether the final amen was near. At 6:45, the two priests and two nuns and perhaps twenty parishioners finally gave up. Vicki plopped a coin in the Divine Illumination Machine (DIM) while the amen was still echoing off the 11th century walls, and I began snapping pix of the frescoes, the best of which appear below. All in all, it was not so great, but at least we have the immense satisfaction of knowing there will be no third try for San Giovenale.

Note KKK types

The Maesta; methinks

Mini-Me