Friday, July 20, 2018

Ljubljana Art Nouveau

Or Secession, or Modernista, or whatever you call the architecture of the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Little Ljubljana has its share, well worth seeking out. The names of almost all these buildings have changed in the past century, but the beauty has endured, at significant private and public cost no doubt. It is one of the great attractions of this city. I'll try to add names in due course...
On Preseren Square 

The Gorgeous Union Hotel
















































Some of the interior...






Across the street
Ditto

Interior; formerly a bank, now law offices; the guard let us in for just this one shot
The Galerie Emporium



Staiurcase

Door detail



Post Office; seriously









Half of a square with towers at each corner





OK, not Barcelona or Paris, but pretty neat nonetheless


LjubLjana Skycraper

In 1933, the Balkans got their first skyscraper, a 12 story building in Ljubljana known simply as The Skycraper. It is sort of Modernisme in design, and we figured it would be a more interesting vantage point than the castle.
Massive atlantes at the building next door

On The Skyscraper
























We chose the elevator instead

The city, looking across to the castle










































OK, not all of Ljubljana is beautiful

Note big mountains, and storm, in background



Big theater

The Two Towers

The beautiful art nuvo PO; in the background, apartment
blocks from a different era

Just a smidge of the Triple Bridge

Ljubljana's Plecnik Sites

Some of them. Josez Pleznik was a Ljubljana resident who studied architecture with Otto Wagner in Vienna, did some important work there, then some in Prague, then returned to his native city to finish out his career there, mostly undertaking the re-design of the city's public spaces after an 1895 earthquake. He is revered in Ljubljana, sort of like Gaudi in Barcelona or Mucha in Prague or Horta in Brussels. We were not so impressed, but we did spend some time searching out and looking at some of his work.
Originally, the Ursuline HS that Plecnik designed; later
named for him; Vicki thought the iron doors were interesting

Plecnik's Cobbler's Bridge

Information concerning which, just in case you, like I, don't
quite get it; he was really into columns, classical stuff; in
fact, the town is littered with columns and such he left behind


Now we're at the Triple Bridge; at Preseren Square, where six roads meet and
have to cross the river; Plecnik's solution was to add two more bridges, side
by side; impossible to photograph except from above; sort of like Malfunction
Junction in Missoula

Beginning of his Central Markets structure; classical, no?

Another stray column left behind

Another bit of the Triple Bridge


Behind one of the main churches, another Plecnik tidbit

Plecnik's lifelong love, his Beatrice, his Dulcinea, if you prefer...she married
well, that is, not him

By one of the churches; note column

Maybe a kind of phallic thing?

More Central Market

Note stray column


Lunch view of Triple Bridge

Plecnik's masteripiece (they say), the National University Library Building;
connecting this with the other work we saw and with the Secessionist tradition
he grew out of remains to this day not well understood, at least by me

Pic of a pic: reading room: we are so sorry about the Macintosh building fires
in Glasgow....

OK, some of the interiors connect

Note columns

Exterior view of entrance

Ground up exterior view: a rock-climber's Paradiso...
top-belayed, bail-outs on every floor, nicely-spaced
footholds and handholds...a 5.8-5.9, I'd say

Note nearby stray column