Malta, 9: Tarxien Temples

As soon as we hopped off, the day picked up, indeed, it picked up to be one of our best megalithic days ever: the Tarxien Temples, followed by the Hypogeum, all five-star attractions if you're into such things. The Tarxien Temples date to the high neolithic, 3,500 BC to 2,000 BC on Malta, roughly the same as elsewhere in the megalithic world (mostly on the Atlantic: Portugal, Brittany, Ireland, UK...). The Tarxien complex was discovered in the usual way: a farmer trying to plow a field and hitting big rocks. The local archaeologist, Sir Themistocles Zammit (I swear I am not making this up) was called, much digging ensued, and the rest is history. Tarxien became one of the best known among Malta's World Heritage Sites. And among all megalithic sites.

From the central station in Valletta we caught a bus out to the suburb of Tarxien,
maybe 4-5 miles from the center; the signage was relatively good, if not in
English

The streets were interestingly decorated, for what reason
we could not discern

Anyhow, we made it; alas, we did not take any selfies

Helpful illustration, which you can click to enlarge; Tarxien is several distinct
temples, built over a one thousand year stretch

Since 2015, the whole site has been tented over, both for protection from (some
of) the elements and for the comfort of visitors; we are looking at the remains
of the south temple

Thus

Megaliths, indeed; these puppies are big but also finely worked; one wonders
what the sculptors at Bru na Boinne or at Gavrinis could have done with this
limestone (more carving in the next post)

The central temple, the largest of Malta's megalithic structures, with, count
'em, six apses; the other big ones, as at Ggantija, for example, have four

Looking now at the east temple, oldest

Part of the walk-way that takes you through the complex

The tents are enormous; the interpretive signage excellent; three cheers for 
Heritage Malta!

Me, for scale; not my best Indiana Jones pose

Some of the megaliths were plastered, it seems 

Flooring: here, thick limestone slabs

Malta, 8: Hopping Malta

Our Malta transportation cards included free public transportation for the week, a ride across the Grand Harbor, a hop-on/hop-off bus ride, and perhaps some more. I had scored tickets for the Hypogeum for Thursday afternoon, prior to which we would see Malta's other most important neolithic site, the Tarxsen temple complex. So we had some time to kill Thursday morning. The hop-on/hop-off bus tour of the southern part of the island was perfect: nearly identifiable glimpses of nearly interesting sights while enduring sun and wind and sand exposure (Sahara winds) in the company of...well, I don't want to be rude. Not me. Anyhow, I am sure there are hop-on/hop-off rides elsewhere in the world that are OK. And we did succeed in killing some time.

At a harbor on the southwest side of the island...traditional fishing boats and
an enormous ship of unknown nature

Container city, ship-building, and marine agriculture

Containers

All over Malta and Gozo, dry stone fences; many undoubtedly ancient

Hopping on and off

Major learning experience: Playmobil, Lego's competitor, is based in Malta;
seriously

We think this might have been a refugee camp; Malta is right in the middle
of the refugee exodus from North Africa

Still quarrying that good creamy limestone, six millennia and counting

Southwest coast

In the distance, an uninhabited island that the RN and RAF used for target
practice in WWII; now a bird sanctuary

More rugged coast

Malta, 7: On To St. Julian's

On Wednesday, June 6th, we moved on to our new home, the Hotel Meridien, at St. Julian's, Balotta Bay, a bay or two north of Valletta, the capital, and its historic Grand Harbor. On the Big Island. Although by no means our first 5 star hotel, we spent the first few hours exploring and gawking, then dining and walking about the neighborhood.

Our hotel, the Meridien

Balotta Bay from one of our two balconies

Looking toward Valletta

Living area

Dining area and looking toward the entry hall

Bedroom

One of two bathroom suites; I spent the first hour or so muttering "we are not
worthy...we are not worthy," while Vicki, who does the finances, countered
"yes we are, yes we are"

Among many little extras

Enjoying an upgrade or two, we made ourselves familiar with the executive
lounge; snacks, hors d'ouvres, and especially...

The DIY bar

I used my time well, experimenting, comparing among Campari and sodas,
Aperol Spritzes, Negronis, and other such; Vicki focused on coconut rum
and milk, a tropical version of the Argentinian favorite, gin and milk

We ate that evening at a place called Wigi's, down the street, overlooking the
bay and a water polo match

My Moroccan lamb; the lamb was good, but somehow
they forgot to add the seasoning; I surmise the largely
British clientele keeps things ultra-bland

Her veal piccata; sort of

Mediterranean fries and ketchup

St. Julian's and the next bay north are apparently where the
action is, among younger people, including the natives; we did
our paseo there, enjoying the sights and sounds, etc.; also
checking out a molecular restaurant...

Perhaps a church converted to disco?

An M&S! Disappointingly, no clotted cream, however

Street scene

Hookah bars

And, sandwiched in among the casinos, clubs and such, a
marine massage parlor