Monday, June 18, 2018

Malta, 6: Gozo Scenes

Miscellaneously...
A main street...the thing to notice is all the balconies...

Mediterranean climate...warmer Mediterranean climate...
pretty much everything grows...maybe not Sitka Spruce

Most of the balconies are plain framed; some are rather more
interesting

After Ggantija, we decided to hop on the bus to Marsalforn, on the eastern
side, a newer development

At a restaurant there, associated with the Cafe Jubilee in Victoria; so is your
Pizza Hut certified by the Associazzione Verace Pizza Napolitana?! And why
not?! And why are you still eating there?!

My salmon salad

Her, um, Italian dish

Beach-side bench with table...don't think the resturateurs approve

It's in his genes...and more power to him

Among the many hill-top towns

Another narrow mountain-top track, another bus-to bus encounter

Scene of Mgarr harbor from our suite

Below the Gothic whatever down from the hotel

In Victoria the next day; I was there bright and early to score special tickets to
the Hypogeum...Racecourse Street

The entire Gozo Channel Lines fleet in action

Farewell to Grand Hotel Gozo, center; nice place

Arches and caves on Comino, the island between Gozo and Malta;; Comino is
officially uninhabited, except for the 10-50k tourists who visit daily; it has a
Blue Lagoon, but we have already seen two or three of those, right?


Malta, 5: The Ggantija Temple Complex On Gozo

Some highlights from the temple complex at Ggantija, c. 3,500 BC...
Drone view...helpful model #456,289; five apses on the left, four on the right

Approaching, dorsal view

It's warm and sunny; not that bad, but we're taking refuge under a carob tree

Approaching

Heritage Malta has done a wonderful job in displaying these sites and in
permitting access to them

So the thing here, if you're expecting Stonehenge, is that the rock is limestone;
it is easily worked; but it is easily weathered


One of the apses



One of the entry ways, looking back: finely worked orthostats


A wall in some danger of collapse; buttressed until they figure out how to save
it

How the ancients moved and set the gigantic stones is a mystery; some
theorize they used spherical stones, much like ball-bearings

Such stones appear in abundance at the various sites

Another apse

Another mystery is the holes in the big rocks...gigantic
cup-marks?


And then there are these "rooms," post and lintel, finely worked; we'll see more
of such at the Hypogeum, in a few days



Malta, 4: Museum Of The Ggantija Temples Of Gozo

For Ggantija read Gigantic, that is, made by giants. That's what the locals made of these megaliths, 5 millennia later, just as the classical Greeks thought the Mycenean strongholds they found had been built by a race of giants. The temple complex at Ggantija is perhaps Malta's oldest, reckoned as dating from 3,500 BC, and therefore a good bit older than, say, Stonehenge. The dates on all these things keep changing. I always think of our experience at Skara Brae, where, at the outset of our ranger-led tour, she announced we could simply add a thousand years to all the dates on the signage: a new calibration was in effect. Anyhow, from Malta to Portugal to Brittany to Ireland and the UK and beyond, western Europe was seeing its great three millennia of megalith building. We've seen most of these structures. Those that are so far known. Malta's are among the most distinctive and interesting: oriented uniformly to the southeast, clover-leaf in design, with "apses," now generally thought to have been roofed-over in corballed fashion. Some say they were "temples" in a fertility rite...corpulent female votive offerings here and there. Who knows?

Anyhow, the Ggantija complex has a great museum preceding the self-guided tour, and here are some highlights.
Entrance to the complex; yes, another of Malta's World Heritage Sites

The megalithic world...in Malta

One of the more famous of the corpulent figures

Other votives...reminding me a little of Cycladean
figurines we've seen elsewhere in the Mediterranean


Probably not non-stick

A selection of the ladies found at Ggantija


Also found at Gantija

Extrapolation

Simple foods, simply prepared; strangely, very strangely,
seafood play virtually no role in their diet (like the Vikings
in Greenland?)

More implements

And ornamennts

The complex at Ggantija has suffered much destruction, even in the modern era;
much of what is known comes from a series of watercolors by the early 19th
century German artist Charles Frederick de Brocktorff



















Orthostat from one of the entrances