Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Lima, 2

More not quite random pix of Lima...
National drink of Peru: remember, if you're old
enough, Juicy Fruit chewing gum; imagine, if
you can, making it into a carbonated beverage;
add a couple tablespoons of sugar per 330ml;
Coca Cola was so threatened by Inca Cola,
which dates from 1935, it upped the sugar
content of its beverage; and finally bought 20%
of Inca Cola; comes in sugar-free version; not
recommended

Urban sprawl creeping up the mountain

Very important building in historic district

French embassy? We never did find out

Estadio Nacional; it actually loomed over our hotel; there was a
game on our first night there; the thunderous roars of the crowd,
palpable even, continuing on into the wee hours...

Our hosteria, despite its other defects, was
overly decorated in folk stuff





I particularly liked the three wise guys



Looming

Juggling for tips at an intersection; we saw this in Santiago, too

Inca Cola delivery trike

More tuk-tuks here than in India; and throughout Peru, too

Major thoroughfare out in the burbs


















































































Rio Rimac, Lima's major water source

Down-river from Lima, thankfully

The Queen of Heaven looks on

At the airport, varieties of coca candy
Another huge, decentralized ciity



The Estadio Nacional; our hosteria was just the other side of
it















Swinging out over the Pacific before turning
to higher, much cooler Arequipa, in the Andes

Museo Larco: Dinner And A Sex Museum

The restaurant at Museo Larco is as inviting as any we've seen. Irresistible, actually. It was right next to the collection of sexual artifacts which is kept separate from the main collection.
Part atrium, part opening onto the garden

Having sworn off pisco sours, I am here having a coca sour; a pisco sour with two
coca leaves; coca leaves, which I have since been chewing, and coca tea taste
nothing at all like Coca Cola

My Inca salad...substituting steak for alpaca (I'd be ordering alpaca a few days
later, obviously under the effect of the altitude)

Vicki's steak paillarrd with spaghettini of spinach, cheese, and basil

Lucuma mousse, utterly new and delicious 

Being a family museum, the sex collection is off to the side; but very crowded



Sort of liked this

"I fart in your general direction!"

Everybody's doin' it... (apologies to Irving Berlin)

Add caption: best suggestion gets to be guest blogger; Tawana
wins..."somebody needs viagra!"



Not Khajuharo, but still interesting

Museo Larco: The Collection

Rafael Larco Herrera was born into a wealthy plantation family. He studied agriculture at Cornell University, but returned to Peru to find his father had acquired a trove of apparently Incan ceramics. Then another trove. It was the Golden Age of Grave Robbing in South America. Anyhow, the artifacts interested Rafael greatly and, at length, he proposed the family create a museum to house them in Lima. The family agreed, appointed Rafael director (1926), and then things got interesting. Examining and classifying the artifacts--more troves were arriving--Rafael noticed they were not all cut from the same cloth. Subject matter, technique, material, shape, use, origin, all varied greatly. Rafael turned archaeologist/art historian at this point and took to the field. What he found convinced him that the Incas had been preceded by several, if not many, advanced cultures in Peru and its neighbors. Larco's classification scheme for these various cultures, I understand, is still in use. Museums are more often thought of as mere repositories of culture and knowledge. The Larco has it the other way around, too, a source of discovery.
Our founder

I won't attempt to describe all these things, which culture/place
they are from, etc. 


Paleo, obviously

Ceramics implements

Definitely Incan



Quipus, as close as they got to writing

Textile implements

Textiles

Painting attempting to show how Charles V
was the legitimate king of the Incas

Charming ways to kill people: #1, throw them off boats

#2, throw them off mountains

#3, slit their throats

Throat-slitting implements

Pre-Incan Conehead

Trepanation implements: never, ever tell the shaman you have
a headache (look it up)

Gold, lots of gold that didn't make it to Seville, Toledo, Madrid


Gold was pretty much for ornamentation of
the rich and famous; symbol of authority...
gold=sun=Inca king=son of sun...


So you think you're done; but then you notice you've covered
just half the building; the other half 
is open too and consists
of room after room 
of items not in the display collection...
thousands, hundred of thousands, all open to view



Plus, the Larco has a satellite facility, the
Pre-Columbian Museum, in Cusco