Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Lake Titicaca: Uros People And Floating Islands

Our Lake Titicaca tour included two stops, the first being to one of "floating islands," still inhabited by the Uros people, an indigenous group that came from the east centuries ago. They built "floating islands" in the lake, out of reeds and their roots--you have to see this to believe it--enjoying the ability to pull up stakes (literally) and move away from danger. At length, they adopted the indigenous Aymara language and speak it today. The Aymara are mainland folk with whom the Uros traded and intermarried. There are some few dozens of floating islands, some housing 10 or so families, some as few as 2 or 3. The traditional lifestyle has continued, in part, despite the encroachment of Incas, Conquistadors, and 21st century tourists. I suspect the 21st century will finally do them in. The Uros language was dead even before the Incas.
On Lake Titicaca, looking back towards bit of Puna, population
250,000

Arriving on our island; the Uros alternate islands vitis, both to
share the proceeds but also to minimize the impact on the island
itself

Our vessel, the Cap 40 Max

"Our" island comprised 6 families

Four of the ladies of the island welcome us

Everything is made out of these totora reeds

Our tourist group


































































































And faster than you can say "That'll be 20 Soles ($6.50) each,"
we all pile into this reed catamaran for a little cruise around
the island and its nearest neighbor; propulsion is by pole...it's
very shallow water here

The nearest island, which turned out to be the regional
kindergarten

Aboard the catamaran

Kindergarten Island

Kindergarten boat

Reeds; the white is a staple of their diet

Demonstration of reed-eating

Vicki bravely tries a sample; tasted like mild apple, she said

Looking back to the home island

Instructional aid

And now a demonstration of how the island is made, of reeds
and their roots, pegged down in the shallow water



Evidence of Disney's total market penetration, world-wide

Display of textile goods made on the island


Model boat from the gift shoppe; these tourist visits and
purchases are the cash crop for these people; they otherwise
live off the land and lake; so one doesn't mind spending a few
soles to help them maintain the lifestyle they obviously want

Interior of a cabin; I counted 8 solar panels on the island

Potato garden

Back on the lake, en route to Taquile Island (I thought it was
going to be Tequila Island; only later did I figure out what a
"spit boat" was and why it went so fast

Chivay To Puno

So we took the tourist bus...interpretation, stops to see sights...from Chivay to Puno and Lake Titicaca. Only there aren't many sights, and the weather was pretty inclement much of the way. At 12,500 feet, Puno is the highest we'd be sleeping, but we were pleased to be in a really nice hotel, with heat.
The morning of our departure we could see the mountains quite well
















Including Ampato, now clad in snow, and Sabancayo, still smoking ominously
















Ominously; at least blowing the other direction today















Leaving Chivay















Higher up, snow

Wintry mix

Last sight of Chivay and Colca Valley


No one wanted to stop at the mirador or look at the cairns at
15,000 feet

Now we are on the altiplano...really, really high plains of the
mid-Andes

No lack of truck traffic

Flamingo at 14,000 feet

Assorted camelids

Baby camelid

Passing through Juliaca, which wins the prize for ugliest city
(300,000) in Peru

At least they have handsome fiberglass shell tuk-tuks for taxis

We were just glad to get to our room at the Hacienda Puno, although the next
day's tour operator had left a message for us to be ready for pick-up at 7AM

Colca Canyon

Depending on which tourist destination you favor, there is disagreement about which canyon in Peru is the world's deepest. Colca is the traditional choice. But all of them are V-shaped, and picking the high point, with all the high mountains around, can seem rather arbitrary. However you slice it, Colca is about twice the depth of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. But the latter is more impressive and picturesque than Colca by about the same factor. We can say that confidently now.
The plan was to stop a mile or so short of Cross of the Condors,
and walk to the mirador there

Terrain across the canyon

Cross of the Condors mirador

Looking downstream into Colca Canyon

There were wispy clouds down low, but nothing obstructive

Closer up

Our path

Looking back upstream



Us, there, about 12,000 feet

A little waterfall across the way, probably 600-800 feet...


The condors put on quite a show

Certainly the best condor shot I'll ever get; will magnify and
crop later when I have learned more of GIMP 2.8 [click to enlarge]

One of several miradors; there's a condor, dead-center up,
wowing the crowd




Cross of the Condors

Right here we are 1,200 meters above the river, and the canyon
top is said to be 3,200 meters above the river

Colca Canyon