Sunday, October 9, 2016

Basilica of St. Julian of Brioude

We were attracted next to the small town of Brioude, still in Auvergne, by the prospect of seeing a large Romanesque basilica and also by the promise of another free aire de camping-cars. The aire was great; it even had an elevator to the upper town. But the church was another knock-out: 11th-13th century, beautiful stone, great colors, Romanesque throughout, frescoes and mosaic, pantokrators, a narthex for the Santiago pilgrims, and more corbels and capitals than even I could take in. There really aren't very many Romanesque churches of any size to look at. I'll have to do a long post on St. Julian's Basilica. And then one on its corbels and capitals.
West facade




















Up closer
















View of port bow; pretty Romanesque, no?
















Up closer...scores of corbels
















South door




















Hardware
















Outside, Vicki  noted the more recent paving left two grave sites recognizable

















Nave view; note the colors of the different stones...
















Some of the pillars and columns still showing paint





















Thus; St. Julian's apparently didn't get the memo from St.
Denis  about pointy architecture





















Large mosaic floor throughout




















Much of the stone volcanic




















Vierge a L'Oiseau, 14th century




















Near the altar, floor of the earlier Carolingian church
















Pantokrator presiding over the altar
















Crossing, as it were
















Elevation




















Port aisle
















Stairway leading to the narthex and the chapel of St. Michel 





















Vicki edging up the thousand year old stairs




















In the chapel, unbelievable frescoes































Going to Hell, in the Judgement scene
















Great Pantokrator
















Looking from the chapel to the spare parts room of the
gallery; what an experience! We spent both an afternoon
and the next morning admiring St. Julian's Basilica




















Montpeyroux

One of the guides for our visits in France has been the book and website Les Beaux Villages. And so it came to pass that on August 18th, having had enough volcanoes and shopping in Clermont-Ferrand, and guided by Les Beaux Villages, we drove on to the pretty little village of Montpeyroux. An assortment of pix follow...














Temple Of Mercury

In the second century CE the Romans built a temple to the god Mercury atop Le Puy de Dome. For centuries it was thought to be the remains of a Roman fort, but in the 19th century was finally recognized as a temple. Clermont-Ferrand (Augustonemetum) even in Roman times was a major Gallo-Roman city, a crossroads in Gaul, of which Lyons was capital. The French have undertaken a reconstruction of the temple, and there is an excellent little museum also on the broad summit. Mercury is the god of travelers and is thus especially revered in our household (RV-hold?)
Love the old signs
















Some of the extensive remains
































More...the museum is behind, in a meteorological station




















19th century conception of what it looked like























A bit of contemporary perspective




















Roman road marker..says "Don't mess with Rome"; wait, no




















OK, it's a mile marker




















After the long tribute to Emperor Claudius, it says
Augustonemetum is 21,000 steps down the road; makes you
appreciate today's road signs



Some background




















Statuette of the god Mercury, a votive offering found nearby





















Patron saint, I mean god, of travelers, among other things





















A bit of the reconstruction
















Ultimate plan