Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Encore plus out-takes de Paris

Historian Rachel noted that our apartment was
only a few blocks from the site of the infamous
Roquette prisons (his 'n hers; now replaced by
a park and an apartment block) and its even more
infamous guillotine























The five foundation stones of which have been left in the
street to mark the spot...
















Which reminds me that a few days later we took P and parents
to La Defense and saw the above Guillotine a Saucisson at a
cooking specialty store

















Jeremy and P pose before Cesar's Thumb




















Unusual rear view of the Thumb with the
Grand Arch in the background





















P loved to drive the #1 Metro line to La Defense and back















And make scones with Grandma















Interesting sign in the nearby park we often took her to















In the historic districts there are more plaques and markers
than one can read...here, Thomas Paine, "English by birth,"
"American by adoption," "French by decree" 

















His next door neighbor, a century+ later















Ducks in a row at Buttes-Chaumont















Snipping herbs for a repas















P portrait by Grandma after doing her hair; next to her chart
showing when Maman and Papa would return from
Barcelona

















After the long cruise and 9 weeks in Paris, Grandpa has
added a few pounds
















Three generation R&R after a brutal day of shopping in Paris

Friday, July 18, 2014

Jardin d'Acclimatation

Tuesday we took Penelope to the Bois de Boulogne, and specifically, its Jardin d'Acclimatation. The Bois de Boulogne is a long story--it is Paris' 2nd largest public park (Vincennes is larger), and thus one of the world's great urban parks--we thought we might take a lot of it in on a days's visit, but concluded rather quickly it would take more like a week. Next time. The Jardin d'Acclimatation started as a zoo, and even included a human zoo (imagine...), but, in the last century, it has been primarily a children's pleasure park. It is immense, larger than any I have seen that are strictly for children, and includes features and attractions too numerous to mention. We spent the better part of a day and barely scratched the surface.
The Bois de Boulogne is nestled between western Paris and
La Defense, just to the north; Camping Paris Ouest is located
in the the Bois de Boulogne, and we have camped there many,
many times, from 1979 to 2009; but never spent any time
looking at the park itself; another visit...





















A huge, diverse, children's place















Just inside, the misting from the ground gets
P's attention; later it would be a major struggle
getting her out of them and drying her off





















It's not Disneyworld, but then you're never very far from you
know where
















There are many, many, many rides, all for
children, but mostly for children over one
meter in height, or more; and pricey, too





















We explored the place for an hour or so--mostly the rides--
then had another picnic lunch; and then P again burst  into
song...

















A rhinoceros ride settled her down















It was to be another day of a very late nap















Feral, but kid-savvy peacocks roam the place















In the Franco-Prussian War, after the
Emperor was captured and surrendered at the
Battle of Sedan, Paris held out and underwent
a brutal siege; for months pigeons from this
tower were its only means of communication
with the outside world (there was the
occasional, very risky, hot-air balloon, too);
after the city's surrender, Prussian troops
quartered in the Bois de Boulogne



























Soon to open, the Louis Vitton Foundation at the Bois de
Boulogne; at first, I thought it was a parody of Frank Ghery's
magnificent Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao; no, it's no
parody; designed by Gehry himself; will be magnificent, too


















Everything literally under the shadow of La Defense















Among the newer rides















Penelope's favorite, undoubtedly, was the huge misting/
spraying field--a soft compound floor with jets spraying mist
and sprinkling all over, a basketball court and a half; nice
for a warm day

















But she was also pretty captivated by the Guignol puppet
theater next door; the Guignol puppet tradition goes back
to the 18th century; the place was packed

















Enthralled; despite (presumably) not understanding a word
of it; it relies heavily on audience participation, and she could
thus get into the spirit of the thing via the responses of the
other children...or maybe she has just learned a lot of French
already

















Thus; traditional Guignol has a working-class and moralistic
orientation...fairness, etc.
















More characters appear















The villain, who explains his nefarious intentions in detail to
the audience...eliciting boos and other disapprovals















Smack! The villain gets his due
















After morality plays, a good trampoline session is always in
order
















We eschewed the camel rides















Opting instead for a couple of the kiddie rides for which P
was tall enough...here, of course, the train
















And here, wisely, the taxi (an Uber?), as a passenger...
"faster, Rudolfo, faster!"...although she and the driver did
get into a disagreement about who could blow the horn;
all-in-all, it was a pretty great day, although exhausting
for both child and grand-parents


Tuesday, July 15, 2014

La quatorzième de juillet

So we have read that the French don't refer to it as Bastille Day--violent and unseemly connotations, you know--rather, the 14th of July. OK. D'accord. Anyhow, our Bastille Day started as we were getting ready to leave the apartment for our visit to the Parc de Buttes Chaumont: jets thundering above, part of the air show that accompanies the military parade on the Champs Elysees. (The turning point in the taking of the Bastille was when the army troops arrived and decided to support the Revolution). Clearly it was a holiday...the big stores closed, the thin-margin stores open, the restaurants and cafes and such all open. Quiet in the morning, but then getting more crowded as the day wore on. Our next indication of the national holiday was when we walked into the subway station...
and began noticing all the signs about line and station closures that evening





...and then when we left the Parc Buttes-Chaumont, and found the 19th
Arrondissement Mairie bedecked with flags and military vehicles from the
parade arriving en show
















P was impressed with all the big vehicles















All named for famous battles















All-terrain, high mobility vehicle



























Snow camo?




















Anyhow, we felt relatively safe (greater Paris registers 9 (nine) violent
crimes a day, so we feel pretty safe anyway)





















After a late nap and dinner, we boarded bus #69 at Place Leon Blum, hoping to
take it as usual all the way to the Champ du Mars and from there watch the fireworks
extravaganza from the Trocadero and the Tour Eiffel; alas, at the Louvre, the bus
driver announced it was the end of the line and we all had to get off



















Happily, we could see the Tour Eiffel sparkling and twinkling from there, the
beginning of the Tuileries, so we just found a place to sit


















Enjoyed the sights















Munched on our pastry snacks















And waited for the show to begin















And then, a few minutes past 11, it did begin















Grandma was handling the camera during the fireworks and didn't get many stills, 
but she did get some great video ofthe 2014 Bastille Day fireworks in Paris, to be 
seen shortly at http://youtu.be/309Slekqc5Y


















We were concerned about the crowds and transportation--500,000 were expected
on the Champs de Mars that evening--so we left a few minutes early and caught
the #1 Metro back home, P driving us all the way...a great Bastille Day and July
14th!