Saturday, June 14, 2014

Plus out-takes

Sellin' baguettes, hand over fist, near the Marche d'Aligre; they were all gone
a few minutes later

A foosball game--as we Americaines might call it--in a public park in Saint-Antoine,
one of two; not vandalized
Lady on stilts at Marche d'Aligre




















Closer up




















Kid-shaped hamburger patties




















Cafe Purple...somewhere in the 11th


Le mort d'un pigeon, episode trois; la mort de pigeons!; OK, it's a running gag;
sort of















Gendarmes gearing up near the Bastille; turns out they were probably an escort for
QE2, who was in town















Another secluded alley in Saint Antoine
















This in an alley leading to a warehouse, in the10th





















Clean-up after a neighborhood market















Adjacent to the Bibliotheque Nationale















By the Metro at Denfert Rocherau, an Aussie restaurant (!); which occasions the
following digression: I have diligently researched the matter and discovered that
Paris, the gastronomic and taste capital of the world, has no New Zealand
restaurant; it has Senegalese and Ivory Coast and restaurants of every other nation
and culture one can imagine; Parisians and visitors are thus missing an important
cuisine and ingredients...Bluff oyster, whitebait, green lip mussels (God, how they
are missing these!), great lamb, and some of the world's better sauvignon blancs
and other wines; not to mention authentic Maori cooking, Polynesian flavors and
techniques; someone of means and imagination needs to found ...Le Kiwi...I would
be pleased to advise...and taste...



























Checking out the action over at the Bibliotheque Nationale















One last look at the Vespacienne on Boulevard Arago...I think it needs to be moved
now to the historical museum of Paris, the Carnavalet; isn't it amazing how you live
somewhere merely for a month and already have all these wonderfully great ideas
and suggestions?!
















Une promenade dans le 13ème et 14ème arrondissements, avec un arrêt à la bibliothèque nationale

Our Friday walk had some obscure goals: the purchase of an obscure souvenir and the finding of an obscure, not to say, unique, sight. The former took us into the 13th, with an enjoyable side-trip to the impressive national library, and the latter further into the 14th, through more areas not likely seen by tourists.
Our first stop was at one of the offices of the Paris water works, where they sell
marvelous carafes for each of the 20 arrondissements; we thought an 11th
arrondissement carafe would be cool...


















Alas, the boutique was closed ("c'est exceptionnel!"), but we did get to look
at an interesting display of cartoonists' takes on water pollution

















Thus; flippable art; most of it not very kind to the US, but
then, what did you expect?





















We moved on to the vast Bibliotheque Nationale Francois
Mitterand, another exemplar of new architecture and new
Paris, where we hoped to reconnoiter the Ete 14 exhibit for
future visitors























In the bookstore, the audio version of Proust's In Search of  Lost Time has been
marked down
















Does the Library of Congress have an espace pique-nique?















Raisinettes, anyone? In the concession area of one of the mega-theaters adjoined
to the library; note the neon display, unthinkable in the US

















Outside view; the whole area has been raised 3-4 stories above the original ground
















The entire complex consists of 4 sky-scrapers (here are two
them), with connecting multi-level buildings, all surrounding
a sizable little forest






















Another of the BNF towers




















On the plaza, looking at more of the amazing architecture















Walking further on, under an elevated Metro we later took
from Denfert Rocherau back to Nation





















And the 19th century Ionic capitals on its piers 















They love jazz here, always have















And Satchmo gets a very nice little park among the high-rises
















Now walking on the beautiful Boulevard Arago















By all manner of interesting shoppes...here The Little Prince
boutique
















And past the vast, historic La Sante prison 















Finally reaching our goal--"our quest is at an end"--the last,
the very last, of Paris' famous pissoirs, or Vespaciennes, as
they are more properly called; dating from 1841; we think
this is not Art Nouveau; someone else characterized it as
the Smell Epoche

Friday, June 13, 2014

Canal saint martin au parc de la Villette

Thursday's walk took us from the Place de la Republic, at the intersection of the 2nd, 3rd, 10th, and 11th arrondissements, all the way out to the end of the 19th, at the Parc de la Villette, much of it along the Canal St. Martin and its assorted quays, basins, tributaries, off-shoots, and extensions. Although its first few kilometers are largely underground, the Canal emerges near the Place de la Republic and then continues on several more out in the open, becoming Paris's other waterfront. Although it was a seriously commercial enterprise when it first opened, in the 19th century, it is now largely scenic and recreational in nature. Along the way were also the 17th century Hospital Saint-Louis, the Hotel du Nord, La Rotonde, and much more. The huge Parc de la Villette was fairly stunning, visually and intellectually--Jacques ("Jackie") Derrida was consulted for its design, and it is an exemplar of Deconstructivist architecture--and I am pretty sure we'll be returning to it.
The canal shortly after it emerges from under ground; low tide





















For the next several kilometers, it's surrounded by parks, gardens, recreational areas,
beautiful Art Nouveau bridges and grill work, etc.; high tide

















Entrance to Paris' second hospital, Saint-Louis















One of its older bits; of course there are much newer bits too, but that's not
what you come to see
















Hotel du Nord, setting of an extremely famous movie I have not seen
and probably will never see... (look it up)





















Thus




















La Rotonde de la Villette--a late 18th century entry to the city where taxes on
goods were to be paid; now, of course, a restaurant; sic transit, Gloria 

















From here, roughly, Place de la Stalingrad Metro station, the canal opens out
to become the Bassin de la Villette, with assorted water sports, rides, etc.

















And swans; and at length you get to the Parc de la Villette















If you visit the Parc Villette, be prepared to dispense with any notions you may
have about what a park should be; also to reflect on what a "park" should be in
a 21st century hyper-urban setting


















On the left, the humongous Center for Science and Industry, Europe's largest such
museum; and the Geode, the world's largest screen and IMAX theater

















Yes, there are some conventional kiddie rides















And acres of less conventional kiddie rides















Along one of main boulevards















The park encompasses a great variety of cultural institutions,
not least France's Conservatory of Music and Dance
















The Grand Hall; la Villette was Paris' stockyards and abbatoir in earlier times;
the main hall has bee re-done, but is still a vast industrial sort of thing; the Parc
de la Villette warrants a closer look and a separate post later on; was it Derrida
who said the only real place in the US was Disneyworld? Well, no, I think
it was Baudrillard, but that's close enough...