Thursday's walk took us from the Place de la Republic, at the intersection of the 2nd, 3rd, 10th, and 11th arrondissements, all the way out to the end of the 19th, at the Parc de la Villette, much of it along the Canal St. Martin and its assorted quays, basins, tributaries, off-shoots, and extensions. Although its first few kilometers are largely underground, the Canal emerges near the Place de la Republic and then continues on several more out in the open, becoming Paris's
other waterfront. Although it was a seriously commercial enterprise when it first opened, in the 19th century, it is now largely scenic and recreational in nature. Along the way were also the 17th century Hospital Saint-Louis, the Hotel du Nord, La Rotonde, and much more. The huge Parc de la Villette was fairly stunning, visually and intellectually--Jacques ("Jackie") Derrida was consulted for its design, and it is an exemplar of Deconstructivist architecture--and I am pretty sure we'll be returning to it.
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| The canal shortly after it emerges from under ground; low tide |
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For the next several kilometers, it's surrounded by parks, gardens, recreational areas,
beautiful Art Nouveau bridges and grill work, etc.; high tide |
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| Entrance to Paris' second hospital, Saint-Louis |
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One of its older bits; of course there are much newer bits too, but that's not
what you come to see |
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Hotel du Nord, setting of an extremely famous movie I have not seen
and probably will never see... (look it up) |
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| Thus |
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La Rotonde de la Villette--a late 18th century entry to the city where taxes on
goods were to be paid; now, of course, a restaurant; sic transit, Gloria |
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From here, roughly, Place de la Stalingrad Metro station, the canal opens out
to become the Bassin de la Villette, with assorted water sports, rides, etc. |
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| And swans; and at length you get to the Parc de la Villette |
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If you visit the Parc Villette, be prepared to dispense with any notions you may
have about what a park should be; also to reflect on what a "park" should be in
a 21st century hyper-urban setting |
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On the left, the humongous Center for Science and Industry, Europe's largest such
museum; and the Geode, the world's largest screen and IMAX theater |
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| Yes, there are some conventional kiddie rides |
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| And acres of less conventional kiddie rides |
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| Along one of main boulevards |
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The park encompasses a great variety of cultural institutions,
not least France's Conservatory of Music and Dance |
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The Grand Hall; la Villette was Paris' stockyards and abbatoir in earlier times;
the main hall has bee re-done, but is still a vast industrial sort of thing; the Parc
de la Villette warrants a closer look and a separate post later on; was it Derrida
who said the only real place in the US was Disneyworld? Well, no, I think
it was Baudrillard, but that's close enough... |
