Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Une journée dans la 5ème et 6ème arrondissements

Sunday we spent in the 5th and 6th arrondissements, heading for an important rendezvous, but taking time for a little sight-seeing along the way.
We got off the Metro at Place Monge and immediately found ourselves in a
good neighborhood
















A few minutes' walk took us to the Pantheon, and adjacent to
it, the church of St. Etienne du Mont (we'll see the Pantheon
later)





















Knave view of this very interesting 16th century
Flamboyant/Renaissance church





















What you come here to see, if you're merely into art and architecture and
history, is the beautifully-carved stone rood screen, the last surviving in Paris

















There's also the 1631 organ case, oldest in Paris















A bit of the unusual elevation, with catwalks and gangplanks















In the chancel















Among other worthies buried here is the philosopher Pascal,
famous, among other things, for his Wager (look it up); he lost





















More of the screen















If you're devout, you come here for the remains and relics of 
St. Genevieve, patron saint of Paris; her remains and relics 
were tossed into the sewers of Paris in the Revolution, but, 
of course, miraculously found and put back together
























Moving right along, we walked again through Luxembourg Gardens
















Past many other interesting sights















Including the weekly roller skate parade through the Latin Quarter















To holy ground for philosophers and writers, on the Boulevard Saint Germaine
















And a wonderful rendezvous with Marc and Pat Johnson at Les Deux Magots;
Marc was chair of the Idaho Humanities Council and then chair of the board of
the Federation of State Humanities Councils, all during my time in the humanities
in Montana; a great friend and a real public servant; so good to see them here in
Paris

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Le Marmottan Monet Musée

Saturday, after visiting the local market, Boulevard Charonne, we finally got to the Marmottan Monet Museum, the largest collection of Monet works, and also of Berthe Morisot works, but also presently featuring an exhibit of many Impressionist paintings from private collections around the world. Les impressionistes en privee. The place was packed--Saturday afternoon, duh--but certainly delivered both on the fame and quality and extensiveness of the collections. This was a no fotos place, and, in view of the crush of humanity, etc., we pretty much complied. Pretty much.
On the way, Place de la Nation, a view I like very much















Musee Marmottan Monet















One Vicki really liked 















Bras de Seine a Giverny--one we both really liked




















Impression, soleil levant--the picture that gave Impressionism its name; well,
a hostile critic helped; Monet had spent 1870-71 in London and, no doubt, had
seen a few Turners; the Marmottan has a decent website and gallery, and much
else to look at...


















Journée dans le 16e arrondissement

Thursday we had planned an ambitious walk in the 16th, taking in sights there, concluding our quest for the Eau de Paris carafe we wanted, and finishing up with a visit to the Marmottan Monet museum and its exhibition of Impressionist paintings from private collections around the world. As we got finally to La Muette, close to the museum, the hour was late, our feet were tired, and we decided we'd save Impressionism for another day.
We Metro'd to the Passy bridge, now the Pont Bir-Hakeim
(a WWII battle in North Africa), which is Paris' only bridge
over the Seine to carry motor vehicles, trains, and pedestrians






















Also has some pretty nice sculpture















Some of the walk took us along the Allee des Cygnes, a former dike, now
beautifully landscaped and situated; out in the middle of the river

















On the Allee, looking back to the Viaduc de
Passy and a Metro crossing it; and the Eiffel
Tower





















A large river cruiser moored beneath the high-rises; a helium balloon with
tourist-laden gondola rises in the distance...
















We are not the only people taking pictures here















Exercise area under a bridge across the Allee















Complete with four rock-climbing walls















At the end of the island, the original model for the Statue
of Liberty





















At length, we got to the Pavilion of Water and its boutique of Eau de Paris
carafes and other goodies; the Pavilion is mostly a large and impressive
center for water and environmental education


















Resuming our walk...wait a second...we've been here before















Indeed, Castel Beranger, which we saw in 2012





















Still looking for a Hector Guimard tour of Paris, although I think we have seen
most of his stuff
















Le Camembert, French national radio headquarters















In Proust country still















Although it's Balzac's house we're close to















I read Pere Goriot when I was in high school; that was enough Balzac
















Admiring the architecture near La Muette















I don't think we're in Kansas anymore...















Friday was an administrative day, and that evening we entertained Janice, one
of Vicki's high school friends, who was passing through...

Friday, June 20, 2014

Une promenade dans les 8e et 17e arrondissements

Wednesday's walk, a reconnaissance really, was mostly in the 17th and 8th arrondissements, starting at the Arc de Triomphe, twisting and turning and ending after the Parc Monceau.
On Avenue de Wagram, the beautiful old Hotel Ceramic





















Thus; belongs in Barcelona















On Avenue des Ternes, the FNAC now occupies a late 19th century department
store
















With a beautiful glass ceiling way up there















Never miss an opportunity to visit a patisserie, Vicki says















The Alexander Nevsky Russian Church--open only on
Tuesdays and Fridays





















At the Russian restaurant across the street, also closed, you and your friend
can try the caviar and vodka sampler for only 390 euros (you can just round
that off at $500, tax and tip included); such a deal


















45 Boulevard de Courcelles, Proust family dwelling during
Marcel's years as a prig/fop/twit; no signage; now an embassy





















Nearly across the street, the Pagoda (available for weddings,
funerals, bar mitzvahs...)





















Now in Parc Monceau; the reconnaissance part















It is an old park, with many follies, etc.















Thus















Thus




















And thus; despite the pix, the place was packed, especially with kids and nannies
















And is not without historical interest















Thus, the first parachuting; the first lighter-than-air flight 
took place not far from here, in 1757, with the royals
looking on; I wonder whether the first parachuting was a
related event... 























The park is on the one-time periphery of Paris, and so here is the inevitable
rotunda, for collecting taxes on goods brought into the city