Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Venice: Museo Corrrer

We also visited the lesser known Correr Museum, mostly about Venice history, also in St. Mark's Square.

Canova's Deadalus and Icarus



















Veronese's Two Ladies Waiting (or maybe it
was Tintoretto or Bellini, or Norman
Rockwell)





















The outstanding piece, for us, was Breughel's Adoration of
the Magi; almost any Breughel for us is a treat; or Bosch; etc;
actually this piece should be called Winter Scene with a
Superfluous Reference to the Adoration of the Magi; which is
fine 



















Fortunately, the Florian is nearby; I did enjoy
the Correr, especially its paintings of the naval
battle of Lepanto (The Naval); but it was too
dark for pix and the guards were hovering...


Venice: San Giorgio

So one day we took the slow vaporetti around the big island and down to San Giorgio, the scenic little island with the big Palladio church and campanile that is one of Venice's more prominent sights.

San Giorgio from the campanile in St Mark's Square















Another relatively austere church interior, but
this time with one of the strangest--no, the
strangest--item of religious art we have seen
yet; the basin at the bottom blows holy vapor
which rises to the suck-tube in the dome






















The suck job in action; seems particularly
appropriate when you're relying on smoke and
mirrors anyway; besides, this "artistic"
installation has appeared already in South
America and Russia, which, I assume, makes
it OK, or at least ecumenical; seems to me it
would work for (Tibetan) Buddhism, Hinduism,
and others
























Alas, the Tintoretto Penultimate Supper had moved on (no
explanation given); this is a strange church















But there was at least this fine statue of St.
Gabby, patron saint of hustlers, rustlers, and
tusslers; "you're dern tootin'"




















And, on the same island, but closed when
we got there, was this interesting and
interestingly titled exhibit; we stop for
anything named "Penelope"; details at
http://www.cini.it/en/event/detail/1/544;
especially relevant for a child born on
Shakespeare's birthday

Monday, June 27, 2011

Venice: Murano

One of our excursions took us to the island of Murano, famous for its Venetian glass.
An entire symphony orchestra in glass















Murano centro, glass sculpture



















In an artisan's shop (we bought a Christmas ornament)















In the Glass Museum; a table setting in Murano glass (evidently
for royalty)















More traditional Murano glass in the museum















We have seen every manner of chesst set: Greeks vs. Persians,
Athenians vs. Spartans, Romans vs. Carthaginians, Romans
vs. Whomever, Christians vs. Moors...but here is the one I
would want (if I played chess): angels and devils; I have not
played chess since c. 1968, when Mel Ulm performed fool's
mate on me three times in a row; remember that, Mel?
c

Venice: Cruisin'

Some say Venice is best seen from the water. We did that, buying a 48 hour vaporetti (water bus) pass after wearing our legs out the first day. (Vaporetti = "your money vaporizes"; but just about anything in Venice is expensive). Here are some canal scenes.

A flotilla of gondoliers, one playing accordion, one singing; fortunately, we did 
that when it was much cheaper















The Palazzo Vendramin, where Wagner died in 1883; big plaque on the left















Grand Canal again















Venice ground zero















The Bridge of Huhs and beyond it, in the blue grotto, the Bridge of Sighs















Garbage truck; I will admit that it is nice to be in a place, however crowded, 
and not have to dodge cars, trucks, scooters, bicylces, and the like
















In addition to the vaporetti and water taxis, there are also these traghetto, which 
simply cross the Grand Canal here and there for a mere half euro
















We even rode out to boring Lido, using up our last few minutes...

Venice: Gallaerie dell'Academia (2)

[I accidentally deleted this post on January 9, 2021, but have recovered the pix, which are below. I'll add commentary in due course].

Venice has many art museums, of which the Galleries dell'Academia is perhaps most famous. Below are some of the works that most impressed us.












Venice: Campanile

We had never gone up in the Campanile, so we figured why not and it's only 8 euros. The views were spectacular. Plus there was an elevator.

St. Mark's Square















Panning around but avoiding ugly Mestre















San Giorgio island, where we'd go in another day or so















The little piazza off St. Mark's















Looking toward the duomo and beyond

Venice: St. Mark's Duomo

I had never seen a church like this when I first saw it in 1979, with all the late Byzantine mosaic and gold. I guess I have seen a lot of such churches since this, and a lot of mosaic. Better presented too. St. Mark's does not grow on you.
Exterior















Interior



















Angel



















One of several domes















Altar















Altarpiece















Another dome















One of the portal half-domes, well-lit (naturally)

Venice: Doge's Palace

So we took the train (4.80 euro round-trip) from Treviso to Venice. About an hour all-told, including the bus from the camperstop to the station in Treviso. I think we did three very full days in Venice on this basis. It was already warming up considerably (mid-June), and the place was crawling with tourists; as always.
But first, a word about Treviso, a beautiful little city, northwest
of Venice, but loaded with (merely scenic) canals, and a very
helpful TI and attitude toward campers (free camperstop)
















So here we are in Venice; we don't always try to wear matching
outfits, but with our limited wardrobe, it's inevitable...















Grand Canal: I am always reminded of the quip to an editor
"Arrived Venice. Streets flooded. Please advise."















Rialto Bridge















A bit down the road, as it were, St. Mark's Square; the usual
number of tourists, far less trash and pigeons than in years
past; the City of Venice now is apparently now "poisoning
the pigeons in the park," introducing pigeon birth-control
substance into the pigeon feed; a good thing 















Doge's Palace, off St. Mark's Square















Great Hall in the Doge's Palace; behind the backs of the
guards, I succeed in getting a foto of the place, including the
largest oil painting ever done, Tintorello's (or was it
Veronese?) last judgment; I tried for a second shot, but
she turned on me in an instant...


















Nevertheless, I still got this favorite shot: in the
hall are portraits of all the Doges (dukes); this
guy somehow betrayed the city (renegged a
Japanese tour bus contract or somesuch) and
has forever since had his portrait covered in
black























View of the Bridge of Sighs, from the Bridge
of Wows (or possibly the Bridge of Huhs or
the Bridge of Whys)





















View from the Bridge of Sighs to the Bridge
of Wows, etc.




















My favorite art work at the Palace of the Doges