Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Tivoli

Our campsite at the Piazzale del Cimiteri; the Piazzale del
Bus Stazione was on the other side of the intersection















Why we didn't stay at the designated camper-stop: it became
the market on Wednesday morning















Local Renaissance castle; closed for repairs















Looking north-west from Tivoli















Hill-towns dot the horizon; some hills are just towns















Looking west to Rome and Tiburtina, and nearly continuous
development















Including some of the largest quarries (travertine) I have ever
seen















And, immediately below, a ruined mini-Pantheon

Hadrian's Villa

We drove about 25 miles east of Rome, up slightly into the Appenine foothills, to the ancient town of Tivoli, one of the summer playgrounds of "elite" Romans of the classical era. The Piazza del Cimiterio in Tivoli afforded us free if occasionally noisy parking for three nights while we explored the area's major sights--Tivoli itself, Hadrian's Villa, and the Renaissance Villa d'Este.

Elite Romans had been moving to the countryside since the first century BCE, building villas and plantations and such ("Rancho Deluxe") to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big cities. Hadrian would count as an elite Roman: emperor early in the second century, presiding over the empire's greatest extent, a traveler, a general, a scholar, a lover of all things Greek. We have bumped into him at his Wall in Britain, his birthplace at Italica, near Seville, at battle sites in Romania, at his tunnel (diverting a river) near Antioch, all over Greece, and at his Forum and Column and Pantheon in Rome. He was the third of the Five Good Emperors, and, next to Augustus, I'd say, best of them all. Anyhow, his villa, near Tivoli, is certainly the biggest of them all, a city in itself, with a palace, guest quarters, three Baths, both Latin and Greek libraries, huge warehouses and administrator/servant/soldier quarters, and some of the most striking water features of the ancient world. I'll just post some of the better pix, without comment.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Ciao!

We reluctantly left Rome on Monday the 16th of May. Even after nearly four weeks for me, three for Vicki, and seven for the Grey Wanderer, it was hard to leave. Our camping situation at the Prato Smeralda, while not ideal, was at least secure and very cheap, and the commute into the Eternal City was a snap. And then there is Rome, with all its sights, major and minor, food and drink, and just the thrill of being in one of the world's oldest and still most vibrant cities. Our leaving was at least helped along by the decision to keep the Grey Wanderer in Europe, rather than shipping it back to the States this summer. We like our mode of travel very much and want to be able to continue it in Europe in future years.
Our place at Prato Smeraldo, camper-stop, -storage, -service















Giovanni's roses















We'll be back!

Porta Portese

For our last day in Rome we ventured out to the Sunday flea market at Porta Portese, near Trastevere, a walk along the Tiber, and associated sights.
The Tiber, the Island, and the 2,000 year-old Roman bridge















Sometimes the sights are just other people, other tourists,
including a young couple carrying a blow-up kangaroo down
the Via Lungoterre Anguillara
















They're from Australia (duh) and the roo's name
is Skip; "he goes everywhere with us"




















They simply close off one of the big boulevards for the weekly
Porta Portese market, it goes on and on, for nearly a mile, I
would guess; unfortunately, it's almost entirely the cheap crap
that most flea markets world-wide consist of nowadays; there
were a few items of interest nonetheless


















The Native American shoppe















The vege-matic shoppe; actually, multi-bladed scissors















The Americano license plate shoppe















And the army surplus shoppe















Vicki by the Piramide

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Capitoline Museum II

Reliefs like this beautiful example have
provided historians with many clues about
Roman history, architecture, et cetera





















Over-sized Mars, a very popular god with the
Romans




















The dying Gaul; a favorite subject in Hellenistic and Roman
art; but always executed with empathy















Muy importante: the Lex de Imperio
Vespasiani, a hugely important tablet,
historically, that set forth the roles, duties,
and rights of the emperor





















A beautiful marble Amazon (sans Kindle)



















Incredible things done with marble















Pink marble Dionysus



















In the Hall of the Philosophers (all bearded, of course) 















Capitoline Venus



















In the Tabularium, the archives of ancient Rome















And, after a modest dinner in the area, back to the Metro
Colosseo

Capitoline Museum I

Rome has a dozen or more world-class museums, and even on this more or less extended visit, we saw only a few. The Capitoline Museum is one of the great ones, and after considerable heavy editing, I will limit myself to just two posts on it.

Steps leading up to the Capitoline Hill, the Piazza
Campidoglio; the great Capitoline Museum flanks the Piazza















Inside, the great bronze statue of Marcus
Aurelius (and his horse); the largest equine
statue of antiquity





















Bust of an Amazon; winner of a scultpure
contest in Ephesus




















Beautiful marble caryatids



















Tablets listing consuls (the CEOs of the Republic) over the
centuries















The very, very famous 5th century BCE bronze she-wolf (the
twins are a Renaissance addition)

















Boy removing thorn from foot, also very famous



















Another Artemis from Ephesus, but a
particularly beautiful one




















The Emperor Commodus dressed as (his hero)
Hercules




















Fragment of the immense bronze sculpture of
Constantine that once stood in the Forum; a
hand and two feet also survive





















Interestingly, the Capitoline also has a fair
number of paintings, and not Roman; this is the
very famous and (to some) controversial self-
portrait of of Velazquez, who worked in Rome
for a time; I'm skipping the Caravaggio....